2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 02:17 PM
  #26  
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From: buffalo
Originally Posted by AARON-SS-TC
I will. I just dont think its a boost leak when my car boosts hard and quickly up to 25psi and holds it, but i guess anything is possible
It will still make full boost if its a small leak and you risk blowing the turbo from over spooling it. My car had no problem holding 26psi when i had a boost leak but the power felt laggy.
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 02:34 PM
  #27  
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Funny, thats exactly how my car is..when term tuned my car, it was awesome and pulled like a ****, then everyday it was slower and slower. Then i went to the track and only trapped 107 and ran a 13.2 on a perfect run, then i knew something was up...
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 03:25 AM
  #28  
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From: Kathmandu
We say it all the time because it's true most of the time: boost leaks happen a lot. Being able to test for boost leaks on a turbo car is an absolute must. It's just that common. Don't get too down on your car. You got it for a good price. Thrown the clutch and IC on the credit card and keep driving.
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 10:20 AM
  #29  
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From: Bradenton, FL.
No credit card for me, i wish it was that simple
i will be checking for the leak today after work, hopefully it is something simple
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 04:15 PM
  #30  
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From: Kathmandu
The leak won't fix your clutch problem, though. That's just your idle issue.
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 04:47 PM
  #31  
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i know this might not be your problem but i had a similar issue and replaced my evap purge solenoid and it ran better.

also how many miles are on your plugs? i just had a set of the ngk 3787 and they started fouling out after 10k miles. i just ordered a new set of ngk stockers and threw them in and its better once again.

i have 45k miles and i feel like you do sometimes lol (even have slipping clutch) but i just ordered a zzp stage 4 clutch so it looks like im stuck with the balt. now all i need is install money
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 05:34 PM
  #32  
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I put all new plugs and solenoid in before the tune to make sure they were good...guess i should have bought a clutch before the tune as well
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 05:38 PM
  #33  
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You could have bought a ky stage three or four and still had quite a bit for installment fees..
Originally Posted by lockdownlegend
i know this might not be your problem but i had a similar issue and replaced my evap purge solenoid and it ran better.

also how many miles are on your plugs? i just had a set of the ngk 3787 and they started fouling out after 10k miles. i just ordered a new set of ngk stockers and threw them in and its better once again.

i have 45k miles and i feel like you do sometimes lol (even have slipping clutch) but i just ordered a zzp stage 4 clutch so it looks like im stuck with the balt. now all i need is install money
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 06:06 PM
  #34  
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Luckily I only paid about 800 total for my KY Clutch and installation about a year ago... sad that I have to order another clutch already...
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 10:01 AM
  #35  
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From: Bradenton, FL.
You burnt up a ky clutch? And how did you get labor on another one so cheap?
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 11:21 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by AARON-SS-TC
You burnt up a ky clutch? And how did you get labor on another one so cheap?
na... didn't burn it up... let's just say everyone that bought one in my area.. about 10+ had to replace them with diff ones.... and the performance shop I went to... took 3 hours to do it so lol pretty much the pressure plates are garbage.
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 11:25 AM
  #37  
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Lol ^ pressure plate they used to use is the Sachs pressure plates which is the stock lnf plates.. lol... So calm down there. And also fact is we don't use those plates any longer...
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 11:31 AM
  #38  
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From: Bradenton, FL.
Oooh...WOW, THATS LIKE RECORD TIME for a clutch replacement huh?
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 02:34 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Chevycobaltss3
Lol ^ pressure plate they used to use is the Sachs pressure plates which is the stock lnf plates.. lol... So calm down there. And also fact is we don't use those plates any longer...
So basically I got robbed? mmmm
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 02:50 PM
  #40  
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Do the clutch swap yourself and save money. It's really not hard to do.
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 04:04 PM
  #41  
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It looked a lot harder than doing one on a honda, which is the only experience i have with clutches...i'd rather have it done right, then second guess myself and be bloody knuckled...lol
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 04:17 PM
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Yeah... I don't have the time to do it myself...
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 12:02 AM
  #43  
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From: Bradenton, FL.
neither do i, plus i am an assistant to an ortho dr., so i cant be coming in to work looking like a grease monkey like i used to back in the day...lol
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 12:49 AM
  #44  
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Ky stage 3 clutch with throwout bearing 475 shipped and order a boost leak tester from modern performance for like 20 and you can do the clutch yourself its not that hard aslong as your kinda mechanically inclined
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 12:52 AM
  #45  
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I went 74k on my clutch before it went its all about how you drive/shift properly and that's with A LOT of racing and yea I know a lot of people gonna think I got a lot of miles but I DD my car and done like 8-10 trips to nj and back plus a lot of track and street racing
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 12:54 AM
  #46  
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From nj to FL and back ****
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 02:24 AM
  #47  
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From: Kathmandu
I think that Hell is probably a lot like New Jersey.

Edit: Well............now that I think about it, Hell probably isn't THAT bad.
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 02:56 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by AARON-SS-TC
Funny, thats exactly how my car is..when term tuned my car, it was awesome and pulled like a ****, then everyday it was slower and slower. Then i went to the track and only trapped 107 and ran a 13.2 on a perfect run, then i knew something was up...
Yeap, exactly how my car got after a few weeks of owning it. Later found my MPx intercooler would get pushed back when my front end would scrape due to being lowered and it was cutting slits in my silicone couplers where they would get pushed against the sharp seam of the unibody frame.
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 04:35 PM
  #49  
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so before i was able to do my boost leak this morning, i blew the charge-pipe completely off. I have no reason why it came off again. I am using the ZZP hot pipe with the stock rubber couplers with them, but they are just not holding on with full boost...
after i took everything off and completely re-installed it to as tight as possible, it seems to be okay right now. I also reset the ecu because it instantly started idling worse than before, so i will drive it around the rest of the day to make sure all is good...i can't tell for sure, but it sounds louder around the turbo than before, hopefully it isn't shot too....the clutch is still shot though..2nd and 3rd is gone
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 07:17 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by AARON-SS-TC
so before i was able to do my boost leak this morning, i blew the charge-pipe completely off. I have no reason why it came off again. I am using the ZZP hot pipe with the stock rubber couplers with them, but they are just not holding on with full boost...
after i took everything off and completely re-installed it to as tight as possible, it seems to be okay right now. I also reset the ecu because it instantly started idling worse than before, so i will drive it around the rest of the day to make sure all is good...i can't tell for sure, but it sounds louder around the turbo than before, hopefully it isn't shot too....the clutch is still shot though..2nd and 3rd is gone
Have you done What atleast 5 people above have stated and boost leak tested? If you keep blowing off the charge pipes it is gonna effect the other piping. Also doesn't a company (mpx) make upgraded couplers for the charge pipes? Also not sure if this helps but I have a thread in the 08-10 general section about my issues that I was having at idle. I can't link it with my phone but it might be helpful. I took it in to the dealership because I have the 100k powertrain warranty and they said it was the exhaust camshaft actuator. They replaced it under warranty. It runs like a champ now. I'm stock though with 48k. The issue was only presents when I came to a stop and the car was idling. It would shake/shutter/ hesitate but then when I drive it would be fine. I never got on the car while it wasn't running right, something I suggest you stop doing. If the car isn't running right its prob not the best idea to be going wot and boosting it...just saying
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