Real knock or False knock?
#1
Real knock or False knock?
The past few weeks I've been having an issue with the car not boosting correctly or just feeling sluggish. Sent a log to term and he told me it might be a stuck WG or leaking BPV.
Couple of weeks ago, I went WOT, interceptor immediately jumps to 5.9 degrees of knock and I let off immediately. No matter what I did, it would jump to 4+ degrees of knock at WOT.
I go WOT last week, no knock and boost spikes 26 psi, falls to 24 psi and holds. Car runs great
Tried it again on Saturday, 2.9 degrees of knock at WOT but holding boost.
Now, from what I read on ZZPs website knock that jumps to a high degree instantly and doesn't get higher is false knock. I am getting a bit frustrated. I did a boost leak test and it came back fine. Will a faulty MAP sensor cause this?
I ask because, when I was putting on my Treadstone lower CP I ripped my old map Sensor O-ring and tried to seal the leak with RTV (probably not a good idea but I had to get my car working). Well i got a bit of the RTV on the Map sensor but cleaned it up.
Any thoughts would be great.
oh and btw my LTFT shift between 0 and +5ish
Couple of weeks ago, I went WOT, interceptor immediately jumps to 5.9 degrees of knock and I let off immediately. No matter what I did, it would jump to 4+ degrees of knock at WOT.
I go WOT last week, no knock and boost spikes 26 psi, falls to 24 psi and holds. Car runs great
Tried it again on Saturday, 2.9 degrees of knock at WOT but holding boost.
Now, from what I read on ZZPs website knock that jumps to a high degree instantly and doesn't get higher is false knock. I am getting a bit frustrated. I did a boost leak test and it came back fine. Will a faulty MAP sensor cause this?
I ask because, when I was putting on my Treadstone lower CP I ripped my old map Sensor O-ring and tried to seal the leak with RTV (probably not a good idea but I had to get my car working). Well i got a bit of the RTV on the Map sensor but cleaned it up.
Any thoughts would be great.
oh and btw my LTFT shift between 0 and +5ish
#4
The past few weeks I've been having an issue with the car not boosting correctly or just feeling sluggish. Sent a log to term and he told me it might be a stuck WG or leaking BPV.
Couple of weeks ago, I went WOT, interceptor immediately jumps to 5.9 degrees of knock and I let off immediately. No matter what I did, it would jump to 4+ degrees of knock at WOT.
I go WOT last week, no knock and boost spikes 26 psi, falls to 24 psi and holds. Car runs great
Tried it again on Saturday, 2.9 degrees of knock at WOT but holding boost.
Now, from what I read on ZZPs website knock that jumps to a high degree instantly and doesn't get higher is false knock. I am getting a bit frustrated. I did a boost leak test and it came back fine. Will a faulty MAP sensor cause this?
I ask because, when I was putting on my Treadstone lower CP I ripped my old map Sensor O-ring and tried to seal the leak with RTV (probably not a good idea but I had to get my car working). Well i got a bit of the RTV on the Map sensor but cleaned it up.
Any thoughts would be great.
oh and btw my LTFT shift between 0 and +5ish
Couple of weeks ago, I went WOT, interceptor immediately jumps to 5.9 degrees of knock and I let off immediately. No matter what I did, it would jump to 4+ degrees of knock at WOT.
I go WOT last week, no knock and boost spikes 26 psi, falls to 24 psi and holds. Car runs great
Tried it again on Saturday, 2.9 degrees of knock at WOT but holding boost.
Now, from what I read on ZZPs website knock that jumps to a high degree instantly and doesn't get higher is false knock. I am getting a bit frustrated. I did a boost leak test and it came back fine. Will a faulty MAP sensor cause this?
I ask because, when I was putting on my Treadstone lower CP I ripped my old map Sensor O-ring and tried to seal the leak with RTV (probably not a good idea but I had to get my car working). Well i got a bit of the RTV on the Map sensor but cleaned it up.
Any thoughts would be great.
oh and btw my LTFT shift between 0 and +5ish
#8
Need more info. Does the car constantly boost 26psi and falls to 24. Or does it change? Is boost not consistent? Are you familiar with what a wastegate does? Pretty dangerous **** for your motor. I would look into and fix all issues before you pound it. Then dump in the highest octane fuel yoi can get and get your tune re-logged.
I would assume all knock is real...
I would assume all knock is real...
#10
Need more info. Does the car constantly boost 26psi and falls to 24. Or does it change? Is boost not consistent? Are you familiar with what a wastegate does? Pretty dangerous **** for your motor. I would look into and fix all issues before you pound it. Then dump in the highest octane fuel yoi can get and get your tune re-logged.
I would assume all knock is real...
I would assume all knock is real...
The wastegate controls boost right? It reads the ECU commanded boost and adjusts to let excess exhaust gas out.
Omio, no. I have not taken it off.
#11
Need more info. Does the car constantly boost 26psi and falls to 24. Or does it change? Is boost not consistent? Are you familiar with what a wastegate does? Pretty dangerous **** for your motor. I would look into and fix all issues before you pound it. Then dump in the highest octane fuel yoi can get and get your tune re-logged.
I would assume all knock is real...
I would assume all knock is real...
#14
I was thinking about putting my stock PCM back in but I did a boost leak test yesterday and it sounds like my lower map sensor is leaking just a tiny bit. I could see bubbles. When i first put it all back together it was good so I wonder if the O-ring deteriorated more. I had ripped it when I tried to put it in the Treadstone CP that wasn't drilled correctly. I ordered the O-ring and am going to replace it on Friday when it comes in.
#15
Senior Member
Does your car still have a CAT and cat overtemp protection/fueling?
If so it might be over richening and knocking.
When it knocks do you recall the operating conditions of the motor? Anything consistent between each time it knocks? There are a lot of possibilities.
Timing adders for IAT for example. Did you floor it from a lower rpm than what you do when it didn't knock?
If so it might be over richening and knocking.
When it knocks do you recall the operating conditions of the motor? Anything consistent between each time it knocks? There are a lot of possibilities.
Timing adders for IAT for example. Did you floor it from a lower rpm than what you do when it didn't knock?
#16
Does your car still have a CAT and cat overtemp protection/fueling?
If so it might be over richening and knocking.
When it knocks do you recall the operating conditions of the motor? Anything consistent between each time it knocks? There are a lot of possibilities.
Timing adders for IAT for example. Did you floor it from a lower rpm than what you do when it didn't knock?
If so it might be over richening and knocking.
When it knocks do you recall the operating conditions of the motor? Anything consistent between each time it knocks? There are a lot of possibilities.
Timing adders for IAT for example. Did you floor it from a lower rpm than what you do when it didn't knock?
I only go WOT when the car is fully warmed up. so between 185ish to 190 temp. When I do go WOT, my interceptor hits a arbitrary number. One time is was 5.9 degrees of knock. The next week I got 0 knock when WOT, then last week it went to 2.9. I haven't done any WOT pulls since
and no. I only floor it above 3000 RPMs and never in 5th.
#17
Senior Member
Yeah, that rules out user error and cat over temp, I think.
Since the number doesn't change it's most likely false knock. As you probably know, real knock generally fluctuates and also disappears in the absence of knock. Are you able to modify you knock decay rate? I don't really think it would help in the case of false knock, but would in real knock as long as the real knock goes away.
Are there any unusual vibrations that you are aware of?
Since the number doesn't change it's most likely false knock. As you probably know, real knock generally fluctuates and also disappears in the absence of knock. Are you able to modify you knock decay rate? I don't really think it would help in the case of false knock, but would in real knock as long as the real knock goes away.
Are there any unusual vibrations that you are aware of?
#18
Yeah, that rules out user error and cat over temp, I think.
Since the number doesn't change it's most likely false knock. As you probably know, real knock generally fluctuates and also disappears in the absence of knock. Are you able to modify you knock decay rate? I don't really think it would help in the case of false knock, but would in real knock as long as the real knock goes away.
Are there any unusual vibrations that you are aware of?
Since the number doesn't change it's most likely false knock. As you probably know, real knock generally fluctuates and also disappears in the absence of knock. Are you able to modify you knock decay rate? I don't really think it would help in the case of false knock, but would in real knock as long as the real knock goes away.
Are there any unusual vibrations that you are aware of?
#19
Senior Member
Yeah. Driveline vibrations are a big culprit for false knock.
Some other cars have their knock sensors so close to the transmission that high rpm gear shifts can cause it too. But haven't seen that issue on the cobalt.
Some other cars have their knock sensors so close to the transmission that high rpm gear shifts can cause it too. But haven't seen that issue on the cobalt.
#21
Senior Member
The driveline vibrations started after you installed the intercooler, or the knock started afterwards?
When you installed the intercooler did you disconnect the battery?
When you installed the intercooler did you disconnect the battery?