alright i kinda feel like a ******* for even asking this but i got the switchable tune and for some reason i was under the impression that i use the "gt tuner" i was sent to datalog and send him the data and he emails it back to me and i retune it for my area is this true?? and if not i've got 3inch catless turbo back with injen cp and crazy steve ic what are my estimates?? i'm getting big pressure drop (like starts at 23-24 and by the time i shift it's 16-19) and i'm sure it's form the intercooler so i'm getting a synapsys (sp?) that's $450 (right?) and i was wonder would it help also i've got a cia sri on the way that's already tuned for j/w how much that would help. I know that was a lot but i appriciate the help

 

yah can someone please explain data logging.

 

Ok... let me see if I can help you guys out a little...

First, I recommend doing this with two people.... one to work the tuner and the other to drive the car. Next, make sure you find a nice open area with no traffic (you will be going wot... so be careful). What you will do is plug in your tuner that Vince send you... just as if you were going to upload a tune. However, when the tuner gets to the start screen you will press the lower left hand corner of the tuner screen (sometimes you will have to press and hold - depends on the tuner). This switches the tuner into 'data logging mode'.... Make sure you put a fresh sd card into the tuner and follow the prompts on the tuner screen. Basically you will press start... do a wot... and press done when finished. I usually do a 20 - 120 (2nd-4th) pull, but you can do whatever you want.... just make sure that you go wot... Once you are done, pull the files off the sd card and e-mail them to vince along with the run descriptions... other things you should try to include are temp, humidity, and elevation. You don't really need more then 3 runs for each tune... so it takes about 30 mins total. Vince will look at the logs and update your tune accordingly. You take the file that he sends, put it on your sd card, and reflash your car (same initial steps).... If you guys have any further questions, please ask...

 

SWEET!!! thanks a ton now... i got a note that says i can only keep the gt tuner for 7 days what do i do if i still waiting for a part that i ordered a while ago?? that should be here this or next week?? and would a new smaller fmic control my pressure drop better??

 

Write to angie and explain your situation... you may be ok, but that is something that will be Angie and Vince's call....

There shouldn't be much pressure drop across your stock fmic... is that the part you are waiting on?

 

i've got the crazy steve one cause my stocker broke but i'm still having trouble data logging i just tried it i have the s/d card and it's all connected correctly it connects when i wanna tune it but not data log

 

For tuning simply put the make sure that the tuner has the sd card that vince sent (if applicable) in it and press anywhere on the unit once it gets to the start screen... follow the directions that Vince included in the pelican case (behind the top foam)...

For data logging... keep the sd card that vince sent (if applicable) in the unit until the unit hits the start up screen. Then change the sd card out for your clean sd card. Press the left bottom corner of the start up screen... pressing anywhere else will put the tuner in 'tune upload' mode. Sometimes all you have to do is tap the left corner...sometimes press and hold... there are at least two different tuner modules that Vince uses and each one is a little different. If that doesn't work, e-mail Angie or Vince because you may have a different module then what I have seen....

 

mine didn't come with a sd card? so does that mean i can't data log?

 

Maybe check the dyno thread before you make claims that are FAR from true I have 2 parts and a tune, made over 300whp....And it was 70% humidity too...

 

And your times are? Oh, 13.2...hmmm... well based on general mathematical calculations you make 275 whp (check out a quater mile horsepower calculator - or I can supply a link if you like) .... And you have placed yours against a 2+ sti? And how did you do? Like I said... my dyno sheet compares very well to what is being seen at COBB which I think lends credence to the dyno and subsequent results, but that doesn't mean that a sti will dyno below 300 on every dyno.... In fact, many 2+ sti's dyno above 300+ on other dynos...

Like I said... every dyno is different... just because I saw 255 doesn't mean anything... just because you saw 300+ doesn't mean anything.... perhaps reading the entire thread and my entire statement will clear things up a little....

It all about getting a baseline so you can see where you at and then figure out what your mods are going to do from there ... Comparing my dyno to your dyno isn't even close to being accurate...

AJ... I sound like you have the first type of tuner that I worked with... It didn't come with a sd card either... but there was a slot in the bottom that you could put your sd card into for data logging. It looked kind of like one of those old palm pda's... That one was actually easier to work with... I plugged it in, let it connect, then pressed the corner of the screen when the start up screen came up to get to the data logging mode. If you are still having problems, contact Vince and he will send you instructions for your particular tuner... Yours may very well be different then the one I used...

 

Now guys, I just placed an order for my tune too, and I was under the impression that you can keep the GT tuner in exchange for your $250 deposit... I was clearly mistaken.. Soooo if I was to purchase the EZ flash cable that is on the trifecta performance website, what exactly would I be able to do with that? can I do data logging with that cable hooked up to my notebook computer, or is it just for basically flashing my car back to stock? Another question too, if I was to go to the dealer with my switchable tune, would it be better to reflash back to stock or to hope the dealer doesn't start hitting buttons in my car.. I do not know if the scanner they use at the dealership can tell if I reflashed it back to stock.. any input appreciated.

 

Ahh the cable question... was wondering when that would show up

I do not have the cable and have never used one... However, with that being said - there is a guy in my car club with one. He is able to do data logging via laptop and can reflash with the laptop as well. I think that Vince has to send you some software for your laptop, but that is about it... I am actually considering investing in one mayself since this is my second trifecta tune...

If you feel comfortable with reflashing then I suggest going back to stock for the dealership. Apparently you can save the stock file on the laptop and then select it when you want to flash back. The guy in my group actually keeps other car tunes on file for back up purposes just in case (that is the beauty of the cable). According to what I have read, GM can't find the tune - but I have never tested this in practice. Best to be safe as opposed to sorry (In my case it probably doesn't matter though)...

Cost for this post: $0.02

 

Newb question.. when you say WOT, does that mean With Out Traction?

 

wide open throttle

 

wide open throttle

 

basically floor it and shift accordingly

oh, and try not to have your ac on...doesn't affect the car too much - but you want your results as unaffected as possible...

 

lol.. You do realize that 1/4 mile hp calculators do nothing, there are so many variables it does not factor into it's equation making it absolutely useless! I wouldn't even use them to give me an idea of where my car would be with what ever time or power it'd put down.

Comparing dyno numbers against others from different parts of the country is comparing apples and oranges, too many variables. Only way to compare is to run your car down 1/4 mile and use the elevation factor charts, best way to compare with other ppl in different areas.

 

As for the dyno comparisons I agree...

As for the calculations, while there are factors that contribute (track conditions, temp, elevation, reaction times, etc...) the basic math involved can give one a basic idea of car performance (for example if you have a great reaction time and optimal conditions yet the calculations come out low - how can one boast 350+ whp?)....the equations are general in nature, but follow basic physics. The point I am trying to get across is that depending on the situation whether it be dyno or track you will get different numbers....saying those numbers are absolute isn't correct... regardless there will always be someone out there that will feel that they are right and that their numbers are absolute... once again, it is what it is...

 

When you are tuned, that is correct.

 

Using a 1/4 mile calculator for these cars is stupid, they are traction limited in the 2 first gears, and the simple calculator you are using does not account for that. It would be somewhat accurate for cars that have no traction issue. But again, it doesn't consider gearing, actual torque vs rpm the engine is producing, etc...

Also, it is hard to compare these cars to a stage 2 or 2+ sti, as the sti is fast from a dig and slow roll, where our cars are at their best from a higher roll, where most sti kinda suffer on top end.

 

Dynomites are crazy, the only one I saw was in SD when I dyno'd my AWD S4, used water for resistance/load! They are considered tuning dynos, because of the easy to load cars to real world conditions. I've heard/read that dynomites read as low as 15% vs mustang (current loads), and 20% lower then dynojets (free spinning). But remember its all about those big numbers...so next time use a dynoqueen! Cause having a big number is all that matters!

 

^^^lol... yeah I am getting the impression that all people want to see are those big numbers...

I can just see the dyno test...

Owner: What do you mean my hp is that low? It should easily be making 300+ whp!
Dyno guy: Well, every dyno is different... this one reads xxxwhp
Owner: Well your dyno obviously sucks
Dyno guy: Ok, well lets add a load factor for the dyno. We will call it a 'correction' factor to account that this dyno is different from all other dynos in the country.
Owner: Well now I see that the car is making 300+whp. Those are numbers I can believe!
Dyno guy: No problem. If you need higher numbers next time, just let me know...

For the sti2+ the dyno chart shows a gradual increase almost the entire course of the chart (I think it starts to plataeu around 5800rpm). The interesting thing to note was that my dyno shows a very sharp hp increase (due to the high torque) and remains relatively constant throughout the course of the chart. The max torque on the sti was approximately 292 (? - I will have to check that number just to make sure), while my dyno showed 318. Basically the cobalt has more power on the front end than the sti, but the sti has slightly higher overall whp. However, the sti has the advantage of the 4wd which allows for better traction. If you could efficiently stick a cobalt off the line, I think that you would find that you have the better launch as compared to the sti, but they would eventually get you in the end...

Looks like I am going to have to post the 2+ sti dyno sheet so that you guys have something else to argue over....

By the way... A 15% offset on my dyno numbers would show 293.4whp on a mustang and 20% would be 306.12whp on a dynojet..... I guess next time I should go find a dynojet....

Ok... here is the sti sheet.... the red is hp (265 max at 6000rpm) and blue is torque (292 max at 3750rpm):


Now here is mine one more time for general trend comparison...