Update 2 for OP:

After numerous tests on the motor every single intake valve requires replacement. My loss of power, as I figured, is the valves on the intake sticking open period (on all strokes) and they're now a mess, refuse to close and are being replaced under warranty.

This smells like the same issues VW had with DI motors of the past....

 

Sea foam ftw!!!

 

Man this might be the solution. I'm about to hit 40k miles and i think I'll do it soon.

 

i DO IT EVERY 2K MILES JSUT BECAUSE OF MY BOOST LEVELS AND FUEL USAGE.. ''




Sorry Bout the caps!! lol

 

I read somewhere you're not supposed to seafoam a DI motor, it's horrible for the injectors. Besides, mine aren't carbon build-up, it looks like I happened to end up with shitty valves period from factory based on my quick discussion with the dealer. For all of them to fail almost simultaneously seems a little bizarre imo.

On the plus side I was right. The symptoms pointed to more than just a boost leak or bad sensor and I thought I was hearing valve slap having no idea what in the hell it sounded like in the first place but I had no other logical explanation for the sound it would emit on start-up here and there .

I have to commend this dealer for wasting no time in digging in. Took it in, ran codes, test drove it, got more, I threw more over the weekend, and they immediately brought it in and tore the motor apart, no questions asked. Finally someone who knows what they're doing !

 

Are you saying maybe no Seafoam in the gas tank?

I don't see how seafoam in the intake manifold would hurt the injectors much.

Someone should do a before and after. I would but i don't have access to a dyno.

 

yOU HAPPEN TO KNOW WHAT SEA FOAM IS??????? Petroleum/ alcohol and ect. Who said it wasnt safe.. You know what a deisel engine is most of the time (DI INJECTION) How is it sea foam started with a DI ENGINE BUT CANT BE USED NOW OR IS UNSAFE... LOL... You getting my point. I sea foam every 2k and not one problem, infact my injectors nozzles and valves are clean as a wissle!!!!!
.....

 

http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-u...treatment.html




This is straight from SEAFOAM!!!!



Using Sea FoamŽ through a vacuum line is easy and safe if you remember one thing. Liquids don’t compress and can cause an engine to hydro lock if too much liquid is applied. Always regulate the rate at which Sea FoamŽ goes into the engine. Never insert the vacuum line into the bottle of Sea FoamŽ, always pour Sea FoamŽ slowly into the vacuum line.

It is important to make sure the engine is at operating temperature. Then find a vacuum line that feeds all cylinders, usually the PCV hose or the vacuum brake booster line may feed all cylinders. If you are in doubt as to which vacuum line to use, YOU MUST check with a certified auto technician. If a technician is not available or if your engine doesn't have any vacuum lines, then use the Sea FoamŽ Spray method described in another section of this web site.

After the correct vacuum line has been located, start engine and disconnect vacuum line. With engine running at idle and at operating temperature slowly pour Sea FoamŽ into vacuum line. It is important to control the rate at which Sea FoamŽ goes into the vacuum line. The engine will labor while applying Sea FoamŽ. Pour enough Sea FoamŽ into the vacuum line to make the engine labor at idle, but not enough to stall engine.

After 1/3 to ˝ can of Sea FoamŽ has been induced into the engine, shut engine off and let sit (hot soak) for about 5- 10 minutes and reconnect vacuum line. After the 5-10 minute hot soak period, restart engine in a well ventilated area as exhaust may be extreme for a short time. Road test the vehicle immediately after start up, driving aggressively until exhaust looks normal. This usually takes up to 5 miles. It is always better and safer to road test car to clean the gum, varnish and carbon out of the engine.

By doing this you have done an intense carbon cleaning procedure to your engine. This operation is recommended once a year or every 15,000 miles.


For more than 65 years, Sea FoamŽ has been proven to be safe for use in all engines, both diesel and gasoline, and won’t harm gaskets, seals or other internal components of the engine, fuel system or oil system. Sea FoamŽ is a pure petroleum blend with no chemical additives. Sea FoamŽ has been endorsed by numerous engine manufacturers, and is recommended by thousands of professional mechanics and service technicians throughout the U.S. and Canada.


Sea FoamŽ is composed solely of three specially blended petroleum oils – each having specific functions such as lubricating, cleaning or moisture control. There are no other chemicals (not even color dyes) included in the formulation. Being of the same basic petroleum chemistry as the motor oils and gasoline you already use in your engine, Sea FoamŽ is completely compatible with all engine components, fuels, lubricants and other additives you may have in your engine. Sea FoamŽ will not damage gaskets or seals, and will not interact in a negative way with motor oil or fuel, or the additives used in them.

Sea FoamŽ is safe for ALL commonly used engines – Automotive, Truck, Industrial, Agricultural, Motorcycle, Marine, Small Engines (lawnmowers, yard tools, etc.), and even Rotary (Wankel Type) engines. 2-cycle and 4-cycle as well as diesel engines, when used as directed, are completely compatible with Sea FoamŽ.

No – quite the opposite. Sea FoamŽ actually helps to clean the catalytic elements, restoring its efficiency, and reducing that “rotten egg” odor you occasionally smell from some catalytic converters that aren’t working properly




To clean carbon and varnish deposits from the tops of cylinders and the backs of intake valves, add 1 oz. Sea FoamŽ to each gallon of fuel. Sea FoamŽ will slowly re-liquefy the varnish and gum deposits that hold carbon together.

To remove carbon and varnish deposits more quickly, Sea FoamŽ can be induced directly into the combustion chamber via the following method. With the engine warmed up and running, SLOWLY POUR 1/3 to ˝ can of Sea FoamŽ down the carburetor throat or into any main manifold vacuum line that DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. Note that some newer induction systems, like those found on Vortec and Subaru “H” style engines, do not have any vacuum line that distribute evenly. Consequently, this process should only be attempted by technicians with a comprehensive understanding of the engine’s induction system or use Sea FoamŽ Spray through the throttle body (discribed in a different section of this web site).

Once the product has been applied, turn off the engine and allow the Sea FoamŽ to heat soak for a minimum of 10 minutes. At this time, Sea FoamŽ will dissolve the varnish deposits that hold carbon together. After allowing the Sea FoamŽ to soak, restart the engine in a WELL VENTILATED AREA as exhaust will be extreme for a short time. Drive aggressively for 2 to 5 miles to allow all the atomized carbon to be safely expelled from the system. REPEAT Sea FoamŽ TREATMENT AS NECESSARY.

Performing a Sea FoamŽ Engine Treatment on a Fuel Injected Engine

Begin by parking the vehicle in a well ventilated area. Locate a vacuum line that you are certain DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. On many vehicles the easiest option is taking the vacuum line from your brake booster PCV. (See notes about special situations such as the Vortex or Subaru H style engines.) If you are not certain, contact a certified technician.















Start the engine. For automatic transmissions, keep the car in PARK. For manual transmissions, put the car in neutral and apply the parking brake. SLOWLY POUR 1/3 to ˝ can of Sea FoamŽ Motor Treatment into the vacuum hose, while at the same time revving the engine to about 2000 RPMs. You will begin to see clouds of white exhaust from the tailpipes. When you have finished pouring, turn off the engine and let it sit for at least 10 minutes.

 

Now that you guys have asked, you've got me searching for where in the hell I read it . If people have been doing it and things are running fine, even though mine had no carbon build-up, I'll definitely be considering it in the future . No more motor teardowns please!

 

Read what is above.. Whom ever said it was unsafe is a dumb idiot!!

 

Ya just read through it, thanks for that .

 

Your welcome.. GM has there own fuel injector conditioner/ valve conditioner cleaner that cost like 100+ ...... Prob teh reason the dumb ass tech told you not to do it.. Money loss. It has been proven many times .. sea foam will correctly clean **** and ect!

 

I don't think they're sticking open...just a bunch on carbon on the backs which can interfere with performance. I'm using Redline SI-1 gas treatment in every tank. Yeah..we know the intake valves don't see any gas, but this stuff is supposed to survive combustion (to some extent) and get a shot back into the intake via PCV. Same with oil..using Pennzoil Ultra which has been demonstrated to really keep things clean. Will the oil reach the intake valves? Some of it should...who knows? I'm reluctant to use seafoam on this engine...thinking of using WATER instead which has been shown to really knock the **** out of the carbon deposits. Thing is....do want those flying around in the engine?

 

^^^^^^^^ I dont get why people are scared to use sea foam. I made a how to (The correct way)

 

I'll definitely be asking for clarification when I go in (hopefully) next week to pick it up good as new . At this point, the dealer has been excellent so I'm just letting 'em do their thing but my curiosity is getting the better of me.

 

So if it were any sensor, it would trip a code correct? If that's the case it's gotta be a boost leak or maybe my plugs aren't gapped right? Would knock sensor throw a code if it was faulty?

 

That isn't neccessarily true. If the sensor is reading inside it's parameters, just reading wrong, it may not set a code. A bad knock sensor would because it's very simple (most likely) though it isn't always certain.

 

Any update Permafried. Another wierd occurrence today. I was pulling out in traffic and I was in 3rd so I gave her a bit of gas and bang bang bang the car suddenly backfired all within a couple seconds. Scared the **** outta me. It's almost like the cars possessed lol. It was raining a bit, very humid and it was 30* Celsius plus humidity. It almost sounds like it may be forcing air out of the intake which I know sounds really wierd. I can never catch this stuff on my phone because when I'm expecting it to do it, it doesn't lol. Arggg. I'm hoping I can get an appointment at a dealership that knows a bit about these cars next week.

 

Also, I dunno how accurate the stock boost gauge is but on a tune that is showing a max boost of 22.5 on hpt, my boost gauge is showing 180-190 kpa(25-27psi) on a short 3rd gear pull lol.

 

this is to me, but it sounds likeone either you have a bad injector, a bad lasj adjuster or even valve, or you have a boost leak somewhere!!!

 

Can you tell if you have a bad injector by logging with hpt? I logged injector(pulsewidth) I think it was and they looked fine? Is there any tests to run to see if an injector may be bad? I have a new valve cover gasket coming so once I get that I'll pull the valve cover. Also did a boost leak test here a few months ago when all this stuff started happening and I found nothing. Then again I only did from upper cp to lower cp, this time I'm gonna include the turbo.

 

with the pulsewidth not really. But you can check the resistance within the injector to see if it is bad. tHE ISSUE YOU ARE HAVING IS WHAT I HAD WHEN I FIRST BOUGHT THE CAR FROM BAD BALT GUY and the issue was two-3 broken lash adjusters and 1 bad injector which i replaced.!!!

 

So if I go to my buddies garage, he should be able to test the resistance in the injector to see or is this something I can do myself?

Thanks for the help.

 

you can tell with a dvom.. only issue is i dunno where you can find out about the resistance in the injectors. Like whats allowed and whats not. Alldata should have it!!..

 

I sold my shop manuals, it's in there though. Even if they check out electrically, there may be an issue with the nozzle or valving itself.

I'm sure you could compare all 4 and get an idea if one had a whacked out resistance reading.