Hey domisti have you and your tuner looked at what cylinders are misfiring and or knocking... If its usually just one individual cylinder check plug, coil, fuel injector and ect, if its all, its gonna either be 1. fuel issue, 2. wiring issue with the cr, 3. bad compression, 4. bad lash adjuster and its causing a rumble in the head causing it to knock and ect, 5... I dunno your tuner but he can possibly look the tune over again and see if theres somthing in there causing it.. Theres more just a possibilities. !!

 

Excuse my newbness but what's a dvom? Lol

So the best bet would be to take them all out? How would you test them out spray wise, just pull them all out, leaving them in the fuel rail and letting the spray fuel?

Sorry for all the questions guys just collecting info for my own curiosity.

 

Yeah, term tuned me and he's been helping me through this but even he is stumped. Cyl 4 has the most knock but all the other cylinders have shown knock as well. With the stethoscope, we can hear a metallically noise on cyl 4 on the exhaust side. We went from cyl 1-4 going from intake to exhaust side, back and forth and it's more noticeable on cyl 4 exhaust side. I can send you a log if your interested to you can just the knock. My fuel trims were quite negative before the tune and even when I threw on the k&n Sri, it didn't change the fuel trims at all, which I thought was wierd.

Also what do you mean by cr. In this statement-->, 2. wiring issue with the cr,

Also, I had this issue before I got the tune back when I had gms1. I bought a tune to try and see if it would fix the issue but the tune just magnifies it or so it seems. Term has been awesome, ant put a price on how much he's helped me. He's redid the tune twice already and tons of trying different scenarios as well.

 

Heres the vid of my boost gauge.
http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w...t/47a39183.mp4
http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w...t/d11f469e.mp4

 

ok since you are gmst1 it could possibly be the sensors, my issue also was the wiring, it was throwing random **** out there caseing alot of **** to skew.. About my wiring comment, lnfs an lsjs lik to rub wires so check for grouding wires. If you hear a metal sound check within the valve cover and check compression!!!!

 

We checked compression. Cyl 1-4 was 150, 150, 155, 150. Cyl 4 build the compression faster than the rest.

 

The cylinder #4 then,either has a issue with the valve opening up on exaust side or its just a perspective of how u are looking at it

 

Dude just pull the valve cover already. I'm willing to bet you have a cracked lash adjuster on #4
Also, those are kind of low compression readings. They are acceptable, but normally you see 170-180psi.

 

Depends on elevation and air temps and humidity.... Around my elevation 150 160 is norm

 

I'm going to pull it I'm just waiting for my valve cover gasket. It's pointless to do it now then have to do it again in a week when I get the gasket. I don't wanna half ass things, wanna make sure I do it properly. I too am leading to a cracked or broken lash adjustor. Would that cause negative fuel trims?

 

I'm not sure on my elevation. Prob 2000-3000 maybe less.

 

Car is back, workorder is huge, stronger than ever and so far so good. If you want OP I can scan my workorder and PM it to you so you have an idea what was done, just not sure if you're having the exact same problem I was. You'll know when you pull the valvecover, 8 valves were replaced in mine, all the gaskets and there's some good info on there.

My car always threw a P0236 and eventually a P2261. According to the workorder those are both dynamic codes that set when there is a delta between the MAF and MAP, and with my valves leaking (heavy heavy carbon build-up), there's no way pressure could have built up in the manifold (would have been vacuum loss etc), leading to at least one of those.

 

How negative are we talking? It could cause a bit of a rich condition, since this is a DI motor and if your intake valve is not opening all the way (as I suspect) then there isnt enough air getting to the fuel that is being injected into the cylinder, causing the PCM to pull fuel. On a factory/GMS1 tune though +/- 5 fuel trims is about normal.

 

Well, on my gms1 tune, my total fuel trims were -7 to as much as -13. Even when I put the Kn Sri on the trims barely moved which is odd, giving most people with the k&n have +6 to +10 fuel trims. When I had the tune on, term had my ltfts -2 to +2 but my stfts were as low as -14 to +14. also as term said, the knock is consistent and didn't change no matter how much or how little timing we ran. I was at 15* and was knocking 4* so term pulled out 5* and it still knocked the same.

 

There is many things that can cause this.....Something mechanical, to corrupt Tuning software... I mean you need to inspect everything then go from there.!!!

 

Well, you have given me many places to start so I'll start by looking inside the valve cover. I'm on vacation in 2 weeks so I'll be going over it. The only thing that worries me is that I don't know what I'm looking for on something, so I may overlook something. Time will tell. I forgot to mention that the car doesn't spool up a fast as it use to before all this started last year also I have bpv flutter in first gear when the needle is in vacuum. Checked/ replaced the bpv, replaced bpv solenoid, replaced vacuum tank, lower cp, plugs(stock ac delco's), replaced upper cp with injens/ upgraded tbolts and couplers. Like I say it's been going on for over a year now. The Shity thing is it threw a p0236 code last year but once they cleared it, it didn't come back. It's gotta be a leak around the turbo or something mechanical.

 

jarren, you need to drive that thing up to the lookoff, and just push it over the edge!
that car hasn't cooperated with you since the day you got it! I hope you can finally get this sorted out soon!

 

Me to man. I have tried buttgis car ******* hates me.I think the motor may be on it's way out. I'm seeing puffs of bluish black smoke at wot in the last week or so.

 

Waiting for my vacation to do some more tests. Also Permafried, if you wanna scan the workorder and email it to me my email is jdlewis_87@hotmail.com

 

Dude, your symptoms are almost identical to mine when my map sensor blew on my last SS/TC. It would pop and crack and spark knock. Also my boost would be skewed, I would sometimes hit 27-28psi. Had my GMS1 sensors on order but Performance Autowerks couldn't get them to me for a month and a half til it got to the point I had wrecked the car. So yea, if you want something fast I don't think they can't help you there. But the excessive noise on cylinder 4, do you think that could be noise traveling from your fuel pump down the engine internals?(cam?..etc..) number 4 is right next to the HPFP...but then again you are saying the noise sounds like its coming from the exhaust side...and then theres the p0236 code...

 

What map sensor was gone on yours? The upper or lower? I have the gms1 sensors in now. That's the thing with these cars. There's so much that it can be and if you don't know or are not firmilliar with what your looking for, you screwed. The tune only made the symptoms worse and it was pretty much dialed in.

 

Going to sub this for updates.. but I'm having a similar problem, albeit different as well. Getting more knock than usual after seafoaming it and changing plugs last weekend. Less power as well, however, tonight it was fine until the coolant temperature rose above 175 F; it had 0 knock and was stronger than ever. Still waitin to see if anybody chimes in on that problem first b4 I do anything in the next couple of days. Am hoping it's not a lash adjuster :s

 

Mine to seems to knock more when it's hotter. I don't beat on it until it's warmed up tho.

 

I only beat on it to see if it would do it cold as well.. just had a hunch and sure enough.. only when hot.

 

Any updates yet? My problem's not 100% solved, but it's much much better and almost safe lol..