This morning I went out to start my car for work. Turned the key and the car started up, then immediately stalled out. This happened a few times. Tried giving a little gas to rev it. Nothing at all. Finally it did idle but was very rough going through the warm up cycle and after. It was very cold this morning and we had freezing rain. Both car doors were frozen solid. ( thought the handle was gonna go) anyways. I begin my journey and instantly notice that when I give it any amount of gas there is no power at all. Boost gauge reads about -10 at most. At stops, the car was still running rough. I get to work fine but slow. After work I started it to make sure it would before a co worker left. The car fired right up and the idling was fine. I get it up to temp, drive home and notice it goes to 0 psi under normal throttle which I normally do. Figured everything was ok. Noticed when I shifted to second and kept accelerating and keeping at 0psi, it would pulsate. I can see the gauge pulsate up and down slightly and can feel the power difference. I did press the throttle harder and was able to boost to around 5psi perfectly fine ( wasn't going to hit wot 10 degree weather). Friend and work was thinking maybe the throttle body would be causing this and may have moisture in it. lnf just a cai no tune.

 

Big.........giant.........boost...........leak. Or vac leak. Whatever you would like to call it.

 

Sounds right.

 

Wonderful lol

 

A customer of mine had this issue recently. I told him to check his intake coupler to the turbo inlet, it had come off the turbo inlet.

 

Looked under the hood. Nothing seems to be loose or anything but looks can be deceiving. Knock on wood the car is running fine. Minus the fact that it hates -20*f temps lol

 

Do you have the stock intercooler? Stock intercoolers are plastic, so they get very brittle in the winter, when it's super cold. I cracked two in the winter months and switched to metal.

Also, you can't actually see most of the connections that need to be checked, unless you pull the fender liners.

 

Also, if you have the stock intake, check the valve-cover line going to the intake elbow. It sometimes breaks. It's the left red arrow.

 

I'll have to wait a little while before I will be able to go further with this. Dealership is out of the picture and weather conditions don't help. Anyways. Is it ok to run the car with a boost leak? The highest I like to go is just 0 at most with a once In a while boost past 5psi. I'm still trying to figure out how it was fine Friday, sat til Monday morning and that's when it didn't want to start/idle. Would there be anything I would of noticed when the leak first started?

 

Driving with a boost leak means you're sucking in unfiltered air, so I could potentially cause issues. Just know there is a risk to driving it.

 

Could a stuck open bpv show the same problems as a boost leak? May check the Tb too.

 

Technically, the. BPV is held closed with boost pressure, so there really isn't a way for it to stick open. It's more likely to not open.

Maybe if the solenoid was stuck on vac? I suppose it's possible. I've never heard of that happening but it's the solenoid on the top left of your intake manifold. I'll get you a pic here in a few. Testing it would be possible with some wire and car battery but don't shock your tongue while blowing and sucking.

 

Stuck open/ closed dv won't cause rough running. Just no boost or power.

 

What would cause both then? How would a boost leak make the car stall out when I tried starting it. I'm thinking something to do with the throttle body having possible moisture in it and it freezing. It was very very cold that morning and sat for the weekend before that day.

 

Boost leak, or maybe bad injectors . Could be a leak there too

 

Most likely a boost leak then. Only has 44000 on it.

 

SSlobalt, can you explain what exactly this line does? I am not very well versed in automotive mechanics and have not found a complete explanation, having seen this line referred to as the PCV valve itself, the PCV check valve, and several variations on "tube thing". Mine just broke for the second time and this time I will replace the intake with a metal aftermarket.

 

I believe it acts as ventilation for the valve cover. From what I understand, during combustion in the cylinders, pressure can build in the valve cover from escaping gases, This tube relieves the pressure by rerouting back into the intake system.

Anyways, thats how I understand it.

Also to note, that specific valve is attached at the intake to provide "feed" for the vacuum system its supposed to create. The exiting tube exits right into the turbo before the compressor. Its right where you see a lot of oil pooled lol. its why people get an oil separator installed.

I'll draw a pic and see if it makes sense. Also the critics can correct my fan art. lol.

 

There look good? lol. Makes sense?

 

Ah I remember making this post last year. Actually never looked into and it never did happen again since. Forgot alllll about it. Eh its fine lol