2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

Spec Stage 3+ ?'s

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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 07:53 AM
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Willis08tc's Avatar
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From: Van down by the river....
Spec Stage 3+ ?'s

I just got my clutch and im ready to install. I heard a rumor that there is a dowel pin in the trans that has to be removed to install . My question is there any mods that need to be done to install this clutch, or is it a direct bolt on other than the obvious replacement of the throwout bearing and machine the flywheel. Thanx in advance - Gary
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 09:25 AM
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From: Tejas
Sub'd

Have a 3+ too for a "rainy day" and would like to make sure I'm not forgetting anything.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 09:35 AM
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From: Kathmandu
Originally Posted by Willis08tc
I just got my clutch and im ready to install. I heard a rumor that there is a dowel pin in the trans that has to be removed to install . My question is there any mods that need to be done to install this clutch, or is it a direct bolt on other than the obvious replacement of the throwout bearing and machine the flywheel. Thanx in advance - Gary
Originally Posted by Iam Broke
Clutch - SPEC Stage2+ : SPEC SC073H-3

Flywheel : SPEC SC07A-3 Listed on the TTR site for the '08 HHR SS LNF

You have to have 3 holes drilled out to 12mm on the stock flywheel to use it. The dowel pins on the spec are larger. I opted for the matching flywheel.

If you specify that you want it for the stocker, they include the dowel pins. I was going that route initially and changed my mind. Called SPEC and found out the discs are the same in our case so it was no problem. Jeremy from SPEC informed me in most cases the discs would be different on other applications.
This was from IamBroke, when I asked the same question.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 10:02 AM
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From: Des Moines, IA
I just removed the dowels on my flywheel, I did this on suggestion from Bill Duncan actually and its been fine like he said it would be. They were a bitch to get out, I had to go borrow a dowel remover from a friend.

EDIT: https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...5&postcount=15

A post I made awhile back with more details.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 10:13 AM
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Mine was a direct swap when i did the spec stg 3+
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 12:13 PM
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From: Dark side of the Moon
Originally Posted by ecotecturbo
Mine was a direct swap when i did the spec stg 3+
On an LNF? Stock flywheel?
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 12:30 PM
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From: Van down by the river....
This is what i was referring too... i have heard it is a direct bolt on. I have heard about the hole reeming and dowel removal. i wood like to find out for sure before i rip it out. I may send it back and go with clutchmasters stage4.

BTW... i want to keep the stock flywheel and not remove dowels they were put there for a reason.

Last edited by Willis08tc; Feb 25, 2010 at 12:30 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 01:19 PM
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Byhe only reason the dowels are there is for lining it up. If you have two people no need for them.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 01:30 PM
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From: Des Moines, IA
or just use a couple pin punches to line them up.

If a GMPP engineer tells me its okay to ditch them, who am I to say otherwise?
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 07:23 PM
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From: Dark side of the Moon
Curious...

If the dowels are not needed during operation, why did SPEC opt to make them larger?

I guess I need to study where all the force is being applied to the clutch parts if the dowels don't have any function during operation.

I'm not a B.S.M.E., just a lowly A.S.E.E.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Willis08tc
This is what i was referring too... i have heard it is a direct bolt on. I have heard about the hole reeming and dowel removal. i wood like to find out for sure before i rip it out. I may send it back and go with clutchmasters stage4.

BTW... i want to keep the stock flywheel and not remove dowels they were put there for a reason.
If this is your DD you might want to reconsider that clutch... One member on here that I tuned had that clutch and it was not a very street-friendly application in my opinion. To tell the truth... that clutch was either engaged on disengaged... very little play and next to no slipping to get it started.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 07:36 PM
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From: Tejas
Originally Posted by Willis08tc
This is what i was referring too... i have heard it is a direct bolt on. I have heard about the hole reeming and dowel removal. i wood like to find out for sure before i rip it out. I may send it back and go with clutchmasters stage4.

BTW... i want to keep the stock flywheel and not remove dowels they were put there for a reason.
Originally Posted by nelson
If this is your DD you might want to reconsider that clutch... One member on here that I tuned had that clutch and it was not a very street-friendly application in my opinion. To tell the truth... that clutch was either engaged on disengaged... very little play and next to no slipping to get it started.
I hinted about this in another post, but I think this is part of why badbaltguy had his tranny issue. The clutch has no give.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Iam Broke
Curious...

If the dowels are not needed during operation, why did SPEC opt to make them larger?

I guess I need to study where all the force is being applied to the clutch parts if the dowels don't have any function during operation.

I'm not a B.S.M.E., just a lowly A.S.E.E.
If I was making them, I would do it to just so you have to buy the flywheel and clutch and I make more money.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 08:09 PM
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From: Dark side of the Moon
Yes, I see the logic in that from a mfg. point of view.

Need Bill's input here I guess.

They do give instructions & dowels for using the larger dowels in the stock flywheel though. That makes a machine shop money, not SPEC. Still must be a reason, even if it was just that it was designed to fit something else first.

I did end up buying both the clutch & flywheel though. That's another reason why Iam Broke.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 08:56 PM
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i have the clutchmasters stage 4 6 puck

no daily driving issue whatsoever
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 10:42 PM
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I'm sure the dowels help with shearing force on the fastners along with making sure the alignment is spot on. I have ran a clutch w/o dowels before though when a machine shop neglected to put them back in after resurfacing so I wasnt very worried. That was on a AWD DSM with an ACT 2600 and its still running last I knew after 2 yrs. Don't get me wrong, I do think they serve a purpose... but I'm not launching the space shuttle here.

Should it ever shell out, I'll let you guys know
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 08:21 AM
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From: Dark side of the Moon
I pulled the clutch and flywheel out last night and looked it over, I see your point. All they will do is keep the bolts from getting the load. Thanks.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 08:43 AM
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From: Kathmandu
Originally Posted by Iam Broke
I pulled the clutch and flywheel out last night and looked it over, I see your point. All they will do is keep the bolts from getting the load. Thanks.
You're doing this job yourself? Please take pics.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Iam Broke
On an LNF? Stock flywheel?
No lsj, stock flywheel resurfaced.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 10:06 AM
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From: Dark side of the Moon
No, I meant I took the new parts out and examined them. I have to choose my words more carefully on the internetz.

TO bearing comes Sat so I hope to get it installed next week. Too much for this old man to do on his back in the garage. Haven't done a clutch since the '65 Malibu SS in about 1974.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 12:11 PM
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Last clutch I did was on my 1990 Ford Festiva. It was about as big around as a dinner plate.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 07:21 PM
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i bought the spec 3+ and light flywheel. will there be any problems with it installing it?
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 08:18 PM
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If you purchased both item at the same time, on the same order, you should not have any issues. Being they are both "spec" brand.
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