Yes, you do have be meticulous about tuning for it but I will say that I just ran 4.5 seconds from 60-100 at 21 psi and the stock MAF tables with the Hahn intake, compared to my normal time of 5.2 seconds with the stock intake with the drop in filter. The best time I had gotten previously was ~4.6 seconds with the AEM intake at 24psi (4.9 seconds at 21 psi) I bet once I get it fully dialed in at 24 psi I will be able run an honest 4 seconds flat. The Hahn intake has enormous top end compared to any of the other intakes.

Thanks Steve. :twothumbs

I am thinking it is more like 25-30 whp when you have an agressive tune and full boltons. Heck Look at this dyno graph with a canned PPC tune.
http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/7...eicdpcpscb.jpg

That was with a PPC tuner which uses the stock MAF tables and stock timing so more of a conservative tune if you will.

I pulled a 4.7 with 100% stock parts, then 4.4 with DP, CP and K&N, 4.07 with Hahn CAI on the car.

I know but I bet you 100 bucks that same tune in my car would not pull those times off down here in Florida. You have much denser air up there :P Side note you should have pulled harder on that Trifecta tuned car :P. He was running 24 psi vs your 22 psi ish. Your car is probably always going to be approx 1/2 a second faster than mine with the same mods and the same tune.

Im also on my snow tires, after changing my wheels yesterday I realized they are quite a bit heavier! I plan on throwing a 24psi tune on it then running him again. Should put some space on him, not a ton but a lil bit :)

I find it strange that cmiller was running ~5.5 seconds from 60-100 with his 24 psi Trifecta tune. He ran a 12.2 at 112 mph QM on slicks and 12.7 at 115 mph on street tires. He ran 4.9 seconds at 22 psi with a more effective A/F which does not suprise me at all. What I do not understand is if cmiller's car ran 5.5 seconds and that other Trifecta tuned car you ran is running the same tune at 24 psi you should have raped him if you are running 4.0 seconds from 60-100.

Cmiller had that Highboost kit inline like the pill mod shows. It was making his boost come on really slow, he thought it was the TF tune possibly, he said it never came on right and just thought it was the tune. (I never even saw a 24psi spike in his log he sent me with the TF tune on the car) After I sent him a file to try, it did the samething. We came to the conclusion that it has to be something with the Highboost kit and he tried pulling that Highboost kit out. His car now boosts right and that's really where he gained his time.

What I think those races showed is exactly what you've been saying. The AF really does make a difference. I was running less boost rolling off boost sooner and pulled the same with less boost and the right AFR. Im betting that with 24psi Ill put a car on him, the car def pulls harder thru the midrange with the pill in and that's where he gained on me everytime.

I find it strange you aren't pulling faster then me with 40 extra whp lol. Somehow our "dense air" makes the car go faster yet doesn't make that 40whp jump you have on everyone... where's that dyno btw? ;) lol!

Yea, that highboost kit was hit or miss, I took it out and all is better. The boost would come on real slow sometimes and others it would spike real big and settle down. I am looking to prolly do the pill mod to soon and get it dialed in for the track in a month.

Different dyno. Why are you so hung up on the numbers? My car made 253 whp stock on that dyno which is about 5% more than most make stock. 340 X 1.05 = 360 hp. You dynoed 320 whp with the crappy stock airbox on the car. An Intake adds up to 25-30 whp up top. You should make 345 whp or so on that same dyno next time with the intake and the pill. Stock airbox vs intake is no comparison as far as top end hp is concerned.

You must be one helluva driver to pull off those QM runs that fast considering where you were tune wise before. Get yourself a Hahn intake and a pill and some retuning and you should be hitting 11.6-11.7 at 116-117 mph. :twothumbs

I should do some data logging with the dashhawk so we can get some solid numbers recorded and make this thread even better...what you think term2? I have a stock intake and a drop in k&n I can record for.

345 is still not 360+ And as stated previously, I wouldnt be so hung up on numbers if it was within an acceptable margin. Not to mention now it says 24psi is teh latest tune when Blueberry dyno'd your tune at 22 to get those numbers you are claiming. End the debate, post the graph already ;)

And Im hung up on numbers? You brought up numbers with my 60-100 times yet you ignore my question about how my dense air could make my car faster yet I dont come close in whp to you? Any thoughts on that one?


And I agree on the Cmiller front. We're throwing a 24-25psi tune on it now and 11.7-11.8 def seems attainable!

You must be one helluva driver to pull off those QM runs that fast considering where you were tune wise before. Get yourself a Hahn intake and a pill and some retuning and you should be hitting 11.6-11.7 at 116-117 mph. :twothumbs[/QUOTE]

It didnt always act like that. It was better for awhile and I never had the highboost kit on there. If I didnt spend so much money on the things I just bought I would get the hahn intake. What would it do if you left the filter out lol.

I did that once LOL. Lots and lots of MAF skew and with the stock intake elbow going to the turbo there will be no power gains at all and response will be crap because of loads of rich spikes.

Intake/ gms1
 

Hey, not sure if this is the right thread for this question, but regardless there always seems to be good feedback from some knowledgeable people wherever the posts go... I am about to do the GMS1 and have also ordered a new CAI. Am I better off putting the intake on before or after the GMS1 install? The reason I ask is for the purpose of the tune that GM performs on initial install. Or will the ECU automatically adjust as it learns the new intake, no matter when it's installed? Thanks for any help!

LOL... no doubt that termi knows his stuff but he does seem to dodge the "lets see your dyno graph" question pretty well..

The GMS1 before or after the intake isn't going to matter. The tune doesn't reflect any change in the intake tract so the ECU will try to compensate for it over time to an extent. You really need to custom tune for the intakes available right now but that defeats your GMS1 choice to keep the warranty. Catch 22.

Damn, well there goes $300 until the warranty runs out... oops

Whoever HP Tunes your car can do a write entire back to the car with the GMS1 alone if you have to goto the dealer.

QFT. A good HP Tune on top of the GMS1 & intake is the way to go. He didn't say he wanted to tune it after the GMS1 though.

^^^ Hows the clutch and flywheel working?

So your saying if I buy a any CAI intake and cut about 3in infront of the MAF, wrapped the new hole tight with some screen door material, clamped it under a silicone coupler and tightened that thing down with a t-bolt clamp it would work?

no not screen door material.. he's most likely refering to an air strainer type of a screen

Show me where to get it and I'll test the piss out of it. I have no problem moding a intake. I just need to get one first.

So I need:

1) Intake - Dejon or Injen to test
2) Silicone Coupler - Vibrant DUH!!
3) Two T-bolt Clamps - Ha! What brands are any good?
4) Air Screen - Need suggestion

ya im so f'ing confused as to why no company has used an air straightener on a intake yet. fucking boggles my mind. Thats part of how it was fixed for the 2.3L mzr.

Woo Hoo!

10.99
http://tinyurl.com/yzwesoe

That wire mesh may work okay.

Here's one built into a MAF used on Vette applications:

http://www.c5racer.com/catalog/images/HC.125-3.jpg
http://www.c5racer.com/catalog/Air-I...5f11988dd56d17



Here's another idea... the one used for the MS3: http://www.kstech.biz/servlet/the-14...ghtener/Detail

http://www.kstech.biz/media/1/a20791...78e5ed4b_s.jpg

$11.50 ;)

It says it fits 2.75" tubing.

Agreed

Term first of all great write up. Second of all what do you say you and me write up a tuning thread, I did DP's you did Intakes now with a Tune section we could potentially create a thread called "All You Need to Know About Modding Your SS/TC". Obviously you would be the expert on tuning I would more or less put stuff together and help ;)

A thread that compares the cost, power gains, install difficulty, warranty issues (ease of hiding tune), popped pistons tally, basic principle of how each tune works (canned vs custom) and driveability... of the big tunes out there (PPC, Superchips, GMS1, HP, Trifecta, ZZP).

Let me know what you think, if your interested we can get started whenever.

Just a thought :)

Sounds like a cool idea. I have lots of info to contribute.

there already is one from BYT. It's in depth and detailed pretty well. It's a good starting point for a lot of novice tuners.

The honeycomb one looks like it would work the best. The factory MAF has a channel like the second picture to help, well channel, the air over the sensor itself, but it is not very effective at straightning turbulant air. That is why the K&N drop ins skew the sensor 5-12% even though the stock airbox and MAF location are still being used. Honeycomb straightners flow very well so there would be no loss in performance. In fact, it would be better because the airflow over the sensor would be much more consistant which would result in much better throttle response.

Correction factors make a 5% difference on there own. too Did your car make 253ish whp on that dynojet stock? My car made 253 whp 247 wrtq stock STD 242 whp 237 wrtq SAE stock. The 345 whp 375 wrtq was STD corrected 333 whp 360 wtrq SAE. Here is the 345 whp dyno sheet.

http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/2383/fullsizeo.jpg

Ignore the A/F. Leaded race gas tainted sniffer LOL. Scanner never showed richer than 0.844 lambda This was at 21-22 psi 0.86 lambda and 15* of timing. Dejon SRI, DP, CPs, CB, IC. 3rd gear pulls. Never used 4th for any of my runs.

But it's on the HPT forum, right?

Yep.

Not a thread on how to tune, just a thread comparing all of the tunes out there and basically the pro's and con's of each, except with a lot of detail. There is a new GMS1, Trifecta or HP thread poping up everyday asking the same questions.

It's on here in the Tuning section.

Did you see one of the dyno graps you had asked for in my post above? That was 0.86 lambda and 15* of timing.

That's your old one that even in your thread says tuned by you and someone else, and it's shy about 20whp of your claims...Not to mention how amazing that whp number is with .86 lambda and only 15* timing..
Ill bet it's that HAPPY HAPPY dyno ;) http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...XMX78p22mGod5g

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...30&postcount=6




https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/tuning-131/lnf-tuning-basics-w-hptuners-183251/
Thats the tuning guide.

I was working on my buddies Saab 9-3 turbo yesterday and he had a honeycomb style straightener just prior to his MAF, the diameter is the same as the start of our intake elbow. I think a Saab straightener could be rigged in place...

Maybe we could grab the part number for that then and start looking into it.

Nice catch.

I concur with the honey comb, one shop used it on the ms3 with great results.

here is what the CPE and cobb look like, this is the cpe sri:
https://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e...hGTP/nano1.jpg

Also AEM who made the MAzdaspeed 3 intake, sells a insert like stamina posted, that just drops into the intake tube infront of the maf.

That would be ideal. Hopefully it is about the right diameter. It could be made to fit though. unless it is too small.

I like the honeycomb airflow straightener the best idea compare to the AEM version for the mazdaspeed. Just don't know if the part itself will fix all the problems that doesn't require a tune for an aftermarket CAI.