turbo swap in t minus 2 weeks
I dont know about a 'few hours'. My first time took me all day taking my time and going to eat and stuff. By all day I mean I started at about ten and finished at around five. There were several trips to the parts store and missing gaskets that I didnt know I needed. Just stuff like that.
Basically:
-Remove Intake
-Remove Upper CP
-Optional:Remove VC to give you some more room to play with
-Clamp coolant hoses
-Unbolt and remove DP(trust me, its easier with it out of the way,some choose to leave it hanging there)
-Disconnect the breather lines
-Disconnect O2 wiring harness
-Remove heat shielding(kinda a PITA lol)
-Once DP is removed you will have to remove the support bracket and arm down by the turbo
-Unbolt and disconnect all lines
-Loosen the nuts that hold the turbo in place but do not remove(just so you have some play)
-This is where you need to decide whether you are going to try and take the turbo out through the bottom or the top with the O2 on or off. I tried both with the O2 housing still on and for the life of me, I could not find a way to get the whole damn thing out via top or bottom. So I undid the nuts that hold the housing to the turbo and once they were separated it was a piece of cake to remove them separately from one another, you have to do this anyway to bolt it onto the BNR. Maybe someone else has a better way...???
-Once its out you want to pull the ring gaskets out of each end of the O2 housing and replace them with the new ones I told you to buy. One end is the DP and the other is the turbo. IF THIS IS NOT DONE YOU RUN THE RISK OF A LEAK. It happened to me man, better to be safe than sorry and have to do all this **** again like me. Leak at the DP, not too big of a adeal but annoying and easy to fix. Leak at the turbo? LOL sucks ass big time!
-Put the spacer that BNR provides in place with the two new stock turbo mani gaskets I told you to get too. This is straight forward: gasket---spacer---gasket.
-With the new ring gaskets in place position the turbo and O2 housing back behind the engine and bolt them back together tightly and evenly.
-Then bolt the turbo back on and start messing with the lines to get them all positioned as you like. This takes a little planning and bending but its up to you on how you want to route everything.
-Once the lines are in place bolt them down with the banjo bolts and gaskets
-Figure out how you want to run your VAC lines and connect all those
-And now basically just put everything back together.
This is a very rough list on what to do. There are small steps missing but you will figure tha out as you go. These are all the main steps. Little things can, and will go wrong or delay your progress. Its normal and part of the swap.
Good luck sir!
Basically:
-Remove Intake
-Remove Upper CP
-Optional:Remove VC to give you some more room to play with
-Clamp coolant hoses
-Unbolt and remove DP(trust me, its easier with it out of the way,some choose to leave it hanging there)
-Disconnect the breather lines
-Disconnect O2 wiring harness
-Remove heat shielding(kinda a PITA lol)
-Once DP is removed you will have to remove the support bracket and arm down by the turbo
-Unbolt and disconnect all lines
-Loosen the nuts that hold the turbo in place but do not remove(just so you have some play)
-This is where you need to decide whether you are going to try and take the turbo out through the bottom or the top with the O2 on or off. I tried both with the O2 housing still on and for the life of me, I could not find a way to get the whole damn thing out via top or bottom. So I undid the nuts that hold the housing to the turbo and once they were separated it was a piece of cake to remove them separately from one another, you have to do this anyway to bolt it onto the BNR. Maybe someone else has a better way...???
-Once its out you want to pull the ring gaskets out of each end of the O2 housing and replace them with the new ones I told you to buy. One end is the DP and the other is the turbo. IF THIS IS NOT DONE YOU RUN THE RISK OF A LEAK. It happened to me man, better to be safe than sorry and have to do all this **** again like me. Leak at the DP, not too big of a adeal but annoying and easy to fix. Leak at the turbo? LOL sucks ass big time!
-Put the spacer that BNR provides in place with the two new stock turbo mani gaskets I told you to get too. This is straight forward: gasket---spacer---gasket.
-With the new ring gaskets in place position the turbo and O2 housing back behind the engine and bolt them back together tightly and evenly.
-Then bolt the turbo back on and start messing with the lines to get them all positioned as you like. This takes a little planning and bending but its up to you on how you want to route everything.
-Once the lines are in place bolt them down with the banjo bolts and gaskets
-Figure out how you want to run your VAC lines and connect all those
-And now basically just put everything back together.
This is a very rough list on what to do. There are small steps missing but you will figure tha out as you go. These are all the main steps. Little things can, and will go wrong or delay your progress. Its normal and part of the swap.
Good luck sir!
Ive got the pistons and supertech kit
Even though this turbo is more efficient at making that kind of power than the K04 is, your still pushing the stock pistons kinda hard at these power levels.
update. got the BOV on. it works awesome.
before i post the pic, i know it looks super ghetto right now. lol. i promise it isnt as bad as it looks, just a shitty pic and i didnt even clean it up yet (didnt cut zip ties or remove the bar code off that recirc tube)
the welds are as bad as they look however. lol. luckily i paid 0 for them. the guy that did it was so disappointed in himself he refused my money. so that saved me about 50 bucks or so
before i post the pic, i know it looks super ghetto right now. lol. i promise it isnt as bad as it looks, just a shitty pic and i didnt even clean it up yet (didnt cut zip ties or remove the bar code off that recirc tube)
the welds are as bad as they look however. lol. luckily i paid 0 for them. the guy that did it was so disappointed in himself he refused my money. so that saved me about 50 bucks or so
Well see. And im going to cover the welds with quick steel and sand it down smooth. Probably paint it black too.
U guys know me im going to make it look as clean as I can.
U guys know me im going to make it look as clean as I can.
is it going to be to atmosphere after you get the tune?
It sounds good. Its pretty quiet when just driving normal and under full boost it sounds awesome. Similar to a greddy type s without the whistle, and quieter.
If u want it to look good grind the welds and then quick steel it. You will have a mound of it to cover those welds. I hope that's not the guys daily job lol
