Update to engine noise.
Well I work at a dealer, so I had access to them. However I asked the parts manager, and he said that they could order them and he dont see why someone couldnt buy them. I replaced the whole exhaust side, so 8 rollers and 8 lash adjusters, which came to about 160.00 dealer cost. Now if you would do it over the winter and took it apart and then just got what was wrong it would be alot cheaper. But it is nice knowing it is all new.
Have you looked inside the cylinder with a borescope or some similar tool to see if it's a valve that contacted the piston? If a valve hit a piston hard enough to break a roller, I don't see how the valve could survive to that. However, your failure looks like a failure in the base material.
i have some second clicking noise, basically i hear the DI clicking, then a second more metallic click about 1 sec apart in the background. Is that the noise? Ill be willing to make a video (hopefully the sound can be heard) if anyone is interested.
here is the link to the video, sorry its dark out and right at the end you can kinda see me point to the spot where i hear the noise, well where i think i hear it, the sound is a click about .8 seconds apart and you can hear it well in the video.
http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s...t=DSCN1118.flv
here is the link to the video, sorry its dark out and right at the end you can kinda see me point to the spot where i hear the noise, well where i think i hear it, the sound is a click about .8 seconds apart and you can hear it well in the video.
http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s...t=DSCN1118.flv
Last edited by Joemann892; Sep 29, 2009 at 07:34 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
i have some second clicking noise, basically i hear the DI clicking, then a second more metallic click about 1 sec apart in the background. Is that the noise? Ill be willing to make a video (hopefully the sound can be heard) if anyone is interested.
here is the link to the video, sorry its dark out and right at the end you can kinda see me point to the spot where i hear the noise, well where i think i hear it, the sound is a click about .8 seconds apart and you can hear it well in the video.
http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s...t=DSCN1118.flv
here is the link to the video, sorry its dark out and right at the end you can kinda see me point to the spot where i hear the noise, well where i think i hear it, the sound is a click about .8 seconds apart and you can hear it well in the video.
http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s...t=DSCN1118.flv
Here is what mine sounded like.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXiTV5_7KWA
Last edited by cmiller8006; Sep 29, 2009 at 08:17 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
yeah it didnt sound like something was wrong with my car, but i didnt notice that noise at 8k miles im pretty sure about that, but now at almost 14k i have been hearing it since 12k from what i know of. It does sound a bit different than others.
Yea, I dont think you have a problem. Did you by chance take the foam cover off the DI high pressure pump?
Well I work at a dealer, so I had access to them. However I asked the parts manager, and he said that they could order them and he dont see why someone couldnt buy them. I replaced the whole exhaust side, so 8 rollers and 8 lash adjusters, which came to about 160.00 dealer cost. Now if you would do it over the winter and took it apart and then just got what was wrong it would be alot cheaper. But it is nice knowing it is all new.
If I took it in and paid to have it fixed myself (assuming no warranty if I did something to make it break), how much would you estimate on parts+labor just for the one broken part?
I can't pull up the videos to compare cars, but a couple random thoughts. When you first start the car you'll get the rapid double-tick as the direct injection setup is firing the injectors twice per ignition cycle to help warm up the cat faster (the normal one near TDC (top dead center) of the piston travel and also on the intake stroke). Second, as mentioned there is a foam insulation block on the later cars designed to better subdue the high-pressure, direct injection pump noise. The early cars only received a cardboard-like sound dampener that doesn't work as well and will be subsequently noisier.
On the question of cams, remember that the LNF engine drives the mechanical high-pressure pump for the direct injection system off the end of the intake camshaft, so that may limit aftermarket camshaft upgrades. Even if you did upgrade cams you'd also want to address the variable valve timing which was optimized for stock camshafts to ensure best gains.
A lot of people seem to be worried about "odd" noises on this engine and most of the time it is operating normally. Unfortunately sometimes a manufacturing defect slips through or there are other reasons something fails. If you're worried about the car take it into the dealer and at least have them check it out. Worst case if something fails later on you have some paperwork trail showing you brought it to their attention.
Also for the people wanting to check it out for themselves, tracking down and finding sources of noises can be extremely difficult to pinpoint. I'd highly recommend picking up an automotive stethoscope and using that to track down the source of what you're hearing. For example, to the naked ear I've seen other cars that sound exactly like they have a rod knock but nearly all the time it turns out to be a water pump that just happens to have a very similar sound.
On the question of cams, remember that the LNF engine drives the mechanical high-pressure pump for the direct injection system off the end of the intake camshaft, so that may limit aftermarket camshaft upgrades. Even if you did upgrade cams you'd also want to address the variable valve timing which was optimized for stock camshafts to ensure best gains.
A lot of people seem to be worried about "odd" noises on this engine and most of the time it is operating normally. Unfortunately sometimes a manufacturing defect slips through or there are other reasons something fails. If you're worried about the car take it into the dealer and at least have them check it out. Worst case if something fails later on you have some paperwork trail showing you brought it to their attention.
Also for the people wanting to check it out for themselves, tracking down and finding sources of noises can be extremely difficult to pinpoint. I'd highly recommend picking up an automotive stethoscope and using that to track down the source of what you're hearing. For example, to the naked ear I've seen other cars that sound exactly like they have a rod knock but nearly all the time it turns out to be a water pump that just happens to have a very similar sound.
I know you can rent tools from auto zone, if they have the right tools then I would say yes. Just have to call
I would say between 250-300.00 all said and done.
Well, your video basically sounds just like my sound. It's not the DI for sure... it's even on the completely opposite side in my case. There the DI sound, there's another DI sound that comes and goes as you let it sit, and then there's this sound.
If I took it in and paid to have it fixed myself (assuming no warranty if I did something to make it break), how much would you estimate on parts+labor just for the one broken part?
If I took it in and paid to have it fixed myself (assuming no warranty if I did something to make it break), how much would you estimate on parts+labor just for the one broken part?
Last edited by cmiller8006; Sep 30, 2009 at 11:10 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
There is a name. There are three tools. But I will have to check at work tomarrow, I dont remember. One is to load the chain tensioner back up, one holds the cam acuator and one holds the timing chain itself. I will get the names tomarrow.
For the springs question, yes, I believe that you can use any Ecotec spring in the LNF, they are all the same (of course you want to make sure you are upgrading).
As for cams, there are some in development or will be soon. I will be helping in development of some this winter for a company. Also, Comp Cams says they have some that will work in our car, even with the 5th lobe for the fuel pump. The major thing holding us back is tuning for them. I may skip out of the development of the cams if we don't get more tuning available this winter. Its pathetic how slow HPT is going with this.
As for cams, there are some in development or will be soon. I will be helping in development of some this winter for a company. Also, Comp Cams says they have some that will work in our car, even with the 5th lobe for the fuel pump. The major thing holding us back is tuning for them. I may skip out of the development of the cams if we don't get more tuning available this winter. Its pathetic how slow HPT is going with this.
For the springs question, yes, I believe that you can use any Ecotec spring in the LNF, they are all the same (of course you want to make sure you are upgrading).
As for cams, there are some in development or will be soon. I will be helping in development of some this winter for a company. Also, Comp Cams says they have some that will work in our car, even with the 5th lobe for the fuel pump. The major thing holding us back is tuning for them. I may skip out of the development of the cams if we don't get more tuning available this winter. Its pathetic how slow HPT is going with this.
As for cams, there are some in development or will be soon. I will be helping in development of some this winter for a company. Also, Comp Cams says they have some that will work in our car, even with the 5th lobe for the fuel pump. The major thing holding us back is tuning for them. I may skip out of the development of the cams if we don't get more tuning available this winter. Its pathetic how slow HPT is going with this.
Oh, I am sure that is part of the deal. I think I may still go through it, because nothing beats free, I am going to have the head apart doing springs anyway, and the rest of the car will be out at a different shop getting some other stuff done, so my car will be a development ***** this winter, lol.
Oh, I am sure that is part of the deal. I think I may still go through it, because nothing beats free, I am going to have the head apart doing springs anyway, and the rest of the car will be out at a different shop getting some other stuff done, so my car will be a development ***** this winter, lol.
The tool names are cam phaser retainer and timing chain retainer. And guess what. Just fixed the car, lowered the rev limiter and went to the track and already have the same problem in the same spot. So valvesprings this winter. I must have a weak one. But the part numbers are, 12572638 for the lash adjuster and 12565203 for the rocker arm.


