Update to engine noise.
#1
Update to engine noise.
For those who was following the engine noise I was having. We thought it was a broken lifter, but after we took it apart and finally got a look, it ended up being a broken roller follower. Good thing it didnt come completly apart and take out my cam. Here is a couple pics.
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i think i have the same problem. how hard was that to get out?
because i have this clatter that gets faster when i increase the rpms and i can hear it inside while im driving
because i have this clatter that gets faster when i increase the rpms and i can hear it inside while im driving
Last edited by MoePwR; 09-28-2009 at 12:24 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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For those who was following the engine noise I was having. We thought it was a broken lifter, but after we took it apart and finally got a look, it ended up being a broken roller follower. Good thing it didnt come completly apart and take out my cam. Here is a couple pics.
#11
When the noise started it was just over 12000 miles.
Definitly got faster with rpms, however did not get louder, and was barley noticable in the cab. Only took about 3 hours total, but to do it in that time you need special tools from a GM shop that holds the cams and holds the timing chain so it dont fall into the motor. I wish I would of took more pics, but we got going and I didnt even think about it.
No it wouldnt, took the pin out and looked at the bearings and they were all worn down, so probably wouldnt be much longer before it came apart.
Redline was 7000, but I have dropped it down to 6700. Which sucks because now I have to hit fourth at the track lol.
Ummm, yea that aint good.
Redline was 7000, but I have dropped it down to 6700. Which sucks because now I have to hit fourth at the track lol.
Ummm, yea that aint good.
Last edited by cmiller8006; 09-28-2009 at 03:51 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#12
Interesting. I've been hearing something like a second tick coming from behind where the manifold meets the engine, on the side opposite of the fuel regulator. I'm worried it might be something like this now. I'll have to keep an eye on it now.
#13
No CEL's, that is do to having dual valves. If it was a single valve there would have been.
Mine was on the exhaust cam side, the fathest one toward the drivers side. But I guess it can happen anywhere.
Mine was on the exhaust cam side, the fathest one toward the drivers side. But I guess it can happen anywhere.
Last edited by cmiller8006; 09-28-2009 at 03:58 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#14
Yeah, this one's at the front, passenger side. Well I guess I can be slightly comforted, but still wondering about it. I wonder too if it could be related to the cam driven fuel pump. I'm not sure if that would create a noise someplace other than the fuel regulator area.
#15
Yeah, this one's at the front, passenger side. Well I guess I can be slightly comforted, but still wondering about it. I wonder too if it could be related to the cam driven fuel pump. I'm not sure if that would create a noise someplace other than the fuel regulator area.
#16
Yea I am still trying to figure out what caused my problem. My buddie thinks it was a defect and would have happened no matter what, which I agree. But my brother thinks that either the valve stuck at high rpms and smacked the roller, or that there is a weak spring on that valve.
I wonder how much better valve springs are for the LNF... I hear that's a good thing to look into anyway if you're planning on spinning 7k+ RPM (which I personally am not, but it wouldn't hurt to have better springs).
#17
Well, if we're going to be opening up the engine, might as well upgrade things while we're in there...
I wonder how much better valve springs are for the LNF... I hear that's a good thing to look into anyway if you're planning on spinning 7k+ RPM (which I personally am not, but it wouldn't hurt to have better springs).
I wonder how much better valve springs are for the LNF... I hear that's a good thing to look into anyway if you're planning on spinning 7k+ RPM (which I personally am not, but it wouldn't hurt to have better springs).
#22
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Any spring for any Ecotec will work. Same with valves. So, you can get some good deals on some decent springs. I have been thinking about building my head this winter... But I wouldn't mind saving up and doing it all when we can get cams, then i can do port/polish/cams/springs at once.
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Any spring for any Ecotec will work. Same with valves. So, you can get some good deals on some decent springs. I have been thinking about building my head this winter... But I wouldn't mind saving up and doing it all when we can get cams, then i can do port/polish/cams/springs at once.
Last edited by Mike08ss/tc; 09-29-2009 at 10:59 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#25
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Not quite any valve for any Ecotec. If you use an exhaust valve specified for a naturally aspirated engine it may or may not be able to withstand the much higher combustion exhaust gas temps seen in a turbocharged application. That's why the stock LNF uses sodium-filled valve stems in order to help dissipate heat.