2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

upgrades 2010 Tc/ss

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Old 08-15-2012, 06:53 AM
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upgrades 2010 Tc/ss

hey

looking for advice on stock upgrades and minimal changes. i like to due a factory tune.

my plan is too upgrade to k&drop, add the factory stage one kit and then have the dealer tune it.
I want to keep it stock looking to show the car is mint 12k miles and sits garaged most of the time. I basically looking to squeeze out what i can with out going to major mods that must be removed for warranty, etc - such as a down tube.

from what i read the air filter mod will make little difference since i am doing i mild tune looking for 300hp and 320 torque, wider band from the stage one kit, higher rpm too - i never use no lift shift after 30 years of manuals.

the launch control, seems only good for melting tires amd making smoke?

cat inspection is part of the emmisions crap here even though we pass they did not remove the emmission contol - we pass epa - gov sucks! would a down tube to the stock cats help any?

would full k&n cold air kit help? what about finning the hood at the air filter - small ram? i may paint the hood anyways? i suprised there is no carbon hoods with air scoop and fins for cooling and cold air ramming?

i saw a rear sway bar - i did both on my V-9 5.7l 1973 datuson 240z, alos went to delrin/aluminum busing from rubber - i see lots of people with bushing issues. - do they do that still?

bigger front anti sway bar>? handles so well why mess with it.

tires, i like to go too 45's since the roads are so so bad here just too reduce the bumping maybe a little longer life then 12k got out of my stock tires.

thx for any suggestions!!! i know i have a lot of questions in there, i have max $3-4k budget but i like to keep on the under 3 side.

thx russ
crown point in, victory red 2010 ss

if see some one in red ss going 120 on 94/294 in chicago thats meet i have not lost yet! old snakes are dogs!
Old 08-15-2012, 07:19 AM
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if by down tube, you mean down pipe, I don't think you'll find a down pipe that's only the length between the turbo and the cats and there would be no gains anyway because most of the restriction comes from the two factory cats and the O2 sensor bung. you can get an aftermarket down pipe with high flow cats that would probably pass inspection. a down pipe shouldn't void your factory powertrain warranty but the dealership could refuse to do some warranty work and it obviously will void your emissions warranty.

rear sway bars significantly reduce understeer. I definitely recommend it. I've never tried a front anti roll bar but I would imagine it would negate the oversteer effect from the rear bar. you'll reduce roll overall so there'll be some gains there. I would prefer the quicker turn in with only a rear bar tho.

max recommended tire size with stock wheels is 235 so if you want to go 245, you should probably get wider wheels.

and I highly doubt you're going to get 300 hp and 320 tq with gms1 and no custom tune. maybe at the crank but definitely not at the wheels. highest I've seen on this site was hp in the 270's and tq in the 290's
Old 08-15-2012, 11:46 AM
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290's[/QUOTE]


thx for the response!

q1-6) I am very interested in your set up, it is with stock stage 1 but aftermarket exhust - did gm due the tune? after the exhaust and cat's installed? what was the cost of your exact set up (parts other i know stage 1 is grand with me doing the install) since it is similar - you have bigger exhaust and freer flow cats. Do you also have loud free flow muffler? my one question is like to keep the sound down - ii like the sleeper stock sound. What if i did something close too you but with moderate muffler - if such a thing exists?

i meant 45 aspect vs stock 40's for a higher tire and one that would absorb more bumps, only had one under steer scare. i found out the hard way my .96/.98 g's are .7-.5 when it is cold in one the few really twist roads here - i almost went strait on hard 90 - i think i was 55 g's when i caught grip. it is all oak trees the entire run - ouch! at 50 60 mph. What you think going to 45 tire i do not mind a few g's lost.

THANKS FOR THE REAR SWAY BAR ADVICE - I NEED THAT!

i am confused, i would only gain 10h-20hp and 30-40 torque with stock stage one and a k&n? i might have too rethink this stock stage 1, stock is 260/260. wHAT DO YOU GET?

i know the stage one shifts the power band to wider range which is what i am really after, plus higher rev = my wives regal revs past red unlike the ss that shuts off. i actually shift by speed on the big read out on multi gauge - tach is too small and need my eyes on the road the way i drive. i like too kiss bumpers by few inch miss.

Last edited by dragonsprayer; 08-15-2012 at 12:00 PM. Reason: add
Old 08-15-2012, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by theamericanautos
if by down tube, you mean down pipe, I don't think you'll find a down pipe that's only the length between the turbo and the cats and there would be no gains anyway because most of the restriction comes from the two factory cats and the O2 sensor bung. you can get an aftermarket down pipe with high flow cats that would probably pass inspection. a down pipe shouldn't void your factory powertrain warranty but the dealership could refuse to do some warranty work and it obviously will void your emissions warranty.

rear sway bars significantly reduce understeer. I definitely recommend it. I've never tried a front anti roll bar but I would imagine it would negate the oversteer effect from the rear bar. you'll reduce roll overall so there'll be some gains there. I would prefer the quicker turn in with only a rear bar tho.

max recommended tire size with stock wheels is 235 so if you want to go 245, you should probably get wider wheels.

and I highly doubt you're going to get 300 hp and 320 tq with gms1 and no custom tune. maybe at the crank but definitely not at the wheels. highest I've seen on this site was hp in the 270's and tq in the 290's

^ That's GMS1 stock. There's a dyno thread on here with plenty of GMS1 cars with bolt ons between 280 and 290 hp. There were even some in the low 300's, but they were fully bolted.

My recommendation is K&N Sri, a high flow catted down pipe, and the GM Stage 1. I think you'll be quite happy and your warranty should still be decently safe.
Old 08-15-2012, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by dragonsprayer

thx for the response!

q1-6) I am very interested in your set up, it is with stock stage 1 but aftermarket exhust - did gm due the tune? after the exhaust and cat's installed? what was the cost of your exact set up (parts other i know stage 1 is grand with me doing the install) since it is similar - you have bigger exhaust and freer flow cats. Do you also have loud free flow muffler? my one question is like to keep the sound down - ii like the sleeper stock sound. What if i did something close too you but with moderate muffler - if such a thing exists?

i meant 45 aspect vs stock 40's for a higher tire and one that would absorb more bumps, only had one under steer scare. i found out the hard way my .96/.98 g's are .7-.5 when it is cold in one the few really twist roads here - i almost went strait on hard 90 - i think i was 55 g's when i caught grip. it is all oak trees the entire run - ouch! at 50 60 mph. What you think going to 45 tire i do not mind a few g's lost.

THANKS FOR THE REAR SWAY BAR ADVICE - I NEED THAT!

i am confused, i would only gain 10h-20hp and 30-40 torque with stock stage one and a k&n? i might have too rethink this stock stage 1, stock is 260/260. wHAT DO YOU GET?

i know the stage one shifts the power band to wider range which is what i am really after, plus higher rev = my wives regal revs past red unlike the ss that shuts off. i actually shift by speed on the big read out on multi gauge - tach is too small and need my eyes on the road the way i drive. i like too kiss bumpers by few inch miss.
GMS1 tune isn't custom. it's a canned tune so you don't need to tune after modifications. I got all my mods after GMS1 was tuned. my setup was definitely louder than stock but not too loud. Turbo XS GT catback is barely louder than stock but sounds much better IMO. adding a high flow cat will open it up and make it noticeably louder so it won't sound stock but it's not too loud at all. I think you can get a Turbo XS cat back and down pipe for about $700 plus shipping (can't remember exactly) from turbotechracing.com and a K&N intake is about $250.

GMS1 should be about $500-600 from crate engine depot, not a grand.

stock is 260 hp at the crank and dyno around 230 whp so you gain about 30-40 hp with GMS1 without any mods. intake/dp/exhaust should be another 10-15 hp.

oh, okay. I wouldn't give up the g's tho unless I have to. I had 205/50/17's tires on 17" rims in the winter and I hated the loss in sharpness.. be careful if you go with a rear sway bar tho and go to 45's because a big rear sway bar will make the car a little tail happy and 45's will worsen that effect.

people who miss bumpers by few inches really bother me tho.. lol but yea, GMS1 makes the car a lot more alive. it adds hp and torque up top and widens the torque curve.

Originally Posted by AaronJ
^ That's GMS1 stock. There's a dyno thread on here with plenty of GMS1 cars with bolt ons between 280 and 290 hp. There were even some in the low 300's, but they were fully bolted.

My recommendation is K&N Sri, a high flow catted down pipe, and the GM Stage 1. I think you'll be quite happy and your warranty should still be decently safe.
he's only looking at simple mods tho. I don't think he'll be close to 300 whp with intake and exhaust.
Old 08-16-2012, 05:13 AM
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thx guys!!!!

ya i only pass by inches at similar speeds when opening happens, faster the difference the bigger the range - i like a few feet and more above 100. i had a few near misses by others when others try to keep up and almost crash into me or each other.

i usually suck them in, blow them away - let them catch up - then blow them away - zero loses 100 of runs up and down 294 in chicago from border to far north burbs.

my wife agrees - she drove once will not drive in SS again. i keep the regal under 100 when sloaming around the zombies on 65 from chicago to indy. regal turbo is blast - motor trend says best handling sedan - bad azz disc brakes and 6spd manual is slow but it is real nice in the 60-110 range

Last edited by dragonsprayer; 08-16-2012 at 05:15 AM. Reason: typo
Old 08-16-2012, 05:20 AM
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mod 1: so basically $500 for the stage 1 and $500 for the tune dealer only - $300 for the k$n

mod2: but i only get a little more from the cat down, new exhust and bigger cats which is &1300


i can expect about 290-300 engine hp and 300-320 torgue

then mod 2 i get 15hp and how much torque?

i wonder if i be better off with some tweaks on the outside - minor paint


-----------------

still do not get why there is no ram air hoods? i guess there is no gain? the k&n and pipes give all the air you need?

thx alot!
Old 08-16-2012, 12:03 PM
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if i was u, id get k&n intake, charge tubes and intercooler. downpipe would void warrenty with most dealers, the rest i mentioned would not. thats about as far as u can go with still keeping warrenty, well except for all the suspention stuff u said, wouldnt see a problem with those either
Old 08-16-2012, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by dragonsprayer
mod 1: so basically $500 for the stage 1 and $500 for the tune dealer only - $300 for the k$n

mod2: but i only get a little more from the cat down, new exhust and bigger cats which is &1300


i can expect about 290-300 engine hp and 300-320 torgue

then mod 2 i get 15hp and how much torque?

i wonder if i be better off with some tweaks on the outside - minor paint


-----------------

still do not get why there is no ram air hoods? i guess there is no gain? the k&n and pipes give all the air you need?

thx alot!
1: GMS1 is like 500 for the kit, and another 100-200 for the dealer to install/upload the tune. and K&N is like 240.

2: catless/cat'd downpipe is anywhere from 150-300, you dont need new exhaust, that does it s job. Tune your prolly looking at another 300-400

so idk where your getting some of these prices, the 2nd route will net you more power in the end, but void your warranty
Old 08-16-2012, 01:58 PM
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Do a catless dp, Sri, and tune. You won't be dissapointed. I've done this and did the installs myself rounding at about a grand or less. The car constantly pulls and it's unbelievable. Exhaust mods other than a dp are basically sound preferences, so that's up to you to mod that or not.

Dp $180
Sri $240
Tune $350

Done deal for a while cause I'm happy with performance.... For now.
Old 03-26-2013, 01:46 PM
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thx guys - they do a visual cat check with a miror and check the engine with your multi diagonstic plug/port no exhust testing.

1) i got get plates and pass - sucks we know no longer need testing but they, idiots in gov, decided it was too keep it in place - epa

2) warranty i want the 100k/6 yr i only have 12k seeing as i been driving my turbo regal then my wife got a ford fusion 4 banger stock and get too beat it free - free gas!!! Regal is fun with its slap stick on the hwy. Town it is little slow for my taste even feathering the gas. it hole shot once in while and lite it up.......

thx again - ya it is a garage and hwy queen NRA while you can!

looks like keep tires same size
k&n and install stage one myself then get tuned at the dealer unless there is some advantage with no cat work - deal does it my warrany is 100%. i got 2 kids in college - i want too keep it sell-able for stock collector


i get vette in a few yrs. actually plan on olding on this sleeper since so few stock ones will be left in a few years.

maybe i should sell both and get baby regal? kind of ugly for 30k
Old 03-26-2013, 01:49 PM
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I have a drop in air filter to sell yeah,

I did the same thing:


Stock to gms1 and drop in k&n... Took the gm tech who installed it for a rip. he drives a civic si.. He was shitting his pants!! Lol

You will love it
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