WB O2 sensor '08 SS/TC
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Joined: 07-25-08
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From: Florida
How long has it been since you cleared that code? It takes up to 500 miles or 3 consecutive key cycles for it to come back.
Same code all of us are getting.
Same code all of us are getting.
Last edited by Terminator2; Jan 26, 2010 at 01:22 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Senior Member
Joined: 07-25-08
Posts: 12,450
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From: Florida
Yea, thats the same code we're getting. I don't think it necc. means the O2 is bad.
Taken from Solstice Forum:
These codes are set when the output of the oxygen sensor sits at one or other of its voltage limits for an excessive amount of time or a length of time not normally experienced with a factory engine calibration. It's entirely possible that a custom tune (or other modification) could put the A/F ratio in a state, most likely rich, that the diagnostic system would interpret as a damaged circuit. For example, if the engine stays rich for an extended amount of time and there is 0% oxygen in the exhaust stream, the output of the O2 sensor would stay pegged and that could set the code. Of course, I can't say for sure that's what is happening, but it seems like a reasonable explanation.
http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...ode-gxp-35478/
I google'd the code trying to read more about it right now to come up with some sort of theory and then discuss further
I believe IamBroke was saying his would blank out after a long DFCO, which makes sense according to that explanation above. But I dont get why mine would blank out on a part throttle accel then
Taken from Solstice Forum:
These codes are set when the output of the oxygen sensor sits at one or other of its voltage limits for an excessive amount of time or a length of time not normally experienced with a factory engine calibration. It's entirely possible that a custom tune (or other modification) could put the A/F ratio in a state, most likely rich, that the diagnostic system would interpret as a damaged circuit. For example, if the engine stays rich for an extended amount of time and there is 0% oxygen in the exhaust stream, the output of the O2 sensor would stay pegged and that could set the code. Of course, I can't say for sure that's what is happening, but it seems like a reasonable explanation.
http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...ode-gxp-35478/
I google'd the code trying to read more about it right now to come up with some sort of theory and then discuss further
I believe IamBroke was saying his would blank out after a long DFCO, which makes sense according to that explanation above. But I dont get why mine would blank out on a part throttle accel then
They refused to fix mine they said my high flow exhaust was flowing too much air over the sensor which I do not believe is the issue since cars with stock exhaust will throw this code as well.
Last edited by Terminator2; Jan 26, 2010 at 01:36 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Joined: 07-25-08
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From: Florida
The only thing that worries me is that when it stops reading and throws that code the A/F it stays stuck at 1.00 lamba (14.7 A/F) at WOT which scares me some. I wish it would unstick itself without having to turn the car off and back on or by reflashing the ECM. I want to know that the A/F is 13.0 at WOT like commaded.
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From: Chicagooooo
Dont know for sure but when im cruising like 70 on the highway the afr jums from 14.7 to like 15.1 it could be normal idk but before it would pretty much chill in the same spot. I dont have any codes popping or anything though. Never had it get stuck or anything.
Thats normal. You wont be able to tell from watching the Wideband reading, thats the issue, it will LOOK normal but read off. The only way to tell for sure is to view the Fuel Trims, or if you have the rough idle, usually a good tell!
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From: Florida
That is normal. If it jumps from 16.7 down to 13.1 it could be going bad. It will idle rough and will have part throttle misfires.
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Joined: 02-09-09
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From: Tejas
Before Christmas I took out the K&N and popped the stock filter in (unmodded box) and the idle improved just a bit, but the problem never went away. I don't think it's a MAF issue like oil on the MAF either because the issues happen are when they are reoiled, not fresh out of the box.
Senior Member
Joined: 07-25-08
Posts: 12,450
Likes: 6
From: Florida
That's like mine. It'll be chill for a while and then jump to 13s, 12s, or even upper 11s and then go lean in the 15s, 16s, and sometimes 17s and then return to normal and resume like nothing happened.. all in about two to three seconds.
Before Christmas I took out the K&N and popped the stock filter in (unmodded box) and the idle improved just a bit, but the problem never went away. I don't think it's a MAF issue like oil on the MAF either because the issues happen are when they are reoiled, not fresh out of the box.
Before Christmas I took out the K&N and popped the stock filter in (unmodded box) and the idle improved just a bit, but the problem never went away. I don't think it's a MAF issue like oil on the MAF either because the issues happen are when they are reoiled, not fresh out of the box.
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Joined: 02-09-09
Posts: 4,374
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From: Tejas