ZZP PCM vs GMS1 Question
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ZZP PCM vs GMS1 Question
I currently have an 09 SS/TC with GMS1. Thats all I have on the car atm. I am wondering if ordering a pcm from zzp with there canned tune on it would be any faster and more powerfull then my current GMS1 at all ?
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I actually did just that back in 2010 and it makes a LOT of difference. I never dyno'd the car on the ZZP ECU but seeing as my GMS1 tune was 285hp and my Term2 E85 tune 369hp, my butt-dyno tells me it was at least 320-ish. A lot more torque especially in 2nd and 3rd. I thought it was definitely worth it, especially with the 2nd ECU when I was still under warranty at the time ;-)
just be careful with 3rd gear
i know it's not going to bring on the power like a ZFR will but i still feel like these F35's are made of glass sometimes with any kind of torque and a decent clutch :/
i know it's not going to bring on the power like a ZFR will but i still feel like these F35's are made of glass sometimes with any kind of torque and a decent clutch :/
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Yeah stick to your stock clutch and don't put too sticky tires on like NT01's and you should be good. I tracked my car relentlessly and many times with that setup on the ZZP tune and never had any issues.
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So there is a noticeable difference between the GMS1 to the ZZP canned tune ? I would hate to spand the money , get the pcm and realize the zzp canned tune is the same power level of my current gms1.
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I don't know about the GMS1 tune.. but I just had got my car and thought what the hell lets go get it tuned at ZZP :P I did it in winter and they told me I'll notice a huge gain. I never really got to see what the car would do with out it... although I was passenger when the guy I was buying from took me 130 
tune set me at 13.31@107 at the track first time with car, damn nice upgrade!
tune set me at 13.31@107 at the track first time with car, damn nice upgrade!
interesting
i see why you are asking though. the dyno numbers advertised on the ZZP site aren't much higher than the numbers GMS1 makes on an average dyno.
i wonder if boost reduction in first would be recommended to save the transmission and or clutch?
i always heard that GMS1 numbers were the highest and safest way to go for power. i'm afraid to go any higher with power and start breaking things.
i see why you are asking though. the dyno numbers advertised on the ZZP site aren't much higher than the numbers GMS1 makes on an average dyno.i wonder if boost reduction in first would be recommended to save the transmission and or clutch?
i always heard that GMS1 numbers were the highest and safest way to go for power. i'm afraid to go any higher with power and start breaking things.
Last edited by Cobalt_Daddy; Apr 30, 2014 at 02:22 PM.
I would also recommend you get the k&n intake. I love the wonderful noises it makes. I talked to Matt at ZZP and he said the k&n is the most consistent intake to tune for, meaning it won't run like dog **** because they can set the tune up for it.
Also recommend a catless downpipe to really get the most out of it. Car is quiet until you hit the loud pedal. Well except for the first minute of start up
Also recommend a catless downpipe to really get the most out of it. Car is quiet until you hit the loud pedal. Well except for the first minute of start up
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Oddly enough I didn't notice that zzp posted or claimed any ho and torque numbers. I guess I will check again. :-). But what arebrhwy claiming ? With a Gms1 they are 280hp and 320trq for the cobalt ? So what did zzp claim ?
They do the boost reduction in first to save on stock clutch... when I took car over they asked that if I was on stock clutch. So I in turn got a more mild tune. Also whats the point of smoking tires in 1st?
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From a starting roll my car with gms1doesn't ever seem to smoke the tires in first. It might chirp a few times. From a dead stop it destroys them though. Even in second gear mycar sseemsto hook up and go. It rarely breaks loose in second when I go wot. Again very occasionally a chirp or two once it hits full boost around 4500rpm or so. Isn't that fairly normal for a gms1car ??
From a starting roll my car with gms1doesn't ever seem to smoke the tires in first. It might chirp a few times. From a dead stop it destroys them though. Even in second gear mycar sseemsto hook up and go. It rarely breaks loose in second when I go wot. Again very occasionally a chirp or two once it hits full boost around 4500rpm or so. Isn't that fairly normal for a gms1car ??
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From a starting roll my car with gms1doesn't ever seem to smoke the tires in first. It might chirp a few times. From a dead stop it destroys them though. Even in second gear mycar sseemsto hook up and go. It rarely breaks loose in second when I go wot. Again very occasionally a chirp or two once it hits full boost around 4500rpm or so. Isn't that fairly normal for a gms1car ??

I actually did just that back in 2010 and it makes a LOT of difference. I never dyno'd the car on the ZZP ECU but seeing as my GMS1 tune was 285hp and my Term2 E85 tune 369hp, my butt-dyno tells me it was at least 320-ish. A lot more torque especially in 2nd and 3rd. I thought it was definitely worth it, especially with the 2nd ECU when I was still under warranty at the time ;-)
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So your saying then that your car sounds to be about the same as mine ? Because mine will not all out roast the tires in second gear from a rolling start.
Although I understand a good hp tune and the these cars will then really start to break loose in second once tuned.
So your saying then that your car sounds to be about the same as mine ? Because mine will not all out roast the tires in second gear from a rolling start.
Although I understand a good hp tune and the these cars will then really start to break loose in second once tuned.
Although I understand a good hp tune and the these cars will then really start to break loose in second once tuned.
the canned tune doesn't require GMS1 tune as a base.
my GMS1 will break the tires loose from a roll if the pavement is slippery or smooth. usually it hooks up fine though.
ZZP LNF Turbo PCM:
•Raised rev limiter to 7000
•WOT fueling is revamped to provide a safe, flat air/fuel ratio at all RPMs
•Works with high flow cats, 420 code removed
•Torque abuse modes are modified to eliminate bog during WOT
•boost set to 22 PSI
•Cam phasing adjustments for wider powerband
•Proven HP gains shown in dyno chart
•Clutch relearn complete (so you do not need to)
"The ZZP PCM is backed by a company you can trust. Here at ZZP, we own our own chassis dyno ensuring the maximum performance on our products.
With just a tune, we can add about 40whp and 80 ft lbs. Typical dyno numbers are 280whp and 320-340 ft lbs depending on what clutch the car has. If the car has a stock clutch we reduce the torque a little to keep it from slipping."
my GMS1 made almost 270whp and on one pull almost 300wtq. so the ZZP tune will make about 10whp and 20wtq more if dyno's are comparable.
my GMS1 will break the tires loose from a roll if the pavement is slippery or smooth. usually it hooks up fine though.
ZZP LNF Turbo PCM:
•Raised rev limiter to 7000
•WOT fueling is revamped to provide a safe, flat air/fuel ratio at all RPMs
•Works with high flow cats, 420 code removed
•Torque abuse modes are modified to eliminate bog during WOT
•boost set to 22 PSI
•Cam phasing adjustments for wider powerband
•Proven HP gains shown in dyno chart
•Clutch relearn complete (so you do not need to)
"The ZZP PCM is backed by a company you can trust. Here at ZZP, we own our own chassis dyno ensuring the maximum performance on our products.
With just a tune, we can add about 40whp and 80 ft lbs. Typical dyno numbers are 280whp and 320-340 ft lbs depending on what clutch the car has. If the car has a stock clutch we reduce the torque a little to keep it from slipping."
my GMS1 made almost 270whp and on one pull almost 300wtq. so the ZZP tune will make about 10whp and 20wtq more if dyno's are comparable.


