1 Step Colder Plugs, Let's End The Confusion!
06-12-2006, 08:34 PM
#51
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The stock plugs that I removed were NGK-R, part number PFR6T/10G and they were gapped at .037. I checked the gap when I took them out. I don’t know if the dealer re-gapped them when they installed my Stage 2 kit.
This is what I do know; buy replacing my stock plugs with the NGK Iridium BKR7EIX plugs gapped at .030 out of the box, so far all of my problems went away. I am not sure if this is where they should be but its working for me. Also when I start my car up I no longer have that little pop / backfire when the engine catches.
At this point I am very happy with my end results. For more information on my problems that I had, see my post: New NGK Plugs Installed.
Thanks guys, I have learned a lot from this site.
This is what I do know; buy replacing my stock plugs with the NGK Iridium BKR7EIX plugs gapped at .030 out of the box, so far all of my problems went away. I am not sure if this is where they should be but its working for me. Also when I start my car up I no longer have that little pop / backfire when the engine catches.
At this point I am very happy with my end results. For more information on my problems that I had, see my post: New NGK Plugs Installed.
Thanks guys, I have learned a lot from this site.
06-12-2006, 09:24 PM
#52
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Originally Posted by rhanes216213
Matty,
You stated that you have yours gapped at .032 on your Mustang. Are running a supercharger on this Mustang?
You stated that you have yours gapped at .032 on your Mustang. Are running a supercharger on this Mustang?
Originally Posted by rhanes216213
The stock plugs that I removed were NGK-R, part number PFR6T/10G and they were gapped at .037. I checked the gap when I took them out. I don’t know if the dealer re-gapped them when they installed my Stage 2 kit.
I doubt if he gapped them. They most likely wouldn't touch the plugs or if they did would mention it...maybe.
06-13-2006, 08:31 AM
#55
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Originally Posted by Matty
NGK's website recommends a .040" gap for a stock SS\SC using BRK6E's.
If the theory for added boost = closer gap, then .035" sounds like a good place to put the gap.
If the theory for added boost = closer gap, then .035" sounds like a good place to put the gap.
This still isn't cleared up. We still need the real answer...
. This will done this weekend. We shall see what type of changes I see. I am guessing none.
06-13-2006, 08:44 AM
#57
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mine are currently at .45 with a 2.85 and bolt ons, car is very strong, im gonan see if i can tell a difference with them gapped at .40, no hesitations or bogging.
06-13-2006, 08:46 AM
#58
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Originally Posted by distillion
mine are currently at .45 with a 2.85 and bolt ons, car is very strong, im gonan see if i can tell a difference with them gapped at .40, no hesitations or bogging.
I'm going to try .45 and then .40 and see what happens. Do you guys prep your plugs with gas or anything before putting them back in?
06-13-2006, 08:50 AM
#59
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i think if you go .40 or .45 it will smooth things out a little, but when i put my smaller pulley on i never felt any more lag or hesitation at all, the plugs helped, the pulley made the biggest difference though for my car.
06-13-2006, 08:56 AM
#60
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Originally Posted by distillion
i think if you go .40 or .45 it will smooth things out a little, but when i put my smaller pulley on i never felt any more lag or hesitation at all, the plugs helped, the pulley made the biggest difference though for my car.
When we do find the real answers I will update the thread again to help all the others.
06-13-2006, 10:46 AM
#63
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Originally Posted by OniMirage
grrrrrrrrrrr this sucks I want an answer that is at least close to definitive jumping around changing gaps is stupid
I know bro that's why I made this thread. I hope we will find the answer. We need more input from the vets!
06-13-2006, 10:48 AM
#64
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Originally Posted by CTCOBALTSSS
I know bro that's why I made this thread. I hope we will find the answer. We need more input from the vets!
... (i know stupid joke
)
06-13-2006, 11:14 AM
#65
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Originally Posted by OniMirage
but my pet isn't sick ... (i know stupid joke )
... (i know stupid joke ) Nice! I'm going to try some different gaps tonight. We'll see what happens. This doesn't help everyone though just the people with similar mods to me. We need to know what the gaps are for each application.
06-13-2006, 11:55 AM
#66
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Originally Posted by CTCOBALTSSS
Why does NGK's website recomend gapping the plugs at .35 when Intense recomends .45?
This still isn't cleared up. We still need the real answer...
This still isn't cleared up. We still need the real answer...
NGK recommends .040" for stock.
The theory is supposed to be if you go to a smaller peulley ie. more boost, then the gap should be dropped. If NGK is correct and .040 is good then a .005 drop to .035 should be alright.
The only way to be sure what is right for any one car is to try different gaps, run it for a day and see how it responds.
I ripped around yesterday for about an hour and near the end of the day it seemed a little better.
06-13-2006, 04:55 PM
#67
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Spark plugs are typically designed to have a spark gap which can be adjusted by the technician installing the spark plug, by the simple mechanism of bending the ground electrode slightly to bring it closer to or further from the center electrode. The somewhat common belief that plugs are properly gapped as delivered in their box from the factory is incorrect, as proved by the fact that the same plug may be specified for several different engines, requiring a different gap for each. A spark plug gap gauge with round wires of precise diameters is used to measure the gap; use of a feeler gauge with flat blades instead of round wires, as is used on distributor points or valve lash, will give erroneous results, due to the shape of spark plug electrodes. The simplest gauges are a collection of keys of various thicknesses which match the desired gaps and the gap is adjusted until the key fits snugly. With current engine technology, universally incorporating solid state ignitions and computerized fuel injection, the gaps used are much larger than in the era of carburetors and breaker point distributors, to the extent that spark plug gauges from that era are much too small for measuring the gaps of current cars.
This adjustment can be fairly critical, and if it is maladjusted the engine may run badly, or not at all. A narrow gap may give too small and weak a spark to effectively ignite the fuel-air mixture, while a gap which is too wide may be too wide for a spark to fire at all. Either way, a spark which only intermittently fails to ignite the fuel-air mixture may not be noticeable directly, but will show up as a reduction in the engine's power and fuel efficiency. As the plug ages and the metal of the tip erodes, the gap will tend to widen; therefore experienced mechanics often set the gap on a set of new plugs at the engine manufacturer's minimum recommended gap rather than in the center of the specified acceptable range, to ensure longer life between plug changes. On the other hand, since a larger gap gives a "hotter" or "fatter" spark and more reliable ignition of the fuel-air mixture, and since a new plug with sharp edges on the center electrode will spark more reliably than an older, eroded plug, experienced mechanics also realize that the maximum gap specified by the engine manufacturer is the largest which will spark reliably even with old plugs, and will in fact be a bit narrower than necessary to ensure sparking with new plugs; therefore, it is possible to set the plugs to an extremely wide gap for more reliable ignition in high performance applications, at the cost of having to replace and/or regap the plugs much more frequently, as soon as the tip begins to erode.
This adjustment can be fairly critical, and if it is maladjusted the engine may run badly, or not at all. A narrow gap may give too small and weak a spark to effectively ignite the fuel-air mixture, while a gap which is too wide may be too wide for a spark to fire at all. Either way, a spark which only intermittently fails to ignite the fuel-air mixture may not be noticeable directly, but will show up as a reduction in the engine's power and fuel efficiency. As the plug ages and the metal of the tip erodes, the gap will tend to widen; therefore experienced mechanics often set the gap on a set of new plugs at the engine manufacturer's minimum recommended gap rather than in the center of the specified acceptable range, to ensure longer life between plug changes. On the other hand, since a larger gap gives a "hotter" or "fatter" spark and more reliable ignition of the fuel-air mixture, and since a new plug with sharp edges on the center electrode will spark more reliably than an older, eroded plug, experienced mechanics also realize that the maximum gap specified by the engine manufacturer is the largest which will spark reliably even with old plugs, and will in fact be a bit narrower than necessary to ensure sparking with new plugs; therefore, it is possible to set the plugs to an extremely wide gap for more reliable ignition in high performance applications, at the cost of having to replace and/or regap the plugs much more frequently, as soon as the tip begins to erode.
06-13-2006, 05:09 PM
#68
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Maybe this explaination is over simplistic but I just got home from work.
A wider gap is better in that the spark has a better chance of hitting more molecules of fuel but a wider gap is not necessarily the answer. The problem is that a wider gap and or higher compression puts more load on the coil and at some point will cause the coil to fail. This point is usually well beyond the conditions the stock engine can create. The gap should be the same for the colder plug but with that said I'm curious why you need colder plugs. The reason for going to a colder plug is usualy because the plug is heating up to the point that it is causing the fuel to prematurely ignite which causes a knocking or pinging.
On another topic, don't waste time racing the following vehicles as they are not fast. I know this because I have seen some guy who looked like me with a car just like mine, (Cobalt SS/SC), race them and won.
1. Audi A4 2.0T - Lost by about 6 lengths
2. VW Beetle - Lost by about 7 Lengths
3. Bread Truck - Not even worth mention.... And yet I have. LOL
A wider gap is better in that the spark has a better chance of hitting more molecules of fuel but a wider gap is not necessarily the answer. The problem is that a wider gap and or higher compression puts more load on the coil and at some point will cause the coil to fail. This point is usually well beyond the conditions the stock engine can create. The gap should be the same for the colder plug but with that said I'm curious why you need colder plugs. The reason for going to a colder plug is usualy because the plug is heating up to the point that it is causing the fuel to prematurely ignite which causes a knocking or pinging.
On another topic, don't waste time racing the following vehicles as they are not fast. I know this because I have seen some guy who looked like me with a car just like mine, (Cobalt SS/SC), race them and won.
1. Audi A4 2.0T - Lost by about 6 lengths
2. VW Beetle - Lost by about 7 Lengths
3. Bread Truck - Not even worth mention.... And yet I have. LOL
06-13-2006, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by OniMirage
hmm so then platinum bosch 4 points would be better than iridium single points since the spark finds the least amount of resistance making a more reliable spark?
06-13-2006, 05:21 PM
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Question for you guys that just posted all the great info...when you're gapping and testing them out, is it better to start high and work down or start low and work up when getting to the best gap for your car?
06-13-2006, 05:24 PM
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from plug to plug type or hardness I believe it is best to stick with the stock settings regardless of added power. Your distrbutor determines when the spark gets it charge and the plug just sparks when it receives that charge thats what I am getting out of this anyway
06-13-2006, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Matty
In an hour or so,I am getting a set of the NGK Platinum plugs and going with a .040" gap.
Just to see if it makes a difference .
Just to see if it makes a difference .