171 lean condition
171 lean condition
I can't find my thread that I posted so just so you guys know I threw a code 171 after driving my car without and any problems for 300 miles then the light came on. Well I went to see my friend at a saturn dealer and It was a 171 code. He said it had a lean condition. Well I took off the K&N and checked everything I didn't see anything wrong with the install so I put it back in. I hope I don't have to remove it for good. I should just stick to moding my TA.
Joe
Joe
Double check all of your connections.
Trying to start your car with a lean condition will prove more and more difficult as it gets colder.
My car is throwing a lean code right now for no reason whatsoever. You may notice some irregular idling on a cold start. If you experience this, give the engine a rev to about 4k and it will normalize.
Trying to start your car with a lean condition will prove more and more difficult as it gets colder.
My car is throwing a lean code right now for no reason whatsoever. You may notice some irregular idling on a cold start. If you experience this, give the engine a rev to about 4k and it will normalize.
IS THE COBALT SS A MAF SNESOR CAR ?.......if it is then what is likely happening is the oil from your K+N filter has contaminated your MAF wire...........this is very common with MAF car using a K+N...........all you have to do is remove the MAF and carefully clean the wires inside with a q-tip and alchohol...................when you MAF wire is contaminated it wont read the accurate volume of incoming air, once the MAF is dirty it wont take long for your ECU to reference MAF signal vs O2 readings and throw a CEL....................
Originally Posted by Maximus
IS THE COBALT SS A MAF SNESOR CAR ?.......if it is then what is likely happening is the oil from your K+N filter has contaminated your MAF wire...........this is very common with MAF car using a K+N...........all you have to do is remove the MAF and carefully clean the wires inside with a q-tip and alchohol...................when you MAF wire is contaminated it wont read the accurate volume of incoming air, once the MAF is dirty it wont take long for your ECU to reference MAF signal vs O2 readings and throw a CEL....................
I'm at college now so I don't have time to get it checked out; I need to soon though.
Originally Posted by MarcS
I have a stock filter so It's not an oil problem.
I'm at college now so I don't have time to get it checked out; I need to soon though.
I'm at college now so I don't have time to get it checked out; I need to soon though.
There is a bulletin out now for replacement of the factory air filter. Pleats/creases are too tight. Your friend at Saturn should be able to get the info. from SI.
Originally Posted by NJBLUESS
There is a bulletin out now for replacement of the factory air filter. Pleats/creases are too tight. Your friend at Saturn should be able to get the info. from SI.
, is there anyway I can check for the location of this bulletin. I do have holes cut in the airbox and I don't need them telling me the code is because of that.
DTC P0171
Conditions for setting this fault:
1. The long term FT weighted average value is more than a calibrated value.
2. The above condition is present for more than 2 minutes.
Conditions for DTC/CEL reset (note MIL=CEL):
1. The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
2. A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.
3. A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
4. Clear the MIL and the DTC with a scan tool.
Notice the light should go off after 3 ignition cycles if the problem is fixed, the fault will come off the history after 40 ignition cycles.
Stuff you can check at home without a scan tool that could cause this condition:
1. Missing, loose, or leaking exhaust components
2. Vacuum leaks at the intake manifold, throttle body, and injector O-rings
3. The air induction system and air intake ducts for leaks
4. The crankcase ventilation system for leaks
5. The evaporative canister purge pipes for obstructions or plugging
Conditions for setting this fault:
1. The long term FT weighted average value is more than a calibrated value.
2. The above condition is present for more than 2 minutes.
Conditions for DTC/CEL reset (note MIL=CEL):
1. The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
2. A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.
3. A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
4. Clear the MIL and the DTC with a scan tool.
Notice the light should go off after 3 ignition cycles if the problem is fixed, the fault will come off the history after 40 ignition cycles.
Stuff you can check at home without a scan tool that could cause this condition:
1. Missing, loose, or leaking exhaust components
2. Vacuum leaks at the intake manifold, throttle body, and injector O-rings
3. The air induction system and air intake ducts for leaks
4. The crankcase ventilation system for leaks
5. The evaporative canister purge pipes for obstructions or plugging
Originally Posted by MarcS
Thanks for the info
, is there anyway I can check for the location of this bulletin. I do have holes cut in the airbox and I don't need them telling me the code is because of that.
, is there anyway I can check for the location of this bulletin. I do have holes cut in the airbox and I don't need them telling me the code is because of that.In GMs Service Information , Document ID #'s 1704292 and 1704374, both pertain to p0171.
I just purchased Auto Tap with the GM upgrade so hopefully when I get that I'll get a better idea of what's not working in my car.
Running lean in the winter is not so bad, but when spring comes around the extra heat created by the condition may be troublesome.
Running lean in the winter is not so bad, but when spring comes around the extra heat created by the condition may be troublesome.
So I'm not the only one having this problem with the k&N intake. It's not worth the hassel if you ask me. I've over oiled my k&n air filter on my ta and never had this problem. These new cars suck. Has anyone called K&N to see if they have a solution. I had my friend clear my code and it came back on today on the way home from work. I also took the hole thing out and double checked everything. I'm a litte pissed because in modern performance advertising it says no engine lights. I know they probley didn't get one but that was the reason I ordered one. I'm not blaming them but I'm just very disapointed.
Joe
Joe
I had that code too. I took to dealer and they replace the airfiler and no more codes. I think that it is do the turbulance. If you install K/N or install you original filter wrong it will cause the P0171 code. Try to take the air box out and install the filter into the air box. Then install air box with cover and filter already in it back into the car. Reset the code. Might try new filter also.
I hope it helps for you........
For K& N try rotating 90, or 180.
Also it helps to know under what conditions did the you get the code....Mine was showing up during hyway speeds at 65 MPH. This was also right after high boot. then hyway speed at 65. I would always through a code that way. Since i when back to original filter I have not see a code for 3000+ miles.
I hope it helps for you........
For K& N try rotating 90, or 180.
Also it helps to know under what conditions did the you get the code....Mine was showing up during hyway speeds at 65 MPH. This was also right after high boot. then hyway speed at 65. I would always through a code that way. Since i when back to original filter I have not see a code for 3000+ miles.
Originally Posted by cobalt$$
I am having the same problem. so what should we do? Can i still keep the K&N cai or will my car always through a cell?
I called K&N today and they said to disconnect your battery for one hour. I asked what that would do vs disconnecting it for ten or 20 min. He said that it would erase you computer without having any memory for the code. So I did it and drove home from work. So far so good but thats only 60 miles it always seems to come on about 2or3oo miles. So I will let you know if it comes back on. He seemed pretty confident that it would not come on. I hope his is right.
Joe
Joe
Also make sure everyone calls so that way they know there is a problem. Just keep calling them. I'm happy with the product as far as the power and fitment but I really can't deal with the engine light coming on all the time. If everyone calls then maybe they will fix the problem some how. Here is the # 1800-858-3333.
Joe
Joe
Originally Posted by JAESS
I called K&N today and they said to disconnect your battery for one hour. I asked what that would do vs disconnecting it for ten or 20 min. He said that it would erase you computer without having any memory for the code. So I did it and drove home from work. So far so good but thats only 60 miles it always seems to come on about 2or3oo miles. So I will let you know if it comes back on. He seemed pretty confident that it would not come on. I hope his is right.
Joe
Joe
No I didn't see it nessary. My light didn't come on until I reached about 300 miles. Plus I installed it in about 30 or 40 min. So I guess it wouldn't of mattered because the guy at K&N said it has to be for an hour. I will be driving the car again tomorrow so I will let you know. I hope they are right.
Joe
Joe
Well I just called K&N too, and the tech over the phone recommended that I disconnect the battery for 1 full hour. So I just went ahead and did that, even though I know I had it disconnected for atleast an hour when I was installing the thing.
The first customer service person I talked too said it could take around 300 miles for the car to relearn the fuel/air levels. argh who knows? We'll see.
The first customer service person I talked too said it could take around 300 miles for the car to relearn the fuel/air levels. argh who knows? We'll see.
I know it's a pain in the a$$!!! I really can't wait until someone starts tuning these car's. I don't want to mod this car like my ta but I do want the basic boltons without having codes set for each one. Good luck with your car mav. Keep us posted about your cel and I will do the same.
Joe
Joe


