2.4L LSJ ZZP Stroker talk
2.4L LSJ ZZP Stroker talk
ok. heres the deal. i'm looking at buying a 2.4L LSJ ZZP Stroker motor from the ZZP website. with an LSJ Long Block with valvespring swap which the website says also comes with
# JE forged pistons (except LNF, it comes with Wiseco)
# Chromoly rings
# ZZP 4340 stroker rods w/ARP 2000 bolts
# ZZP neutral balance shafts
# ATI balancer (overdrive or underdrive)
# Fidanza aluminum lightweight flywheel
# ARP flywheel bolts
# New clevite bearings
# Fully balanced rotating assembly
# Brad Penn break in oil
Timing chain, head gasket, ARP head studs, vac check, warp check, wash an thats all i think it comes with.
but back to my point.
if you have one hit up this thread. if not dont bother. i need to know what i'm capable of doing, your thoughts, how easy was the swap, how's it run/perform/and drive. also keep in mind i have the GM stage 2 pulley kit on my car which i will be transferring to the 2.4L ZZP stroker motor.
in other words, gimme a full run down of what you've got an how you like it. Thanks,
# JE forged pistons (except LNF, it comes with Wiseco)
# Chromoly rings
# ZZP 4340 stroker rods w/ARP 2000 bolts
# ZZP neutral balance shafts
# ATI balancer (overdrive or underdrive)
# Fidanza aluminum lightweight flywheel
# ARP flywheel bolts
# New clevite bearings
# Fully balanced rotating assembly
# Brad Penn break in oil
Timing chain, head gasket, ARP head studs, vac check, warp check, wash an thats all i think it comes with.
but back to my point.
if you have one hit up this thread. if not dont bother. i need to know what i'm capable of doing, your thoughts, how easy was the swap, how's it run/perform/and drive. also keep in mind i have the GM stage 2 pulley kit on my car which i will be transferring to the 2.4L ZZP stroker motor.
in other words, gimme a full run down of what you've got an how you like it. Thanks,
Stock s/c will the hinderance, if you're gonna drop the money on a motor you might as well get a tvs or turbo kit. If it's one or the other at the moment, then get the tvs or turbo first, then motor.
First off, don't make repeat threads of the same thing.
Secondly, use the search button.
Thirdly head over to the redlineforums and read there zzp 2.4 stroker thread.
Lastly but not least, I already told you there is only ONE member who has this and that is Tim who owns a redline and he loves it and put down amazing numbers with it, end of story.
You aren't going to find out much about this kit other then what zzp tells you as no one else has it. You are best off going over to the redlineforums and checking out there thread because there is A LOT more information on it over there.
Secondly, use the search button.
Thirdly head over to the redlineforums and read there zzp 2.4 stroker thread.
Lastly but not least, I already told you there is only ONE member who has this and that is Tim who owns a redline and he loves it and put down amazing numbers with it, end of story.
You aren't going to find out much about this kit other then what zzp tells you as no one else has it. You are best off going over to the redlineforums and checking out there thread because there is A LOT more information on it over there.
05slowline - I kind of disagree I think you should build it before adding power, people have blown there motors on tvs's and m62 setups. No reason not to build it first, but everyone has a different opinion and it's all good. A LOT OF PEOPLE if they had the choice to start over again, wouldn't waste there money on the m62 they would simply have built the zzp stroker kit. It really is a great setup and WELL worth the cash.
The only downfall in my opinion of what you are wanting is the ported head. You can get a better quality head for less money. If you are wanting to spend that kind of money on a head, get the one from m2race I believe it is which is a hell of a lot better.
Also the next thing you are going to have to dump money into is supporting modifications.
You will need a tune, you will need injectors, you will need a clutch/flywheel, you will need axles, you will need rotated tranny mounts to stop wheel hop and it wouldn't be a bad idea to lower the car with springs and lnf shocks/struts.
It's going to take a decent amount of money but it doesn't need to be done all at once. I would buy the motor, and then go from there personally. If and or when my motor goes, I will buy zzp's and build mine up on the side.
The only downfall in my opinion of what you are wanting is the ported head. You can get a better quality head for less money. If you are wanting to spend that kind of money on a head, get the one from m2race I believe it is which is a hell of a lot better.
Also the next thing you are going to have to dump money into is supporting modifications.
You will need a tune, you will need injectors, you will need a clutch/flywheel, you will need axles, you will need rotated tranny mounts to stop wheel hop and it wouldn't be a bad idea to lower the car with springs and lnf shocks/struts.
It's going to take a decent amount of money but it doesn't need to be done all at once. I would buy the motor, and then go from there personally. If and or when my motor goes, I will buy zzp's and build mine up on the side.
hey man. more threads. more notice.
an i have a few things in mind also that i would like to buy. not just the motor. i have the cash in hand. i'm just looking for my best option based on facts. i dont really wanna switch to a turbo set up because... everybody has one. everybodys worried about yeah my cars turbo'd. an to be quite honest with you my supercharged SS put alot of these turbo'd cars in my area to shame. boots is nothing if you've gotta wait to hit it. i like my boost whenever i please
an i have a few things in mind also that i would like to buy. not just the motor. i have the cash in hand. i'm just looking for my best option based on facts. i dont really wanna switch to a turbo set up because... everybody has one. everybodys worried about yeah my cars turbo'd. an to be quite honest with you my supercharged SS put alot of these turbo'd cars in my area to shame. boots is nothing if you've gotta wait to hit it. i like my boost whenever i please
More threads is not more notice, it's just the same thing repeated over and over by different people. That is why there is a search button to begin with. Go read the thread over on the redlineforums though as I stated, it has the most information and facts, pics etc.
Let me know what else you are thinking about buying as I have done all sorts of things with our cars. Also, there are PLENTY of turbo setups that do boost very quickly and very high for that matter. If you are wanting to stay supercharged though like I said in the other post you have two options really. The stock supercharger and the upgraded harrop tvs 1320 supercharger. The TVS obviously will allow you to make more power.
Let me know what else you are thinking about buying as I have done all sorts of things with our cars. Also, there are PLENTY of turbo setups that do boost very quickly and very high for that matter. If you are wanting to stay supercharged though like I said in the other post you have two options really. The stock supercharger and the upgraded harrop tvs 1320 supercharger. The TVS obviously will allow you to make more power.
and a turbo you don't have to wait much longer... I can go from 0 - 25 psi in less than a second at 4000, or 0 - 15 psi at 3000 rpm in less than a second, the only people that have massive amounts of turbo lag are people set up for high rpm applications, or they have the wrong setup.
and i've never seen a race happen below 3000 rpm, so anything under that is irrelevant.
no it didn't.
and a turbo you don't have to wait much longer... I can go from 0 - 25 psi in less than a second at 4000, or 0 - 15 psi at 3000 rpm in less than a second, the only people that have massive amounts of turbo lag are people set up for high rpm applications, or they have the wrong setup.
and i've never seen a race happen below 3000 rpm, so anything under that is irrelevant.
and a turbo you don't have to wait much longer... I can go from 0 - 25 psi in less than a second at 4000, or 0 - 15 psi at 3000 rpm in less than a second, the only people that have massive amounts of turbo lag are people set up for high rpm applications, or they have the wrong setup.
and i've never seen a race happen below 3000 rpm, so anything under that is irrelevant.
Since your goal is only 400 hp, I dont see why you wouldnt go with the LE5 bottom end, they hold 400 hp (well the 05-06's should) and its bored and stroked from the LSJ. You should be able to get one from a used engine dealer with a warranty for like $500 rather than the like over 3 grand for the zzp one.
Of course the zzp bottom end is good to 9500 rpm's where as the stock LE5 isnt recommended to be run much above 7000. and since HP = Torque * RPM/5252 you can gain a lot of power by spinning higher if you can keep your torque numbers up.
Of course the zzp bottom end is good to 9500 rpm's where as the stock LE5 isnt recommended to be run much above 7000. and since HP = Torque * RPM/5252 you can gain a lot of power by spinning higher if you can keep your torque numbers up.
hey man. more threads. more notice.
an i have a few things in mind also that i would like to buy. not just the motor. i have the cash in hand. i'm just looking for my best option based on facts. i dont really wanna switch to a turbo set up because... everybody has one. everybodys worried about yeah my cars turbo'd. an to be quite honest with you my supercharged SS put alot of these turbo'd cars in my area to shame. boots is nothing if you've gotta wait to hit it. i like my boost whenever i please
an i have a few things in mind also that i would like to buy. not just the motor. i have the cash in hand. i'm just looking for my best option based on facts. i dont really wanna switch to a turbo set up because... everybody has one. everybodys worried about yeah my cars turbo'd. an to be quite honest with you my supercharged SS put alot of these turbo'd cars in my area to shame. boots is nothing if you've gotta wait to hit it. i like my boost whenever i please
bottom line is. i wanna stay supercharged. i was checkin out that harrop tvs 1320 supercharger an it looks pretty nice. i could downgrade my expectations an cash flow. to get that an i few other things to get anywhere about 300
hey man. more threads. more notice.
an i have a few things in mind also that i would like to buy. not just the motor. i have the cash in hand. i'm just looking for my best option based on facts. i dont really wanna switch to a turbo set up because... everybody has one. everybodys worried about yeah my cars turbo'd. an to be quite honest with you my supercharged SS put alot of these turbo'd cars in my area to shame. boots is nothing if you've gotta wait to hit it. i like my boost whenever i please
an i have a few things in mind also that i would like to buy. not just the motor. i have the cash in hand. i'm just looking for my best option based on facts. i dont really wanna switch to a turbo set up because... everybody has one. everybodys worried about yeah my cars turbo'd. an to be quite honest with you my supercharged SS put alot of these turbo'd cars in my area to shame. boots is nothing if you've gotta wait to hit it. i like my boost whenever i please
thats all true. but bracket racing at the strip an red light green lights from a dig. plus i'm in love with the whine on the supercharger, i'm not to fond of the sneeze. and my first turbo'd car kinda led me away from turbo's. it was nice an fast an stuff. but ironically my built an murdered out srt4 blew up in.. 4 days.
Haha, as I said in the other post you will be very happy with the TVS as long as you fuel it properly. With the amount of cash you are looking to drop you can easily get 350whp and be VERY satisfied on that setup.
OP, if you want to stay supercharged, I would look into the tvs for sure. The stroker motor is pretty nice and can make tons of power with little boost, but its pretty expensive. Really depends on how far you want to take it.
Turbo lag all depends on the turbo. You run something small enough you wont have any lag, but not as high of hp. This can be shown with something like a gt2860rs, or a s20g, but the top power isn't nearly as high. The s20g has some good breathing room though on the hahn kit, I enjoyed my tuning time with those. But for a lsj I really recommend a gt3071r just like self has. Good spool time, plenty of power, and it's great on the street.
Not trying to get off topic, but does the TVS produce cooler IATs than the M62, assuming both are running the same pulley size? I was just sitting here trying to figure out if a cobalt running a TVS, E85, and supporting mods could pulley down enough to make 350whp without having to spray water or heatsoaking after a couple pulls.
OP, if you want to stay supercharged, I would look into the tvs for sure. The stroker motor is pretty nice and can make tons of power with little boost, but its pretty expensive. Really depends on how far you want to take it.
OP, if you want to stay supercharged, I would look into the tvs for sure. The stroker motor is pretty nice and can make tons of power with little boost, but its pretty expensive. Really depends on how far you want to take it.
The TVS DOES produce lower iat2's then the m62 as it is more efficient and has a bigger inlet. Yes you can make roughly 350whp on a tvs with e85 and not have crazy iat2's. Hell it can be done on a 2.9 pulley with the right setup =P. The biggest thing that I can't stress enough is having a PROPERLY tuned car and a PROPERLY ported head. These 2 things make a world of difference.
This summer if you would like I can do a direct comparison of iat2's from a 1st to 3rd gear pull, and back to back to back etc pulls. The m62 heats up a lot on the first pull and is dead by the 2nd and 3rd. The TVS will actually drop in iat2's the first time you mash the gas, by redline in 1st it starts to increase. By the end of 3rd she is still within range to not be pulling timing. The m62 will generally pull timing somewhere in 3rd depending on ambient temps and pulley ranges.
The great thing about the TVS though is that it doesn't heat soak nearly as much as the m62 due to it being more efficient and having a larger inlet. When you are on the throttle but not in boost, aka 0 vacuum you are pulling in a ton of air and it cools it down very quickly. So the TVS can do multiple runs without heating up as quickly as the m62 and it cools quicker then the m62.
But the stroker is only a $300 option...i mean if you want a built engine (and are not looking for some 500hp monster) this is the most logical route to go as far as cash goes.
The TVS DOES produce lower iat2's then the m62 as it is more efficient and has a bigger inlet. Yes you can make roughly 350whp on a tvs with e85 and not have crazy iat2's. Hell it can be done on a 2.9 pulley with the right setup =P. The biggest thing that I can't stress enough is having a PROPERLY tuned car and a PROPERLY ported head. These 2 things make a world of difference.
This summer if you would like I can do a direct comparison of iat2's from a 1st to 3rd gear pull, and back to back to back etc pulls. The m62 heats up a lot on the first pull and is dead by the 2nd and 3rd. The TVS will actually drop in iat2's the first time you mash the gas, by redline in 1st it starts to increase. By the end of 3rd she is still within range to not be pulling timing. The m62 will generally pull timing somewhere in 3rd depending on ambient temps and pulley ranges.
The great thing about the TVS though is that it doesn't heat soak nearly as much as the m62 due to it being more efficient and having a larger inlet. When you are on the throttle but not in boost, aka 0 vacuum you are pulling in a ton of air and it cools it down very quickly. So the TVS can do multiple runs without heating up as quickly as the m62 and it cools quicker then the m62.
This summer if you would like I can do a direct comparison of iat2's from a 1st to 3rd gear pull, and back to back to back etc pulls. The m62 heats up a lot on the first pull and is dead by the 2nd and 3rd. The TVS will actually drop in iat2's the first time you mash the gas, by redline in 1st it starts to increase. By the end of 3rd she is still within range to not be pulling timing. The m62 will generally pull timing somewhere in 3rd depending on ambient temps and pulley ranges.
The great thing about the TVS though is that it doesn't heat soak nearly as much as the m62 due to it being more efficient and having a larger inlet. When you are on the throttle but not in boost, aka 0 vacuum you are pulling in a ton of air and it cools it down very quickly. So the TVS can do multiple runs without heating up as quickly as the m62 and it cools quicker then the m62.
Stone629 - What you need to do is on the way back around is cool off the m62. Best way to do this is to put it in a higher gear, say 3rd or so going 20mph, and have it at 0vac. This will get a lot of air into the supercharger to cool it off while still driving slow enough that officials wont get pissed at you. Another thing you can do depending on how big your track is, is just drive around. The more you drive aka the more air you get through the supercharger out of boost, the cooler it will be. Also make sure your intercooler pump is working. The best thing I can recommend to you being on the m62 is methanol / water injection. This will help lower iat2s while at the same time being able to increase timing.
Phatnackyss - If you run e85 with the stroker and a tvs you could potentially see very high hp numbers while still maintaining daily driving abilities.
Phatnackyss - If you run e85 with the stroker and a tvs you could potentially see very high hp numbers while still maintaining daily driving abilities.
To the people arguing TVS on stock motor vs M62 on stroker.
Yes TVS on stock is cheaper for the same power level ....unless you blow your engine.I know people have made a ton of power on the stock motor but just as many have blown engines making less.
Pace of mind means a lot to some people. If you are going for 300+ on a daily driver i would build the engine anyway so why not spend the extra 300 and save 2000k and make the same power.
a little over 5k for a built engine doesn't sound to bad to me when you think of all the labor involved. I mean a new crate engine is about 3k alone so that's around 2k for all the parts labor.
This sounds like a good option for someone that's looking for a reliable 300+hp daily...maybe even throw a small shot of nitrous on it for safe measure...or a big one since it sounds like a pretty stout engine.
For turbo or tvs i would skip the stoker option,and stick with stranded compression.
Yes TVS on stock is cheaper for the same power level ....unless you blow your engine.I know people have made a ton of power on the stock motor but just as many have blown engines making less.
Pace of mind means a lot to some people. If you are going for 300+ on a daily driver i would build the engine anyway so why not spend the extra 300 and save 2000k and make the same power.
a little over 5k for a built engine doesn't sound to bad to me when you think of all the labor involved. I mean a new crate engine is about 3k alone so that's around 2k for all the parts labor.
This sounds like a good option for someone that's looking for a reliable 300+hp daily...maybe even throw a small shot of nitrous on it for safe measure...or a big one since it sounds like a pretty stout engine.
For turbo or tvs i would skip the stoker option,and stick with stranded compression.
2.4 stroker turbo
hey guys ive been doin some research but im not quite sure what direction to head in? i want to build a 2.4 stroker turbo motor but as a vw junky this cobalt scene is new to me . so what is the best way to do this ?
‪Cobalt SS vs Turbo S2000‬‏ - YouTube
why i love my supercharged cobalt. no affence to the turbo guys.
why i love my supercharged cobalt. no affence to the turbo guys.
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