alright within the next year or even the next couple months if i take out a loan i WILL have in between 400-450 horses

i need to know all the supporting mods i need besides new axles and clutch/flywheel

please list what i need... brand... and price

 

turbo swap. new pistons. turbo back exhaust. 60LB injectors. hp tuners.

 

no i already know im going to get there... performance wise..... i can actually get there with the supercharger lol

i need to know the supporting mods though

 

dude, ure gonna have to do extensive work to the head, valve train, shift at 8k rpm etc. its cheaper with a turbo or larger SC. period. but, its ure car, ure money.

 

i already have a way that i can do it.... im working with jbody performance right now and yea it takes money but its going to be the only way a engine wont blow up at that much hp

its not as easy as throwing a turbo on there and getting 400 hp

 

good luck with the project

 

LSD? if you dont have it you can buy a transmission for $2000 and swap it. The LSD itself is $1500 from Quaife USA (that is the stock LSD in our cars). you never know an extra transmission may not be a bad thing to have for parts (I hope not and do have confidence in this tranny).

motorwise? Pistons are in order. what type though. victory_red_SS says his car is built for twin charged and he is running 10:1. we can go as high as 10.5 to one. Likely 400HP can be done with supercharger only (according to GMperformance). have to do somemore research here. JBP maybe a good place to start.

I recently heard of a setup where with forged pistons and stock supercharger (modded of course) was able to produce 24lbs boost. I was like "noway" as I have read S/C is in efficient to produce boost past 18lbs. maybe this is not so, or maybe it can do it just not as efficient as turbo. Hey, as long as it gets there... what is the problem with that.
more research needed here.... I would like to find someone running this setup.

OK more to the list -
- adjustable cam sprockets
- cams - custom ground or just get GMPP cams?
- valve springs - careful attention here as the right springs are needed to raise RPM to 7500 or 8000, due the increased lift from the cams.
- smaller pulley? well thats easy - just go smaller after all other work is done to get HP you want.
- custom madrel bent exhaust, do the environment a favour if this is a daily driver - keep a catilytic on the car. go as big as you can to prevent flow problems.
- Intake if you dont have one. XTC is my choice casue it uses parts of factory in take accept the tubing
- intake spacer plate to - run nitrous if you want later, water/meth (snow performance - it works), helps with belt tension and smaller pulley too.

now machining
head - two ways to go - get your head ported and polished or by GMPP head
Blower - Port and polish and snout machining to run the little 2.5" pulley.

suspension? yeah those contols arms are going to feel they are getting ripped off.
Control bushings on the front of the car. there are four. two front bushings and two rear bushings (rear bushings are on the front control arm for those who are new to this)
#1 - go with JPB control arm front bushings.
#2 - the rear bushing is weak - GMP racing uses a solid steel bushing! I have yet to find a supplier for the rear bushing. Help! mine are cracking at 15000 miles and the steering wheel shakes at high speed and moderate braking with now pedal pulsation. When the arms move like this is is called deflection. Band aid fix is to use BWoody traction bars. these work but it is not my preffered choice. I sold them recently for need of cash, but they do work very well. might be great for just track days only.
#3 - POLY bushing for all engine mounts.

TIRES - big improvement. this should be everyones first mod!
ok - traction is a issue for all - the best 60ft I have seen is 2.14. I have a 2.18. I think all can agree that we launch light and generally see 2.2 and 2.3 on average as a pretty good time stock. if we could launch harder we would go faster. what to do?

17"'s. Well some people will say go with 16" and DR's. that is fine but I want to drive there and go. so this is my solution which I have to say it is not better than 255/50r16 but it will be close.
- 17x8 wheels - there out there
- NITTO 245/45r17 NT555R's which are drag radials. DONT CONFUSE THIS WITH JUST NT555. THE R makes a BIG difference as it is a different compound.

that is it you should have a good base for the front suspension and no wheel hop through the upgraded bushings and tires.

I am open to constructive criticism on these plans as I am still working through it. please add known research and be prepared to provide a source for your data to support it as you maybe asked. in short - cut the BS'ing. we dont have time for that.

thanks.

 

He is right. it is not just about boost. or turbo. SC is fine. GMperformance knows it and so does JBP.

 

wow this dude knows his ****

well im getting the engine able to handle the 400 horse by JBP they are doing my pistons, cams, head, and all the other engine work to have a safe and reliable but fast ride...

im guessing just by the work they do i can add atleast 75-100 horsepower yea it might charge me a pretty penney and take a month or two but in the long run its all worth it...

i think too many people are trying to go the easy route by putting a turbo on it... yea it adds more power but our car isnt setup for that so u need the preventative stuff also

and with the NITTO 245/45r17 NT555R's will they fit under the car good.... especially since im planning on gettting lowering springs???

and y a cat for daily driver???? what about every other day... or 3 days a week driver?? lol

 

agreed. yeah if you dont do it now it may be more expensive later. there is no doubt the pistons will break eventually from the torture. no one is saying it will happen in one run. when talking about reliability we really talking about the car reaching 100,000 miles. you may go 200 miles or 10000 miles before the motor blows up under just a turbo mod. It can be done with stock super charger so why not rather putting 3000 to a turbo kit and put it into the motor plus a little more. makes far more sense.

255/50r16's fit. 245/45r17 should fit as the dimension are smaller. I have Eibach sportlines but I am not worried as the bump stops are the same as factory so the travel of the supension under compression will not be more in the front. I didnt cut the back bump stop but you could and likely have now problem. overall diameter is the same as stock. just wider. width is a little more than 1/4" on either side. 215-235= 20MM .... 20mm /2 = 1cm... that is not more than 1/2" for sure.



LOL well it is not a track car. seriously consider it with JBP, they will know best. Let me know how it works out and details. if I find more I will PM you too.

 

PS - this is a planned build for 450HP. if you want more for the track day you can get 525 with N2O. Water/meth is a good cheap way to get 25 to 40HP too. It is cheap cause well water vs N20 refill...well I dont have to do the math for you.

 

lmao! I know one guy who swapped in a bigger SC, and another that swapped in a turbo. 12LB of boost from a t3 will give u better numbers than 12LB from the stock m62. Why are people so against taking it off?

 

not against it... i just like the fact that i can get that much horse out of it without putting a turbo on

im one of those people who likes to be unique... so yea maybe you can get the same horse with a turbo but im saving 3 grand and some extra modding by keeping it this way.. and besides im trying to look as stock as possible....

because most people think like you... superchargers are weak.... well i like my supercharged sleeper setup

 

well, i gotta respect u wanting to be unique. good luck bro! FYI the gm one has to get machined, go with the other one, the cosmetic or what ever the hell its called.

 

You need an engine dampner, this will help reduce wheel hop and your tire spinning problem in 1st gear man.


Seriously

 

do you know what your talking about?

you talked about 12lbs boost from our stock S/C. did you even know that with a simple pulley the boost is at 15lbs, did you know people are able to get 18lbs, did you know it is not all about boost. It does not seem like it.

DID YOU KNOW THAT GM SAYS YOU CAN GET 400++Hp with the stock S/C? I think you missed that as it was in my earlier posts. did you know that JBP recommends that as well.

Now I ask you why would you spend money on a turbo system and build strength in your motor when all you need is to build up your motor to handle the power. to machine the the snout and port the blower is only approx $200 or $300. A turbo kit is going to run $3000. If your target HP is greater than 500HP then yeah go turbo no guestion.

Everyone goes with curing the symptom but never the problem. the cause of wheel hop is control arm deflection as proven with BWoody Traction Bars. I ran them and they work 100%. also people have ran P235/40r18 (not recommended on anything but 18x8 rims) and have success in removing wheel hop. the problem is that with a engine dampener you only take all that force and put it on to two bolts. at least double dampen it with two of these things (kits are available) but again it is a bandaid solution. motor mounts would be a better one. ultimate would be control arm bushings.

Tire spinning lol that wont help with tire spin! its the same tire. you need bigger meats. I get my best launch without tire spin or wheel hop. I did 2.18 without traction aid. if you do get wheel hop that is because your breaking traction and going too hard. back off a little and your 60's will come down.

but you dont believe it and that is ok. I will do it my way. Oh but the way. you will be replacing those flimsy bushings any way so why not do it now and save your money from buying an engine dampener...... seriously.

edit - sheeps follow, shepards lead the way...... are you a sheep or a shepard?

 

Ive seen LSJ's pump 22 LB of boost here in miami, ive seen em with custom direct port 100hp nitrous. I dont know if i know more than u, or if i do know more than u. but the LSJ can take boost no prob. Cuz ive seen it myself, have u?????

 

It can take boost no problem, but you wont get 400HP and it wont last 100000miles. It can go today, tomorrow, next week, in a month, in a year. the deciding factor? your pistons. either they are really good cast or if you have one shitty cast then boom. how soon? that depends on alot factors but I know it could be today, tomorrow, next week, in a month, or in a year.

you have seen them running with 22lbs boost but have you seen them running 22lbs boost and creating more than 400HP? I have not.

again it is not all about boost. flow is required to produce HP as well. that is why you need cams, timing, head work, more compression for low boost apps.

We shall see what victory_red_SS comes up with but I can tell you he will have more than 600HP. I am not at liberty to say what JBP says it will do. It is a wait and see thing. but he is doing way more than throwing a turbo on.

go ahead and throw a turbo on. we both spend similar money but a built motor will outlast and have more HP than a stock motor with a turbo. If you manage to get the same HP you will blow up some day. This is according to GMP, GAIL BANKS, and JBP. I will call HAHN if you like who is developing the turbo kit now. I am sure they will recommend the piston change at a minimum. but do what you want. just trying to save you money in the long run.

edit - oh and trust me I am hope I am wrong cause I would just do head work cams and super charger and call it a day. One fast car for little money then.

 

flow is required, i totally agree with you on that one. When i said 22 LB of boost i was refering to my buddy who already did the turbo swap. Will the built motor last? Yep, itll last longer. At any rate, a 400whp turbo LSJ will need lower compression pistons and a gasket at the very least. Why all the headwork etc? Thats over kill, atleast for a turbo swap. Srt4's can get 450 ish with a turbo swap, engine management, fuel, and some bolt ons. And they run reliable too. Not sure if you ever heard of Lujan Motorsports, but I just spoke to pablo now. He assures me that the stock internals can more than take a 350whp beating. Swapping the pistons will be a must, lower compression will be needed to safely run on 93 octane. I dont care what you do for a living, but CByellowSS is going one way, your going another, and im trying to shift at 8krpm on a turbo LSJ <ljavy17's car>.

what will he run hmmm lets see.
Precision turbo, custom exhaust manifold, piping <max welds, t clamps, with couplers>, intercooler, hp tuners, 60lb injectors, intercooler, intake manifold <top secret>, valve springs, retainers, neutral balance shaft, clutch <still undetermided which brand and stage>, shorter belt, custom cai, turbo back exhaust, adjustable wastegate, BOV, fresh seals and gaskets, spark plugs, head studs, annnnnnnd....... im forgetting something i think.

 

lmao! catchcan and oil lines

 

im very interested in knowing how you can possibly think a roots style blower running 400 horses is going to be safer on the engine than a turbo... maybe cheaper because you already have the blower setup, but a turbo is far more efficient and safe.

 

CbYellowSS is talking about building his engine first and preparing for much more hp, as apposed to just doing a turbo swap.

 

ahhh i see. thank you. sorry if my first comment came off as sarcastic i actually meant to show interest more than disebeleif, i just read it again and it doesnt really express what i wanted very well. Have you thought about the temps you will be putting out with all the cfm you will need to make 450 hp? It isn't even possible to go front mount on the ss is it? what are you going to do about traction...450hp on a fwd platform isn't going to be very friendly to daily driving especially with the instant response of a roots blower.

 

just when you think someone is talking about running stock internals he switches his tune. LOL .... so you agree pistons need to be changed. about ******* time you see the light. but with that setup if you can only hit 400HP .... god help you. You should easily go higher. infact if you did the head work with cams you would be able to go beyond 750HP and safely.


Its no secret that others are running 10:1 pistons, twin charged and they will go beyond 600HP. and not just by a little. the will go beyond way beyond. Our build is now cheaper and will meet your 400HP or exceed.
Oh by the way this is not an SRT-4, its a ECOTEC. you cant compare them at all or the way to get power out of them. there is more than one way make power. The SRT-4 is what the Cobalt should be if GM was smart. they would build it with forged pistons.

You were pumped about Turbo on stock internals to 450HP. now your telling me you need to change pistons. Well you could do that but if your already there you may as well do the head. its out. it would respond to the turbo so much better and with less boost. but your right you could do all that spend more. so why do all the head work? keeping the stock S/C is cheaper compared to turbo.

A hell do what I said before go buy your turbo. but now you are replacing the pistons too the motor will last as long. your still spending more. good luck

 

That is a very good question. one that I cannot answer yet other than you dont want to do this on stock tires ....LOL that is why I suggested the suspension upgrades and what tires I would run (which is a personal preference). I would hope you can tune the power with HP tuners to have a smooth power roll on from low rpm on up. but I can admit I am guessing. that is not a stage that I at yet other than get good with the accelerator. even right now with GMS2 you can spin the tires through first and part of 2nd, but that is not fast. got to roll into it. A friend of mine has a large turbo on a SRT-4. He leaves the line like a granny then hammers it. he is still tuning this thing and his very first run he did 13.2 at the end of the day he increased his boost and was doing 12's. hes on Falken street tires to boot. no drag radials. I have seen a older dodge charger with a 2.4L (yeah they made them) and they ran 11's on drag radials. It shocks the hell out alot of V-8's.

anyway that is all about testing and tuning. I have no problem in saying "give me the HP and I will try to get it to the ground some way" "do you have any ideas?"