well dyno didnt go so well, i showed up today around 9am...jumped on the dyno, spent a whle getting ready, than started datalogging, than started the dyno, after the first pull was done, the guy said the car did not want to accelarate after 5k-ish...he tried for a bit, but gave up, we looked at the graph and it showed problems, so we next did a 3rd gear pull...still the same thing...coudlnt figure it out...i started running out of time so i ended up having to leave the shop and come to work ******* wish we could find out the problem, hopefully vince gets back to me soon after looking at the logs i sent him and the dyno sheet....



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the trq looks good, but after 5k everything takes a **** and goes no where.... anyone have any ideas, vince says IDC are 86% max and the pulse width looks good...he sent me a updated tune which i havent uploaded yet, it leans out a bit in the high end, so he may have added mroe fuel, running as much timing as we can at the momment, were could those other 70hp be at? could a clogged fuel filter be reponsible? thats one of the things he asked me to check...i knwo the fuel pump can handle a lot more than what im pushing my car too...this does explain why my car sucks on highways runs....bc it takes the **** after 5k

mods:

-3.00" pulley (13psi)
-KnN intake
-LSJ throttle body
-pacesetter header(1.75" primaries)
-catless DP
-megan racing caback
-all solid mounts
-GM stgII injectors
-autometer digital gauge(so i know im getting 13psi exactly, not a guess from a needle)

 

change the fuel pump.

 

really think its the fule pump? ill pick one up from ebay and swap them out if thats the case...but couldnt u tell from a datalog if the fuel pump was bad? or could it be a clogged filter doing it too...i have 54k on my car at the momment, when should it be changed? last time i changed it was at 23k

 

Any possibility of a blown motor? Have you done a compression test?

 

last i knew of. the 2.2 and 2.0 have different fuel pumps

 

*Smacks forehead on laptop*

I didn't even know he was a 2.2

 

yeah but other 2.2's have boosted higher than this fine, hell mkurley took his 2.2 to 252whp, and xcobalt05x has his at 256whp

there is no knocking, no pinging, nothing i can hear externally, and vince doesnt see any KR...

 

None of that means that something didn't happen previously. Do a compression test just to be sure!

 

torque management on or off? if on...turn it off. Kinda like the same thing that happend to mine....went up and then at 5000rpm it nose dived

 

Check your bypass valve and acuator.

 

i dont have trq managment on my 2.2...i dont have traction control, no boost control, nothing like that....hell im MAF Tuned...

k ill check it out...i dont think it has changed, but ill check it out for sure...maybe its staying a bit open? but im still boosting 13psi, wouldnt i be less if the bypass was open?

 

Yes you would see less just cover your bases though to be sure.

 

speakin of which.

call me pookie

 

k ill check it, i mean could the dyno be calibrated wrong,i know the a/f is accurate, but that HP i slow, i mean i raced a bone stock ss/tc and we were even up until the 100+mph range, even from a dig we were even for a long time, i dont think a 156whp car would do that...but def going to work on the tune to fix the lean spikes, and i guess dyno #'s wont be what i talk about :p may just have to go off my ET and trap speed

should i just remove the blower and make sure the bypass is fully closed? this is how my hoses are set up



the bottom nipple on the bypass is left VTA

 

Everyone is saying fuel, throw a gauge on it. But replacing the in tank with a Walbro would be nice too

NM , your bottom nipple is the vacuum source that controls the solinoid to vent the boost

you have no bypass at all

 

Yeah I don't have a bypass solnoud, just a bypass valve...I'll post a update after the new tune is uploaded.

 

run a compression test. I got an idea of what it might be. but I don't want to jinx ya.

 

in for the solution.

 

shoot me a PM of what u think...im uploading my new tune in a bit, than doing some log, going to get a mechanical pressure gauge and connect it to the shreader(SP) valve...anyone know what the psi should be able? i was told 30psi...and it should stay 30psi....

 

Good luck to you. I'd like to know what happens.

 

Going to connect a mechanical fuel pressure gauge and tape it to my winshield to make sure I'm getting pressure in the high end. According to my repair book. Should always be 50-60psi . If there is any less than I need a new fuel pump. Which I may warranty out I still have a open ticket for air bags, wheel bearing, so hopefully they can drop a new fuel pump too so I only pay the deductable once

Also going to put a stock blower on to see how it goes.

 

uploaded a new tune from vince which should of richened up the high end, took it for a drive, still hesitate badly, meaning its not a issue with the tune, im leaning out for other reasons, i do hit 14psi max right before i shift, but i doubt that would cause my af to go from 11.5 to 13...so i went back to my previous tune, went for a drive, didnt do it anymore....i had 3 tunes yesterdays

tune01: been running it for months, same one i used on the dyno
tune02: recieved after vince looked over my datalog from dyno(and to fix my AC issue)
tune03: was suppose to be richened up in the high end

well at first all tunes did it, than when i went from tune03 to tune02, tune02 didnt do it last night, did 3 pulls from 0-130 and none of them hesitated...so i doubt the problem coudl of been fixing by going to a diffrent tune, bc this tune did it to earlier in the day....

 

So where are you at now with it?

 

Get that **** tuned by someone on a DYNO.