I am installing my AEM UEGO wideband and was just wondering where everyone ran their power wire. Did you have to extend it to make it reach the gauge in the A pillar. Also where did you put your wiring for the sensor to get to the outside of the car.

 

There should be enough of the power wire included with the AEM UEGO to extend down the A pillar to under the dash. Then you will need to attach some additional wire from this by soldering, to run to the fuse box on the passenger side footwell. I recommend using a add a fuse to tap the power sunroof fuse so that the guage only comes on with the ignition source. There is a gromet above the clutch on the inside of the car in the footwell of the drivers side that you need to remove to run the wire from the sensor through to the engine compartment thwn connect it to the O2 sensor portion where the two clip togather.

Pm me if you have any additional questions good lucj with the install

 

Ok so I got this all installed now. The A/F bounces around a lot when I am ideling. Also when I downshift the gauge goes all the way to the right and dashed lines show up on the gauge is this normal.

 

how much does it bounce around??

 

between like 13-15 or so

 

yep its normal mine is the same, when decelerating and off the gas it will peg the gauage all the way to the right so it only shows a line like its off the gauge lean....under normal driving (not under boost) the gauage will fluctuate from 13-16 a/f.

Its when you are wot that you need to watch the guage...I am quessing that with the stage 2 tune you are mid 11's in the mid range at WOT and then going into the mid 10's the closer you get to redline?

With the meth injection on the stage 2 tune I was off the scale rich..it just showed a 10 becuase it wouldnt read richer! Now that i am tuned I am 11.8 a/f @ WOT in the midrange and 11.4-5 in the higher rpms..man what a difference in performance just by leaning it out!

 

awesome just making sure it was normal. I just installed it so I am not quite sure what it hits at redline but I am going to keep a look out for that. So it should be in the 10's when I am at redline with the stage 2 tune?

 

Well evry car is different, I am just going off what mine was, would initally be in the 11's on the guage then would go into the 10's a/f wise, from my understanding all gm stage 2 tunes are basically the same...dont be shocked if you are in the 10's.......its safe just not optimal for making max hp. The optimal a/f is mid 11's for this car...more power can be had by running closer to a 12 or greater (i.e 12.0-12.5) but with the returnless fuel system in the car, it wouldnt be recommended to tune it that way, a bit lean and cylinder # 4 is the furthest away from the fuel source so it tends to run leaner than the other cylinders hense why it usually is the one to break when these motrs fail.


If you ever come down to Saint John, I can fix your tune up with HP Tuners so you run a safe a/f in the low 11's and will get the timing issue fixed for you!....just by leaning the stage 2 tune out a bit and fixing the timing so you dont get any knock on the 91 Octane fuel should net you an easy 10whp