Which header/dp is the best bang for the buck?

1. Price
2. Gains
3. Fitment
4. Sound

 

i've heard good things about the pacesetter, but i'm not a fan of the company.

also, looking at it, the CA one looks to have some potential... but i'd think that i'd get it coated.

 

Thanks man, I am giving my car one last chance.

 

I'm with Joe. I chose the CA and XTC b-pipe for my 2.4 and love it. For a bolt on, it's the best for $/hp gain.

The pacesetter should perform better in theory, but it's a cut n' weld to install. The price is right too. But... if you don't like it after cutting and welding your downpipe, you're stuck.

 

i like the hahn set up

 

I like the GM Manifold, = best bang for buck if you end up having problems because GM will pay for it not you.

 

i also have a 2.4 and am looking at the same combo... how did the install go? was it worth it coin?

for background, i'm not a guy for wasting cash, i just want to make good solid mods that will last the life of the car.

 

I think I will spend the extra 20 bucks and get a bolt-on header/dp combo.

How much that run ya?

 

I have the Pacesetter ArmorCoated header and I love it. IMO it is one of the best headers out right now. Great quality, performance gains, and price. I also have the XTC DP which is also great.

 

The install went easily. The hardest thing was getting the old manifold off as 2 of the 3 b-pipe/manifold bolts broke off due to some super threadlock that GM uses. Other than that, It's a piece of cake. The CA parts have a lifetime warranty and the quality seems to me like you won't need to use it.

What were the results? Look at my sig. I'm within .02 of being the quickest 2.4auto on the board. This was with zero traction by the way, as it was raining at the time. I went up in smoke when my 2.4 auto hit second gear. Look how low my trap speed was compared to my ET. It should have been over 90, but was only 87 due to wheel spin. I'm 100% sure that on a dry track I'll approach 15 flat.

 

how long did it take you?

and can you feel it with the good old "Ass dyno?"

 

I suppose a couple hours with jackstands and a little elbow grease. I got power tools and a lift. Hahah *******.

 

cobalt addiction or zzp seems the best combos out there

 

It'll take you an hour and a half if your old manifold refuses to budge like mine did.

The engine runs much smoother with the equal length header installed. If it didn't net any hp gains, it would have been worth it to me for this feature alone. The smoother running engine feels more refined - almost (God forgive me.) Hondaish. (shudder)

I had my car tuned for this set-up my Westers, so the butt dyno really went off the charts for simple boltons. The header and b-pipe delivers smooth, even power delivery - with much higher rpm potential. It winds quickly to 7k (my shift point) making good power all the way. It doesn't take all day to get there like it did before. In fact, it makes me think that if my valvetrain could take it, I could push my shift point even further without much power loss.

I'm a happy camper.

 

have you had any issues with it not being coated and cooking the underhood?

 

No. The paint cooks off the headers right away as everyone else reports, but the under hood area doesn't get hot as there's lots of clearance for airflow. The stainless looks nice and hasn't rusted or corroded yet, and I don't think it will. There is no more heat coming off of it than the stock manifold - probably less, cause there's less surface area for it to radiate from, and the gasses exit quicker so they heat it up less. Plus, anything even remotely close has the factory thermal shield, including the firewall. You won't have any heat worries with this header.

 

1420 header downpipe and exhaust

 

Are the ZZP parts 304 or 409 stainless steel?

 

so, the factory heat shield stays in place? that's a good thing.

 

You could rig up some clamps or brackets and attach the factory heat shield if you wanted to, but that's not my point. Everything from the firewall to nearby cables and hoses has an insulating/IR reflecting pad or is wrapped in an insulating/IR reflecting covering. After seeing all this insulating shielding provided by GM and seeing how much extra heat the header generates, I didn't feel there was any need for retention of the stock heat shield. If you really wanted to reduce under hood temps, an air extracting hood might be a good addition.

I live in Louisiana where summer temps really soar - so much so that I insulated my Injen CAI to reduce IATs. However the airflow under the hood is designed to exit at the rear of the engine bay under the vehicle, taking most of the heat with it. I really don't think there is anything to worry about as far as additional heat is concerned. Now if the header bolted to the front of the engine, like most 4 cyls, it would be a different matter.

 

ZZP header and downpipe combo great fitment , good top end 3 inch collector and its 450 without a cat