I posted something kinda like this awhile back, but now I've decieded not to go with the GMPP Dual Pass. Alot of money.. I need something a bit cheaper..

I want to put on a stage 3 pulley, on my stage 2, and even tho ive been told its safe, i want one to be safer anyway.


So let me know whats good and whats not.

Thanks!

 

Modified stock endplate is cheaper than the GM one.

http://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt_...=855&catid=178

http://www.ottperformance.com/Cobalt...duct_info.html

 

On the OTT one. I dont need anything else? Just that, and I can install it as soon as I get it?

All ther sites I see on cooling mods like this confuse me.

 

You will need some 3/4" heater hose also and a Y (or T) fitting, and I also recommend the opt. B setup if modifying the cooling system. Makes it 100x easier to bleed air out. Its not a 5 min job to swap the endplate, you have to pull the entire manifold and turn around 2 of the laminova cores. Its a decent sized job.

There is a How-To somewhere I believe...

 

yeah just get a front mount H/E cheap easy and only takes a little bit... definatly not like a dual pass...

 

get a front h.e i love my ottp one and a dual pass not too hard shoot if i was able to do it u can too. that it will be a good start. then get meth and second tank like opt b or the flow thru thank that vulcan made its like the stu mod

 

your safe to run that pulley no cooling IMO. The best cooling mods are meth injection, killer chiller, and single pass.

 

but for the price... best mod for cooling i would say is h/e front mount... and its easy also.

 

best cooling mod for sure is an air to air setup
next would be meth

 

i'm running a dual pass endplate, option b system, and a large front mount heat exchanger, all on the factory pulley... You can never have enough cooling mods.

that's misleading, air to water has a much higher capacity for efficiency when done correctly.

But i agree that methanol does help as well.

 

^^^Awsome^^^^

 

what are you referring to? haha

 

prob u having all those coolin mods on a stock pully.. but i agree never enough cooling mods.. but read his thing lol he wants bang for the buck in lowering iat's... once again ide say frontmount h/e with a stu mod( stu is cheap and cant hurt)

 

Both you and freakta, I talk about the stock pulley being way to much heat for the luminovas to handle thats why freakta switched to a air-air setup and guess what AIT1 to 2 diffrence with back to back pulls was only 13 degrees!! This is with a small intercooler and a desk fan blowing on the front mount. So yah you can never have enough cooling!!!

 

ive heard alot of good things abou the air to air and ive been reading the thread... very interesting.( i was always tought the compleat opossit that an air to air is not as efficiant but cheaper... and water to air is more expesive and at the same time more efficiant... i guess there proving that rong lol.

 

True the air to air setup is usually not as efficent as L/A however the luminova design is the least efficent way to L/A cool the most efficent wat to cool with L/A is a bar/fin core and hella thick I get custom cores made at bellintercoolers, but you need to buy a real strong pump to pump the coolant through the core like the new miezer pump and a high flow bar/fin radiator for the radiator and you can never go below 3/4 inch or you'll severly degradate the performance. There is alot of tricks it's hard to explain but the air/air setup worked way better then planned it was like a dream come true for me freaketa and Fred the tunner!

 

I'm currently on the stock cooling system and GM S3 pulley.

Immediately after 3 pulls on the dyno in 97F weather, I was at 180F IAT2. (207F ECT, 104F IAT). Definitely on the high side.
Can't wait to install my dual-pass, opt b, and ottp h/e

On the street I rarely see anything above 140F IAT2, so as long as you're not going *****-out all of the time, you'll be fine on the stock setup.

 

Freakta's AIT1 was 96 and his AIT2 was 109 this was back to back dyno pulls, very hot!

The dual pass junk is garbage get a real upgraded cooling system then it'll never be an issue again!

 

It worries me that their is even a chance of overheating.

Thats why I wanna go ahead and get some kinda cooling mod, looking at the h/e front.

 

That's just it, there is no real solution for this horrible stock intake manifold. You can dual pass it all day and stick the biggest front mount radiator thing on it all you want! It's the shity design! Get a real manifold once and never worrie again.

 

Anyone have a link to the h/e?

 

I'm telling you, you should talk to freakta or somebody and ask them your wastiing your money get a real manifold with either Liquid or air to air instead of just a radiator for your shity stock luminova setup....


http://www.ottperformance.com/Cobalt...duct_info.html

 

dual pass is a solid design, so is the laminova system. thats not really the problem with our cooling. it's the poor placement of the stock heat exchanger, and the relatively small fluid capacity, move the heat exchanger to a spot where it receives adequate airflow, and increase fluid capacity, and you are quite set. Keep an eye on the intercooler pump, and you're golden.

 

I have the dule endplate, with OverTheTopPerformance 2nd gen heat exchanger, with a few feet extra line than usual for lil more coolant, with all areoquip fittings, with the merzieres wp136s after cooler pump, also with methanol injection, i plan to add vulcan turbos aluminum option b take, for it designed to be able to put ice in it with no issues, this is best setup that i have ran with my car so far. i dont know if you can get much better. but i know you said you want to do something but not to expensive.....your options on that are slim to know the cheapest upgrade would be the option B kit, its 109 at www.crateenginedepot.com other wise everything else is in the 200+ each range

 

I need to know the diff between AIT1/2 please if you remmember? please give me back to back pull temps!!! thanks.