Best upgrades to do first?
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Joined: 01-07-12
Posts: 72
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From: Elizabethtown, Kentucky
ive got gms2 injectors for sale and the pulley and bolts. all youd need is a hub and somebody to tune it.
hell, id even send the 2007 stage 2 file to the tuner to start out with.
and there is really little difference between the zzp stage 2 and gms2. the gms2 tune file blows, so get a tuner to tune it. zzps canned tune wouldnt be much different
edit: and the s2 belt would be needed also
oh yeah and i second the no catback idea. nothing sounds as good as stock, especially when catless.
hell, id even send the 2007 stage 2 file to the tuner to start out with.
and there is really little difference between the zzp stage 2 and gms2. the gms2 tune file blows, so get a tuner to tune it. zzps canned tune wouldnt be much different
edit: and the s2 belt would be needed also
oh yeah and i second the no catback idea. nothing sounds as good as stock, especially when catless.
i dident jump pooky and if you want more information most of the wheel hop comes from the shity rear control arm bushings allowing the lower control arm to have over exagerated flex and that gets transmitted to the wheels and axles and you can fix 90% of wheel hop with spherical control arm bushings
maybe u should check the first 3 times u quoted me on this thread, u was saying that i had mounts backwards and talking about mounts not being rotated when you know that stage 1 otto mounts comes with a spacer to rotate the lsj/lnf mounts. All of that was bad info and u was not even paying attention to what i was telling him to do, u have gotten so use to telling people they are wrong and **** that u didnt even take the time to read what i posted before u was trying to correct me about something i was never even talking about, like saying that that rear ottp mount is rotated, i know that already and i was never even talkong about the rear ottp i was talking about the stage 1 front mount that comes with the spacer.
Senior Member
Joined: 01-28-11
Posts: 734
Likes: 1
From: Rochester Hills, MI
I would suggest a new clutch kit as well. even with the stock power, the stock clutch will start to slip under repeated abuse even if it's not worn out.
also switch out the dot 3 fluid with dot 4. remember the brakes and clutch are in the same system, so you will need to do both. boiling brake fluid is not fun and very dangerous.
another cheap and easy one is the strut grind mod to get a little more camber in the front. be sure to get an alignment afterwards.
also switch to the new style timing chain tensioner. be sure to remove the valve cover and secure the chain to keep tension before removal.
as many others have said, do the front and rear trans mounts.
also a zzp adjustable serpentine belt tensioner. the stock one sucks to horribly to work with.
Now before you go modding you car, you need to make sure it is in perfect running condition first. there is no reason why you should be spending money on mods when other parts of the car might need work.
-check all shocks/struts for leakage.
-ever changed the trans fluid? how many miles u have? (should be done at 65k)
-serpentine belt should also be replaced around 65k.
-check all pads and rotors and ensure proper function of caliper guide pins.
-make sure intercooler pump is functioning properly.
-pry rear control arm bushings on front suspension to make sure there is no movement along the shaft.
-lift the car and check for exhaust leaks.
-lift car and check for bad wheel bearings in the front and back.
-lift the front of the car and check for bad tie rod ends.
-check for leaking axle seals on the trans
-listen for any noise in the suspension
-make sure vacuum and boost are correct to check for leaks (18-19inhg at idle) (12-13psi max)
-anything else you can think of check it!!
Happy modding!
also switch out the dot 3 fluid with dot 4. remember the brakes and clutch are in the same system, so you will need to do both. boiling brake fluid is not fun and very dangerous.
another cheap and easy one is the strut grind mod to get a little more camber in the front. be sure to get an alignment afterwards.
also switch to the new style timing chain tensioner. be sure to remove the valve cover and secure the chain to keep tension before removal.
as many others have said, do the front and rear trans mounts.
also a zzp adjustable serpentine belt tensioner. the stock one sucks to horribly to work with.
Now before you go modding you car, you need to make sure it is in perfect running condition first. there is no reason why you should be spending money on mods when other parts of the car might need work.
-check all shocks/struts for leakage.
-ever changed the trans fluid? how many miles u have? (should be done at 65k)
-serpentine belt should also be replaced around 65k.
-check all pads and rotors and ensure proper function of caliper guide pins.
-make sure intercooler pump is functioning properly.
-pry rear control arm bushings on front suspension to make sure there is no movement along the shaft.
-lift the car and check for exhaust leaks.
-lift car and check for bad wheel bearings in the front and back.
-lift the front of the car and check for bad tie rod ends.
-check for leaking axle seals on the trans
-listen for any noise in the suspension
-make sure vacuum and boost are correct to check for leaks (18-19inhg at idle) (12-13psi max)
-anything else you can think of check it!!
Happy modding!
Airbox mod easiy on the $$$ the car loves it and my ears love it. It doesnt make huge power but it makes a big difference in how it feels to drive the car.HUGE GRIN WHEN YOU FIRST GET ON IT!!!!
maybe u should check the first 3 times u quoted me on this thread, u was saying that i had mounts backwards and talking about mounts not being rotated when you know that stage 1 otto mounts comes with a spacer to rotate the lsj/lnf mounts. All of that was bad info and u was not even paying attention to what i was telling him to do, u have gotten so use to telling people they are wrong and **** that u didnt even take the time to read what i posted before u was trying to correct me about something i was never even talking about, like saying that that rear ottp mount is rotated, i know that already and i was never even talkong about the rear ottp i was talking about the stage 1 front mount that comes with the spacer.
there isent anything to tell it is what it is
Senior Member
Joined: 05-13-08
Posts: 1,909
Likes: 1
From: Strasburg, VA/ Blacksburg, VA
I think those are some good first mods and as for the cold air intake Staged did a test on different intakes and the stock one flows very well and an airbox mod with the stock intake would do well. For a header/downpipe combo can't beat ZZP. Although some go with a Badmab header and ZZP downpipe. Whichever you choose. For a short throw TWM is the place to go. And for a stage kit ZZP's stage 2 is a good option. And a ZZP catback is the the best bang for the buck as far as finishing out the exhaust. That's just my .02
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