boost bypass
New Member
Joined: 07-14-05
Posts: 185
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From: michigan
Originally Posted by zinner
I got it all hooked up today and I can't tell any difference. I still don't get to above 11 PSI on the boost guage. I am 99% sure it's grounding properly at WOT. Must be no more boost to give 
I will see how it works with a 3.25 pulley once mine arrives.
I will see how it works with a 3.25 pulley once mine arrives.
report back when you have the 3 1/4 on.
Moderator Alumni
Joined: 08-26-04
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From: RTP, NC
Ok I reconnected my ground wire and I am definetly hitting 12.5 (indicated) on the guage.
So maybe it helps. I am not ready to totally dismiss it now. Can't wait to see how it works with a pulley upgrade.
So maybe it helps. I am not ready to totally dismiss it now. Can't wait to see how it works with a pulley upgrade.
New Member
Joined: 07-09-05
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: Pennsylvania
Originally Posted by zinner
Ok I reconnected my ground wire and I am definetly hitting 12.5 (indicated) on the guage.
So maybe it helps. I am not ready to totally dismiss it now. Can't wait to see how it works with a pulley upgrade.
So maybe it helps. I am not ready to totally dismiss it now. Can't wait to see how it works with a pulley upgrade.
Glad to hear bro
Would like to see what kinda times you would get with the mods ya have done. Keep us posted!
TIPS ON TESING CIRCUITS
A mulitmeter is a great tool, however it is not the always best tool.
A acircuit that only has one strand of wire will test good for continuity and will hold the full voltage the vehicle makes(12-15volts) HOWEVER.......it will not hold the amperage required to do any work.
A simple test light made out of a halogen headlamp bulb will never let you down when it comes to verifying if youve got power or if youve created a proper ground. This test light will draw up to 10amps so be sure to never use it on any functioning circuit, control module OR ANY YELLOW wiring harnesses or connectors(airbag system)
A mulitmeter is a great tool, however it is not the always best tool.
A acircuit that only has one strand of wire will test good for continuity and will hold the full voltage the vehicle makes(12-15volts) HOWEVER.......it will not hold the amperage required to do any work.
A simple test light made out of a halogen headlamp bulb will never let you down when it comes to verifying if youve got power or if youve created a proper ground. This test light will draw up to 10amps so be sure to never use it on any functioning circuit, control module OR ANY YELLOW wiring harnesses or connectors(airbag system)
Originally Posted by jem
SO let me understand, with this mod you can hit 12.5 PSI sooner or all the time or what?
Originally Posted by dj4all
And without getting a CEL???
Member
Joined: 04-22-05
Posts: 355
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From: philly
im going to attempt this week to wire this to one of the chanel signals on the emanage. since the emanage works with tps, well not on the cobalt of course due to drive by wire but we use accelerator position. (hint) i think i can set this up so that once you hit wot the emanage will turn off the bypass. 
Member
Joined: 04-22-05
Posts: 355
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From: philly
Originally Posted by ray@revitup
im going to attempt this week to wire this to one of the chanel signals on the emanage. since the emanage works with tps, well not on the cobalt of course due to drive by wire but we use accelerator position. (hint) i think i can set this up so that once you hit wot the emanage will turn off the bypass.
Moderator Alumni
Joined: 08-26-04
Posts: 4,944
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From: RTP, NC
Originally Posted by ToMeGuN
Bummer man I would rig something just a temp back to the battery ground and give it a shot ? Sucks if that doesnt work.
I would rig something just a temp back to the battery ground and give it a shot ? Sucks if that doesnt work.I think the point of the WOT throttle switch is so it's not ground 100% of the time.
Originally Posted by dj4all
Would this cause warranty issues should something fail becuase of the tinkering?
Only if the dealer A: even notices this mod if you do a professional install B: if they can PROVE this mod caused issue you will have to pay for the repairs required, your warranty however is very difficult(nearly impossible) to get voided.
Originally Posted by ray@revitup
im going to attempt this week to wire this to one of the chanel signals on the emanage. since the emanage works with tps, well not on the cobalt of course due to drive by wire but we use accelerator position. (hint) i think i can set this up so that once you hit wot the emanage will turn off the bypass.
Thats awesome Ray, be sure to let me know how it works
Member
Joined: 06-18-05
Posts: 238
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From: GTA, Ontario
Can someone post a How To if this ends up working. If not, maybe some pics on what wires need to be relocated and how - sorry for sounding dumb but this is all Greek to me (no offence to the World Cup champs)!!
Originally Posted by Maven
IF your going to attempt to modify this system or its operation YOU DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK, AND RISK POSSIBLE UNWARRANTIED ENGINE DAMAGE
With that said here is what you should do to modify this system.
Splice into circuit 1724(grey) from Supercharger Bypass Solenoid. Run the spliced in wire to a normally open single pole single throw micro-switch mounted on a bracket under your instrument panel and mounted in such a manner that the switch is closed with by the throttle pedal somewhere in the 80-100% range(based on your prefernce). Attach a wire to a verified good ground and then to the open terminal on the microswitch.
This modification will force full boost under all conditions when the switch is depressed and still allow full PCM control of boost under all other operating conditions.
With that said here is what you should do to modify this system.
Splice into circuit 1724(grey) from Supercharger Bypass Solenoid. Run the spliced in wire to a normally open single pole single throw micro-switch mounted on a bracket under your instrument panel and mounted in such a manner that the switch is closed with by the throttle pedal somewhere in the 80-100% range(based on your prefernce). Attach a wire to a verified good ground and then to the open terminal on the microswitch.
This modification will force full boost under all conditions when the switch is depressed and still allow full PCM control of boost under all other operating conditions.
Thats as How-to as I can get. Maybe Zinner or someone else can post pics.
Originally Posted by dj4all
Can someone post a How To if this ends up working. If not, maybe some pics on what wires need to be relocated and how - sorry for sounding dumb but this is all Greek to me (no offence to the World Cup champs)!!
And what do you mean if it ends up working????
Member
Joined: 06-18-05
Posts: 238
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From: GTA, Ontario
I have all the faith in you guys to make this project a reality. I'm just not clear on what it is you're trying to ultimately achieve. Are we looking for the same amount of boost, only sooner so as to cut down 1/4 mile times? Are we looking for MORE boost as to generate more HP - which is good for bottom and top end? That's all I'm trying to figure out.
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Joined: 08-26-04
Posts: 4,944
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From: RTP, NC
Originally Posted by Maven
Only if the dealer A: even notices this mod if you do a professional install B: if they can PROVE this mod caused issue you will have to pay for the repairs required, your warranty however is very difficult(nearly impossible) to get voided.
When I tapped in the boost soleniod wire I pulled back the loom and tapped into it about 4 inches down from the plug. Replaced the electrical tape and you wouldn't know it's even there unless you were troubleshooting that specific connection/part.
If it works out I am going to run the wire back the pedal a bit better however.
The only think you are going to see on mine is the lever switch and I found a good push button switch that I might be able to hide even better.
New Member
Joined: 07-14-05
Posts: 185
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From: michigan
Originally Posted by zinner
When I tapped in the boost soleniod wire I pulled back the loom and tapped into it about 4 inches down from the plug. Replaced the electrical tape and you wouldn't know it's even there unless you were troubleshooting that specific connection/part.
If it works out I am going to run the wire back the pedal a bit better however.
The only think you are going to see on mine is the lever switch and I found a good push button switch that I might be able to hide even better.
If it works out I am going to run the wire back the pedal a bit better however.
The only think you are going to see on mine is the lever switch and I found a good push button switch that I might be able to hide even better.
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Joined: 08-26-04
Posts: 4,944
Likes: 2
From: RTP, NC
Well just to update the thread so it doesn't get lost in the shuffle. I got the pulley and tool today from SFPH. I am going to install it some time this weekend I hope. Need to get some anti seize from the parts store.
The Stig
Joined: 05-11-05
Posts: 6,484
Likes: 1
From: New York
Originally Posted by zinner
Well just to update the thread so it doesn't get lost in the shuffle. I got the pulley and tool today from SFPH. I am going to install it some time this weekend I hope. Need to get some anti seize from the parts store.