OK. I gots a problem. I changed my coupler today and added new oil. Cranked itm, ran fine no problems didnt hear anything. Parked it. Later, I went to start it runs fine but there is a squeek from the charger. now i didnt do anything diffrent then the how twos and everything said. however i did notice the prongs on the blades and on the snout part one was longer than the other two. are they weights or something for balence? and i DIDNT( i know stupid) look how the coupler came off but there is only two ways it can go back on. so.. i think i got that part right any ideas on what could be the matter?

 

pictures would help. i think i know what your talking about but take a pic and upload it and i can tell ya if its on wrong or not

 

i see... so i need to tare it back apart and take pics so you can see if its wrong. the little humps are on the rods if that makes any sence. im tring to find out tonight so i can fix it tommrow

 

ya i'm not 100% sure and i don't want to tell you something and have it not fix your problem but have you tried it the other way. or maybe someone can take a pic of their's so you can compare.

 

naa i havnt tried the other way

 

that would probably be a start. and is everything tight?

 

yeah everything is tight and i watche dthe how to install a zzp coupler on youtube and its installed just like they said so i dont get it. it only does it about 2000 to 3000 thats why i was wondering dose it matter how the snout gose back on cause one rod is long than the other two on both the snout and the blade

bump

 

well i don't know for sure but i would assume if one is longer then the others then the coupler would probably have to go on a certain way. but i will leave that to someone who has done one to say yes or no

 

yeah....

http://www.solaraguy.com/viewtopic.php?p=448169

i found this site with a pic of how the coupler came off see how the rods have that extra little spaceing to keep metal to metal contact from happening? im pretty sure thats the correct way. mine is installed the other way and squeeks. but when you think about it. its ganan be the overall length no matter witch holes they go threw. any comments? cause i want to get it right when i tear it down the 2nd time.

 

I don't think the coupler is directional but can't be sure...save the oil if you take it apart to flip it.

 

ya no doubt that crap is expensive and its got maybe 30 min run time on it.

my question is why is 1 rod longer than the rest? there has to be a reason behind it im just not seeing it

 

No idea...it's gotta have something to do with the blades. Eaton said the oil is good upto maybe 75k-100k miles so I don't plan on doing anything with the coupler until it's time to change that oil. Maybe the coupler itself is bunk? Did you get it from zzp? Maybe you should order one from eaton or chevy if you can...sometimes they only have the assemblys (like the whole snout). Worse case scenario...the old coupler goes back in.

 

ya i got it from zzp. i still have the graphite one that came out. the only thought i can see is maybe there weights and need to be in a certin position for it to run smoothly. the thing is i know im nott he only one to do this, and hardly anyone is giving input. you know? only about 1/2 cup of oil came out of the s/c when i took the plug out and drained it.

 

I would think that there would be more oil because isn't the snout filled to at least 3/4 full? I don't remember, but I saw the how to. I'm not going to bash zzp because of their support but they definitely have some issues with quality control.

 

id like to do a turbo swap but... i cant find any bolt on swaps for 1k.

 

my guess is needle bearing fell over in the rotor assembly(think like U joint cap bearings)

 

well i ordered a brand new coupler from intense and oil and everything sapsoed to be in today, so ill prob tear it down this evening. whats this needle bearing? is it one of the bearings that holds the gears in line? and to fix that would i just push it back up in there?

ok people i took it back apart the couple looks fucky i didnt notice when i put it in cause i figured it was right but its not. i think im ganna post a how to on this. and post the problem i had.

 

on the coupler did your pegs go into the small holes or the holes with the raised bumps?

yA you can just line the needles back up in the bearing similar to ujoint style driveshaft bearings

 

they went in the hole with the hump but the coupler itself was egged. and off center

i ran a half tank threw the car yesterday no squeeks surges or anything. i think im good to go