What is the easiest way to dial in the snow performance stage 2 meth kit? I got it used, and have no instructions, and I dont think it is set up correctly as it is now, where should all the little knobs be on the controller and such?

 

i have my psi start knob at 8psi and full at 13....but since i drive alot of the highway i end up turning up to 10psi and 15psi or higher so i wont be using tons of meth in 5th gear. Best way is to dyno tune it to get it to work right, tune it for whatever setting you want and go from there.

 

Depends on what you are trying to do. Do you have a way of getting tuned for it? I run start 5psi, full 10psi. I am tuned for it with 75% meth/ 6gph nozzle.

Without a tune I would run washer fluid starting around 10 and full 15 or so. Honestly without a wideband to know what your afr is, you will not know how much meth to run. The more meth you run, the easier it is on your IDC and the 116 octane fuel allows you to be agressive with your timing.

When I first installed my meth I was tuned 11.6afr. With my set-up it pegged my wb at 10.0 when the meth kicked in.

 

Heres the only thing...

It is MUCH MUCH better to full blast your meth instead of having it progressively spraying...

 

why?

 

Why only "half-cool" the blower when its going to get really hot, really fast... You want as much cooling / detonation prevention as possible... as soon as you can get it...

Its easier to tune non-progressive, standard systems as well...

 

I disagree, tuning the progressive system is extremely easy, infact easier than full on as you can ramp your AFR better. A progressive system will also allow for mid throttle smoothness when your not at WOT or running high into the rpms. You can also dial your meth into a fast ramp or slow ramp as you desire, not only that you can get away with running a larger jet as you are controlling the flow giving you even more cooling ability than a straight on / off system.

 

I have hp tuners, and a wideband, so yes, I can tune for it, i have no idea what the nozzle is, I assume the one that comes with the kit, I also run 104 octane on occasion....... where abouts in PA are you located matego, Maybe I will make a trip down and you can help me figure it all out

 

^^hes from around the carisle area... more southern PA.... the only reason i know is that i picked up a header, DP, and strut bar from him... great guy!

 

I would rather have my supercharger being cooled as much as possible instead of just "partially" being cooled..

 

how long does it really take to go from 5psi to 10 psi when your at wot??

 

Short enough where theres not any reason to pay for a progressive controller...

And just long enough to not cool the supercharger to its full capabilities while its building boost and heat.

The standard kit is just the better buy...

I had even had one vendor steer me away from the progressive kit.. for the same reasons im telling everyone.

 

My blower is cool to the touch after many pulls, and my IAT2's are very low, so I am happy. Im not arguing against the standard kit, just stating that there are benefits to the progressive kit. Plus, I dont drive WOT all the time when accelerating and I get the benefits of cooling and a smooth AFR without a huge dump of meth.

Besides, he has the snowperformance stage 2 kit already, might as well use it.

 

You wont notice by "touching" the blower...

you will notice this in the temps of your IAT2s...

If you already have it... then hell yea, use it.. im just saying if your purchasing.. theres no real reason to get the progressive..

 

Carlisle isnt that far from me like 2 hours at most, tell him to get at me, my cell is 607-316-0869

 

There is going to be a time where its better to have a progressive kit then without and thats when you take a cross country trip. For example when your driving through the mountains in 5th gear at 80mph and your going up the mountain at 7lbs of boost and your spraying meth the ENTIRE time your going up that hill you can and WILL choke the car because the rpm's are not increasing and neither is the airflow and your continuing to dump in meth/water. I have personally felt this happen. It's nice to be able to control your meth. For example I do a ton of highway driving and I don't want to be spraying in 5th gear at 5lbs of boost. So I set my min psi at 10psi and my max at 15lbs when I am on the highway. However if you are strictly racing then you want your meth to be full on at the lowest psi possible. I mean I am pretty sure everyone here can hit atleast 10lbs of boost when they go wot. So set your max at 10lbs or lower for racing, but if your daily driving, conserve your meth because you don't NEED to be using it during daily driving.

 

Everyone has there uses and opinions...

Its good to hear both sides!

 

Agreed. We always get along great shortstack, even when we disagree or make different points, we generally come to the same conclusion. I just personally know from experience that if your driving through the mountains and spraying a lot of meth at 5lbs or 7lbs of boost in 5th gear going 80mph up that hill your car will choke a little and flood. Now of course you can downshift to 4th gear or even 3rd gear and have the higher rpms do more work and less supercharger work, but your wasting more gas that way.

I am just trying to show all sides of everything. In a strictly racing aspect yes, you would want your meth to be on full blast as soon as possible to keep the iat2's as low as possible. When daily driving however though I would rather have a progressive kit and set my min to about 7psi and my max at 10psi. Because if I pull onto the highway kinda hard and hit 5psi I don't need to be spraying for no reason and wasting the meth. However if I am really getting on it hard and hit 10psi + I have the meth there.

A lot of this also depends if your in WOT or not. If your not WOT you really shouldn't NEED to spray meth otherwise you are running to much timing or your iat2's are way to damn high lol.