2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Direct Injection Meth?

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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 07:15 PM
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ralliartist's Avatar
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From: Seneca, South Carolina
Direct Injection Meth?

anyone done it? I'm about to attempt it. I'm gonna drill and tap 4 90cc meth injectors into the intake manifold runners and then do a retune. Just wanted to see if anyone has done it. I got a srt buddy that has done it and has great results.

the reason for doing this is, right now I'm injecting in the intake before the throttle body and my IAT1's are like 15degrees but my IAT2's are like 90-100 degrees. So to keep the air from being heated up at all, I'm gonna direct inject after the blower so that when the air enters the motor, it's not freaking hot!

Object is to keep the air below 50 degrees when entering the engine. Turbo's make power from effiency and cool air. So that's what I'm trying to do.

thoughts?
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 07:16 PM
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sounds good. hope theory works
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 07:20 PM
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You'll need a solenoid so that the engine doesn't suck meth in during vacuum.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Smarty Art
You'll need a solenoid so that the engine doesn't suck meth in during vacuum.
i read the same thing in the SnowPerformance instructions...
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 07:24 PM
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it does work my buddy shaun is doing it on his IRL...a dual nozzle would work best running it before and after the blower to cool both the intake charge which will help with blower heat and help with the air going into the engine...im thinking about the same thing i was going to just spray direct but rodney from ais said it would be best to spray before the blower..so ima run that and go from there and see...keep me updated on ur findings
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 07:27 PM
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From: Seneca, South Carolina
Originally Posted by Smarty Art
You'll need a solenoid so that the engine doesn't suck meth in during vacuum.
thanks for the heads up! we'll do. I'm going to call cooling mist and talk to them about putting a kit together for me. I have their basic kit, so they'll just need to throw together everything else I need, like nozzles, solenoid, and some more hose.

Originally Posted by Raven SS
it does work my buddy shaun is doing it on his IRL...a dual nozzle would work best running it before and after the blower to cool both the intake charge which will help with blower heat and help with the air going into the engine...im thinking about the same thing i was going to just spray direct but rodney from ais said it would be best to spray before the blower..so ima run that and go from there and see...keep me updated on ur findings
well, I'm gonna be spraying through 4 nozzles. Maybe I'll downgrade to 50cc nozzles and keep my 3m pumping into the intake. I'll get some more info before I do it. Looking to do this in about a week or two.

Last edited by ralliartist; Apr 28, 2008 at 07:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 07:29 PM
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ur gonna need that trunk mount that snow preformance offers (i think its 8 gallons) but i think its gonna get to a point when ur over spraying...we can only run 25 degrees of timing..and i know theres no being "too cold" but u have to weight it out i mean if ur running 70-80 degrees at wot back to back to back then i would say ur not really being bothered by heat soak
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 07:29 PM
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Definitely subscribed to see how this pans out. Sounds like a great idea.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 07:39 PM
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From: Mulberry, Florida
Originally Posted by Raven SS
ur gonna need that trunk mount that snow preformance offers (i think its 8 gallons) but i think its gonna get to a point when ur over sprayin...we can only run 25 degrees of timing..and i know theres no being "too cold" but u have to weight it out i mean if ur running 70-80 degrees at wot back to back to back then i would say ur not really being bothered by heat soak
x2

i would def use some smaller nozzles so you don't quench combustion...
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 08:39 PM
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Yea, I'm not gonna spray much more than what I'm already spraying. I've had phenominal results from the 3m nozzle. So I'll try to stay around the 3m nozzles capacity. I'm definitely going to move to a trunk mounted bigger tank though. My 2.5 quart tank is kind of small.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 08:42 PM
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From: Sasebo Japan
AIS for the win
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 08:52 PM
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From: Seneca, South Carolina
I've been with cooling mist for a while. I prefer them.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 10:26 PM
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Where is the second IAT sensor located? One thing to conisder about this is where that second reading is taken and I would also like to know this myself.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 10:55 PM
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Your second Intake air temperature sensor is located behind the blower drive on the left (looking at the it) side of the engine. It is bolted to the top of the #1 cylinder intake runner.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 10:57 PM
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From: Seneca, South Carolina
good to know. can't wait to get started on this.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 11:51 PM
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Interesting. Plese do keep us posted!
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 12:09 AM
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I have been using the RebelAutoWorX Meth injection kit for a year and a half now, it has the spacer plate under the blower with dual nozzles. (I actually bought the kit from Tag Racecraft, thats how long I've had it, but I believe it was Mase's design and I think it went with him to Rebel)

I like the results but it is inconvenient to change the nozzles,
some sort of external nozzle replacement method would be a nice option.....

Currently with the TVS on there I have dual M4 nozzles and it works well to keep the iat2's and egt's stable, no quenching!
Uses fluid fairly quickly though.
My street tune with pump gas uses 22 degrees no problem, I haven't bothered trying to take it higher than that yet.

Last edited by my_bd; Apr 29, 2008 at 11:06 AM.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 07:24 AM
  #18  
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wow, I forgot all about that plate. I'll have to look into getting that. That's pretty much a solution without having to do any drilling/welding.

thanks bd

Last edited by ralliartist; Apr 29, 2008 at 07:24 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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