Distilled or not water + water wetter for the intercooler?
I just saw somewhere that it was better to use water during the summer (better heat dissipation).
Do we have to use distilled water or can we use normal water and this will not rust anything inside the intercooler, endplate etc.??
Also, by using water PLUS water wetter do you get better cooling? Or adding water wetter in "none" boiling water doesn't do anything?
I ask all of this because I would like to start installing the stu mod, heat exchanger and the dual pass endplate tommorrow
Oh and in order, with which one of these mods would you start to work? I thought:
Draining the coolant by removing the bottom hose of the heat exchanger then working on the:
1- GM Dual pass endplate
2- OTTP Heat exchanger
3- Stu mod
Do we have to use distilled water or can we use normal water and this will not rust anything inside the intercooler, endplate etc.??
Also, by using water PLUS water wetter do you get better cooling? Or adding water wetter in "none" boiling water doesn't do anything?
I ask all of this because I would like to start installing the stu mod, heat exchanger and the dual pass endplate tommorrow

Oh and in order, with which one of these mods would you start to work? I thought:
Draining the coolant by removing the bottom hose of the heat exchanger then working on the:
1- GM Dual pass endplate
2- OTTP Heat exchanger
3- Stu mod
Just used distilled water, WW is not worth it and its been proven to be. Dont use regular water from the tap or purified... Is not the same as distilled and it will hurt the system its in eventually.
How is WW "not worth it and its been proven to be"?
Its not meant to drop your overall coolant temp, its meant to keep your car from overheating. In places like the top of cylinder 4 in the LSJ, where the coolant passes over the other 3 before reaching there the coolant can be so heated by the time it gets there that it boils at cyl 4, raising the temp in that area.
WW won't let small pockets of boiling happen, because it kills the surface tension of water, so the coolant moves through faster and is able to pull out more heat from that area.
Its not meant to drop your overall coolant temp, its meant to keep your car from overheating. In places like the top of cylinder 4 in the LSJ, where the coolant passes over the other 3 before reaching there the coolant can be so heated by the time it gets there that it boils at cyl 4, raising the temp in that area.
WW won't let small pockets of boiling happen, because it kills the surface tension of water, so the coolant moves through faster and is able to pull out more heat from that area.
How is WW "not worth it and its been proven to be"?
Its not meant to drop your overall coolant temp, its meant to keep your car from overheating. In places like the top of cylinder 4 in the LSJ, where the coolant passes over the other 3 before reaching there the coolant can be so heated by the time it gets there that it boils at cyl 4, raising the temp in that area.
WW won't let small pockets of boiling happen, because it kills the surface tension of water, so the coolant moves through faster and is able to pull out more heat from that area.
Its not meant to drop your overall coolant temp, its meant to keep your car from overheating. In places like the top of cylinder 4 in the LSJ, where the coolant passes over the other 3 before reaching there the coolant can be so heated by the time it gets there that it boils at cyl 4, raising the temp in that area.
WW won't let small pockets of boiling happen, because it kills the surface tension of water, so the coolant moves through faster and is able to pull out more heat from that area.
We are not talking about the engine, its about the h/e and i/c system, which some people have tried and saw no results.
Also, WW "says" it makes larger vapor bubbles into small vapor bubbles (due to tension reduction) so that the water can heat exchange with a large surface area. Coolant does not move fast. That would have the opposite affect.. Water moving faster through a heat exchanger will heat exchange less.
Actually, boiling slows the coolant down, by evacuating the boiling portions faster WW speeds up heat transfer, thats what I was getting at...
Of course they're going to make the most wild claim they can to sell their product.
I never said it would help in the IC system, if it does, you're having huge problems and your engine is long gone...
Of course they're going to make the most wild claim they can to sell their product.
I never said it would help in the IC system, if it does, you're having huge problems and your engine is long gone...
Wow thanx for those answers all! I guess that Im gonna buy distilled water! 
OHH!!!! I must ask, is this ok too if I use demineralized water instead of distilled water?? Because its easier to find and cost less!

OHH!!!! I must ask, is this ok too if I use demineralized water instead of distilled water?? Because its easier to find and cost less!
True Shortstack, I found it at Walmart this afternoon thanx for the advice
. Now the front bumper is removed and the two fenders and I have to find out how Im gonna get that hoose out (bottom of the intercooler) easily...
. Now the front bumper is removed and the two fenders and I have to find out how Im gonna get that hoose out (bottom of the intercooler) easily...
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From: West Carrollton (Dayton), OH
Distilled water, no added junk to it + a splash of coolant to help with lubrication of the water pump, and a bottle of water wetter. That is my secret formula. I run a ported 2.6 w/ only an added cobra h/e and stu mod. No dual pass, no methanol. IAT2's are 130
:
I use WW and distilled water and seen a diff. from dexcool. Sitting at a light my IAT is nothing higher than 140. Then when i start to move it drops down to 118 in seconds. And i've noticed at the track i dont heatsoak as bad.
For the instance Im gonna try distilled water only this is what I bought
As soon as my stage kit from OTTP with a 2.7" pulley is installed Im gonna post a tread about how my IAT2s are. Im gonna have as cooling mods: OTTP heat exchanger, gm dual pass endplate and the STU mod 
Now with the GM Stage 2 and no cooling mods for an IAT1 around 88F my IAT2s go as high as 150F during a pull from the 2nd gear to mid of 4th. I repaired as well my bent intercooler I was able to unbend it, it got bent because of a little crash I had during the last winter. This will maybe help also because the intercooler was so sandwiched it could touch to the AC radiator!
As soon as my stage kit from OTTP with a 2.7" pulley is installed Im gonna post a tread about how my IAT2s are. Im gonna have as cooling mods: OTTP heat exchanger, gm dual pass endplate and the STU mod Now with the GM Stage 2 and no cooling mods for an IAT1 around 88F my IAT2s go as high as 150F during a pull from the 2nd gear to mid of 4th. I repaired as well my bent intercooler I was able to unbend it, it got bent because of a little crash I had during the last winter. This will maybe help also because the intercooler was so sandwiched it could touch to the AC radiator!
I ran distilled water with redline water wetter at the track a few weeks ago 100 degrees out, horrible IATs I was starting runs at 150 degrees. It didnt do jack ****. Your better off just leaving what you have in now, no point in changing it


