Hey guys my dual pass came in today, and i was wondering do i have to really take the instake mani off? or is there a way i can jsut leave it on, i know you gotta drain out the coolant, but imma do that straight from the pump, but besides taht do i really have to take it off, because i really dont wanna haha, if i do gotta take it off how many bolts are there and are there any tips to getting it off?

 

I think you will have to because you need to flip two of the cores inside the manifold for the dual-pass to work.

 

oo ok, and how hard is it to flip them cores? they just slide right out right?

 

Make a how-to for us mechanically inclined members when you're doing your install.

 

I have no idea I don't have the dual pass but it shouldn't be too hard just be careful with them. Where did you get the dual-pass from and how much was it? You doing option A or B?

 

haha i will, imma have a certified mechanic help me out with this also

i got it from cobalt-addiction, and it cost like 240 shipped, but wats option a or b?

 

This is the directions for installing the dual-pass. http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/pdfs/sidekit.pdf

It has in there both options. Option B adds another coolant tank and is supposed to make sure all the air is bleeded out where option A I am assuming is much harder to bleed.

 

i cant view them instructions for some odd reason, but another surge tank would be nice, and i have to bleed things?

 

You need Adobe to view it. Its a .pdf. The option B is more complicated but not impossible. You need a redline tank, cap, more hose, an extra T fitting, it has in there what all you need. Some people asked about this before, try to search for a dual-pass thread, I know there is a couple on here. Blown 4-Banger's is pretty good but don't follow it step for step because his is set up for reverse flow. He pulled the opposite cores GM tells you to.

 

You will deff need to take off the intake mani. There is no really easy way to do this. The instructions won't let you know about the two bolts under the intake manifold. These are a bitch to take out. You can only turn the bolts a quarter turn at a time. You also have to take the after cooler pump bracket off to get to those two bolts. There is a how to on here somewhere. I used it.

 

dam how can i get adobe and i saw the how to's on here but im still confused

 

adobe: google "adobe acrobat reader"

 

Yeah just go to www.adobe.com and get reader 8, its free, just download and install. Yeah I wish someone would do a good how-to with excellent pictures and descriptions. The ones on here help but I think they could be improved. I am thinking about doing the dual-pass set up eventually too.

 

http://www.adobe.com/products/reader/

This is not a project to dive into without researching it very well beforehand... I don't mean this as an insult but I don't think you're quite ready to tackle it. Read up some more, decide which option (A or B) you're going with as well as whether or not you're replacing or adding a second heat exchanger, and then round up parts before you start. Better to do it all at once in my opinion.

But to answer one of your questions, the laminova tubes will want to stick in the manifold. Cover the edges with a piece of rubber or rag and carefully pull them out with a large pair of channel locks or pliers. Once you break the seal (about a 1/4") they will slide out the rest of the way.

I have an extra Ion coolant tank, cap, powdercoated brackets and hardware, the orifice, and some other odds and ends that I'll put up for sale later tonight if I get time to take some pics.

Mine:

Whoa I need to trim the ratty edge of my heat sheath, haha.

 

Do you have anymore pics of your dual-pass set up and I wonder if an ingalls can fit still with that tank there unless you have to rotate it. How hard do you think setting this all up was for option B?

 

ok im getting adobe reader right now, i am deff going to look more into this, and yes later on i am adding the C/A second H/E due to funds and them not having them in yet i cant get it yet, but will once it comes time, and its not an insult your just helping out a fellow member

im looking at the instructions, and i think im doing option A the thing is i thought that the y fitting goes onto the line with cool air into the dual pass on the top and lower thingys haha on the dual pass and the return hot coolant goes in the middle and back to the H/E

 

It wasn't really hard, just time consuming figuring out how the supercharger and intake manifold unbolt, especially the bolts hidden above the intercooler pump bracket. I made the brackets last week at my dad's house and have been forming the rest of a plan while they were out at the powdercoater's.

There is a channel underneath the washer fluid bottle to route the return hose from the reservoir and keep it far away from the pulleys and serpentine belt. There is a plastic clamp underneath the radiator support (near the headlight) keeping the bleed line away from the supercharger pulley.

I was wondering about an Ingalls fitting myself... Something tells me the tank is too close but I haven't seen a picture of the brace in awhile and obviously don't have one myself. I'm waiting to see if GMPP releases their wheel hop solution.

 

dam man those are some really good pics and i was reading the instructions, and i am doing option A, now i got this like huge like rubber band type thing might be a seal but for what? does anyone know?

 

+ rep Blur .fx

 

Thanks!

If your auto parts store stocks Gates hoses I even have the part numbers. I used three of the preformed slightlymorethan 90°s (part #20333), two on my Cobra heat exchanger and the last I cut the long end down a bit to make the bend to go down into the windshield washer fluid cavity.

Gates part #19666 is a funky 180° that I cut into two pieces and used on the short 90°s at the dual pass endplate. Part #19630 got cut up into several pieces, for the endplate and the short section between the stock heat exchanger and the intercooler pump. It had the perfect 20° angle to connect the two after reclocking the output of the pump at the heat exchanger.

Somehow I managed to go through 10 or 11 feet of 3/4" hose, but I did replace everything instead of cutting any of the OEM lines so I can return the car to stock easily.

I had a hard time finding the brass tee, I finally found one for PEX tubing but I had to use their 1" version to squeeze 3/4" heater hose onto. Fits nicely though.

I can't find the Watts part numbers for the bleeder assembly but it took 4 fittings to come up and make the right angle like mine... 1/8" male to 1/8" female NPT street elbow, 1/8" to 1/8" NPT closed nipple, 1/8" female to 1/4" male bushing, and a female NPT 1/4" to barbed 1/4" fitting.

If you plan to wrap the hoses in DEI Heatsheath beware... 1" Heatsheath doesn't slide onto 3/4" (1" outside diameter) heater hose very easily, hahah. I'd go with 1 1/4" wrap if I did it again.

I'll have to copy this info into my own how to thread eventually.

 

Thanks for the pics I really appreciate it. What is better about doing option B than A besides bleeding the air? Any benefit to holding more coolant?

 

A little more resistance to heat soak.

 

can anyone tell me how to bleed our coolant system?

 

Nice Install.

Doc

 

Dual-pass endplate with GM option B.



Jose