It would mean your is fast; and until you can purchase some traction mods, it will be a nice test for you and your car.

 

when i was on the dyno every degree i added was good for 3.5 hp for me but i was running a much higher boost.

As for the meth thing i dyno'd with it on and off made more hp with the meth on and less timing

 

if you can't break 300 with that, you have some serious issues.
im on the 3.1 pulley {17psi for those who care}
when i say this. have faith.

90/10 meth to water mix.
11.5-11.6 afr. actual, not commanded. commanded is void with this mix. add timing.

where you end up with timing is your own deal bub.

 

when did you decide to get one? Didn't sound like your kind of thing...

 

I was with the group psychosteve tuned this weekend. He was able to to get 272 hp @ 6100 rpm and 253 tq @ 4650 rpm from tvs 80mm. These were consec runs on the dyno. The tech didnt know to take it up to 7000 rpm. I'll post the graph later.

 

i have had one for a while now.

 

134* seems kinda high for 60* ambient temps. When I was screwing around earlier and taking some logs (~80 degree weather) I was barely topping out at 140*.

 

he is running 20 psi your running 15 with pressure comes heat.

 

Yes I know What I am talking about, HE is not tuned for meth therefore he is making less power than he would if he just ran on gasoline alone.

Water Meth or Meth injection has it's place and it seems to be all the rage right now but truth be known UNLESS your Tuned specifically to run on it you will LOSE power.

So then you Tune for Water/Meth or Meth and when the pump fails so does the engine.

I Just don't believe Water/Meth systems are reliable enough for everyday use.

There is a lot more to coming up with the right Chemical Cocktail than purchasing a kit and throwing it on.

I will give you a little hint, You make the most power on the least octane.

This should stir the Pot LOL.

 

i disagree as long as you have a light indicator as to when the pump is on on the proper gauges to monitor everything, ie. a scanforce with the annunciator set to go off at .3 KR or higher and your not a complete moron and keep the tank full you will be perfectly fine... i ran an aggressive race tune for months with this set-up never having one single problem and i use the pump daily for almost a year now...

 

I agree with you on most parts.

But you know you have to explain yourself a little better on the most power on least octane part cause its looking like you are saying race fuel is a myth.

 

i am a strong beliver that it is complete morons that blow engines not, aware drivers that know how a engine works and what it likes and dosent... if you know whats up you can get away with alot... i my self have never blown an engine and i have drove alot of fast muscle cars in exccess of 600hp + spray and not one of the engines i built has ever let me down... it all in the driver/builder

 

The other night there was a civic at the track with a GT42, on one of the runs it UBER bogged off the line, and missed a gear, then it ran through to a 13.19 @ 139 mph

Although I will say, he made it down the track the next run, and managed a 10.17 @ 151

 

so did you happen to make any runs? Have you figured out your leak in the intake manifold yet? I know when I put mine back together, I was careless enough to not notice a missing O ring, good thing I test the manifold with a hose first and saw a small leak. I went and bought a new O ring at the parts store and now I'm good to go.

 

the bottom line of my timing chart starts at 7 degrees and ends at 18 so theres ALOT of improvement to be made on timing

at the dyno I was 11.1 to 11.4 AFR pretty much through the entire run, I make an adjustment and trim some fuel to try to get it closer to 11.7 and then on the street I see mid 10s?

This is the 2nd time this has happened, im wondering maybe its because im dynoing in 4th gear and then logging on the street in 3rd gear? I dunno im baffled but the last 2 trips to the dyno it seemed to be a tad rich and I adjusted then I go to the street and im pig rich.

 

should be the opposite on the dyno.

rich as hell on the rollers.
lean on the street.

i have to switch maf cal's to dyno my car because i can't pull enough fuel out via pe to get it close to street afr i run.

 

ok well that makes no sense

 

make perfect sense. less air flow. less load.

 

no it doesnt. it means he had a crappy launch and needs to work on it

 

ah i found what i think is causing it

I left the piston protection on at 3600rpm

 

ah i found what i think is causing it

I left the piston protection on at 3600rpm

 

so epic, it had to be posted twice!

 

nah my other lappy is just crappy

 

i think your talking about the fact that higher octane require greater energy to break the bonds correct?
if not do explain.

i always thought that race gas had higher BTU's anywho... maybe not someone wanna enlighten me?

why is piston protection only when your on the street?

 

Not everyone who buys a Water/Meth kit understands it like you do.

The general consensus is that if you buy and install a Water/Meth kit with no other changes, you gain Power and it is fool proof, NOT!!!!

This is so far from the Truth it is crazy.

Here is Another HINT, combine 50/50 Water Meth and 87 Octane, Ofcoarse with Careful monitoring, Use this info at your own risk.

Ted