dunno if this has been posted but how good are the stock mounts in our cars? i have on 05 SS/SC and when i left off the gas and then get back on it my car jerks really bad and if i tap the pedal a little harder it almost wants to throw the motor threw the hood anyone else have this prob in the past and any suggestions would be great....im guessing new Turbotech mount and zzp's rotated rear and front tranny mounts

 

Up

 

I just installed.the TTR stop mounts the engine doesn't flex at all now.

 

The engine mounts in these cars are designed with safety in mind, meaning the engine moves forward in an accident to prevent crushing your legs. Which would you prefer - a wheelchair the rest of your life or a little bit of drivetrain slop?

 

Here ya go bud. Send em a PM, and have all your questions answered. Mounts are gonna mostly help with wheel hop, unless your stock ones are just plain worn out.

Cobalt SS Network - View Profile: Powell Race Parts

 

Alright i can see some sarcasm here all i mean is my car jerks around alot and it doesn't feel right thinking theres probably something wrong

 

Yea i think there worn my car just feels weird ill have to stop by and take u for a spin

 

OP I am thinking if you have an 2005 its possible that the control arm bushings are worn out, and thats causing the movement you are talking about, it it resolves itself in movement in the car as you let off the gas or accellerate causing torque steer aggravated by control arm movement.

Engine/transmission mounts are pretty sturdy in the Cobalt, rotated mounts aside...

so have someone take a close look at the control arm bushings. Here is a picture of worn control arm bushings in an automatic 2.2 2005 with steel arms


Hope this helps.

 

thanks you so much for the info ill def take a look at this with my buddy hes a mechanic

 

Mine feels exactly the same, I think of it as if I'm riding a bull

 

the stock ss/sc mounts are complete ****. buy lnf ones and problem solved. id do it pretty soon or your flex pipe will break off like mine did due to excessive engine movement. when i put on the lnf mounts it was like a whole new car.

the stiffness of the mounts has nothing to do with safety in a collision. they are there to reduce vibrations from the engine and drivetrain into the cabin for comfort. the only way the engine will move forward in a crash is if the mount separates from the mouting point on the frame, and its going to be moving towards the cabin, not forward.

 

WOW!!! that is horrible!!!!! hey Powell i am about to send you a PM

 

yep thats how i broke my DP... and im just figuring out my bushings/mounts may have gone bad....

 

How realistic is this post ? I personally never heard that in my life before , im not saying ur lying or anything but its kinda interesting, does that mean that my stock mounts are safer than having solid mounts or rotated mounts ?

 

upgraded tranny mounts might be my favourite $$ per performance results i've spent.

I'd recommend highly. Powell makes good ****

 

I have a regular Cobalt not an SS, but today my husband found the driver's side has a damaged control arm bushing similar to Powell's picture (haven't taken the arm off yet so don't know full extent of damage). The vehicle was aligned in February 2012. Could the bushing have become that damaged in 9 months or should there have been enough damage to be seen when the alignment was done? (They put it back on the rack after the initial alignment, said it had "radial tire pull" and put that tire on the rear.)
Also, we recently replaced a warped rotor on the same side when we replaced the brake pads. This eliminated nearly all of the steering wheel shudder we had. Could the bit of shudder I still get at times be from the damaged bushing?



UPDATE: Replaced rear bushing 11/19/2012; it pretty much looked like the above. Has anyone ever had this problem with the front bushing?

This kept the "ears" from lining up with holes in the frame. It took a long time, but we finally got it back to the left enough to get the arm remounted.

 

Based on what you are saying, I would guess the alignment shop missed the bushing ( some folks just dont look/know/care) and the tire was worn from that, and putting it to the rear put a fresh tire with more tread and better able to deal with an arm constantly moving out of position.Same goes for braking , the arm moves forward when you brake and back when you accellerate, not a good deal especially if one side is broken and the other is not.

Best bet?? Replace both arms with alloy FE5 arms The castor angle will change slightly with the alloy arms and thats a good thing. Try CED or Rock Auto for best prices on arms. Dorman have some tiawanese alloy arms that will work well and cost less. Good luck.