Gauging vendor interest. (COOLING MOD)
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Joined: 06-22-08
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From: PA
You get the tank at Auto Zone for $15, the elbows at Home Depot for like .69 cents apiece, and the sealant there for like $4 per tube. The elbows come in all sorts of shapes, and this way you can build to your specifications. The brackets/mounting/hose stuff is of course extra.
I'm using a ls coolant tank...it's the option b tank give or take mounting tabs.
PS-->Using an aluminum tank would be somewhat counterproductive as it would conduct heat from the engine compartment and raise coolant temps as your engine get's hotter. The plastic will still conduct heat, just less. Ideally you'd want to shield the new tank and use silicone lines but it would be more expensive and not be cost effective.
Last edited by theneelster; Sep 22, 2008 at 08:21 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
so you liked my idea huh? https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...=126618&page=8 post #133
I won't knock stu because he's actually producing something, just if you want to do this yourself get a tank that has a threaded pressurized cap it would be better as the system is pressurized. There are plenty of factory tanks that you can make work with this project you just have to improvise on the inlet (chop+drill and use a 3/4" connector with o-ring gasket and gasket sealer); the outlet should be 3/4" however.
I'm using a ls coolant tank...it's the option b tank give or take mounting tabs.
PS-->Using an aluminum tank would be somewhat counterproductive as it would conduct heat from the engine compartment and raise coolant temps as your engine get's hotter. The plastic will still conduct heat, just less. Ideally you'd want to shield the new tank and use silicone lines but it would be more expensive and not be cost effective.
I'm using a ls coolant tank...it's the option b tank give or take mounting tabs.
PS-->Using an aluminum tank would be somewhat counterproductive as it would conduct heat from the engine compartment and raise coolant temps as your engine get's hotter. The plastic will still conduct heat, just less. Ideally you'd want to shield the new tank and use silicone lines but it would be more expensive and not be cost effective.
Last edited by hatrickstu; Sep 23, 2008 at 12:07 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Joined: 06-22-08
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From: PA
Since you deleted the surge tank with your setup there's no where for the air to bleed out and if the cap isn't sealed tight that's where the pressure is going to build and pop the cap causing coolant to overflow. At least in theory.
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Joined: 03-07-08
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From: TNARMS
but that's why he drills a small hole in the top of the tank.
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Joined: 12-09-07
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From: San Antonio, TX
well ill be getting this soon but. I have an extra h.e and the dual pass. will the connections be diff or pretty much the same. take the one that goes into the end plate and replace it. so it comes from the extra tank to the end plate? and then take the other line coming from the tank and connect it with the one going to the stock h.e? or do i just plug it with the stock hose that was going from the filler into stock h.e with a connector? which would of been the second one coming from the stock filler into the stock h.e?
quick question. i know that the more cooling the better but, how much of a temp diff in iat2 would there be between these two ideas:
1. your mod, plus the zzp h/e
2. your mod, zzp h/e and dual pass
because if i read through this thread right, the dual pass does about the same thing as your mod. is that right? they both serve to delay heatsoak?
1. your mod, plus the zzp h/e
2. your mod, zzp h/e and dual pass
because if i read through this thread right, the dual pass does about the same thing as your mod. is that right? they both serve to delay heatsoak?
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