thats typically how things work, everyone else is wrong, never the person arguing against everyone else.

 

Haha I'm not expecting anything to go wrong and I inspected that thing like crazy. Looked pretty solid. Plus you added a bunch of sealant in places that could weaken. Props for a good custom mod that I didn't have to take the time to make.

 

Noooooo, but on a serious note the thing looked solid, and it looks like you covered any area that might weaken with sealer so props for a good mod.

 

Noooooo, but on a serious note the thing looked solid, and it looks like you covered any area that might weaken with sealer so props for a good mod.

 

Noooooo, but on a serious note the thing looked solid, and it looks like you covered any area that might weaken with sealer so props for a good mod.

 

Noooooo, but on a serious note the thing looked solid, and it looks like you covered any area that might weaken with sealer so props for a good mod.

 

Noooooo, but on a serious note the thing looked solid, and it looks like you covered any area that might weaken with sealer so props for a good mod.

 

Noooooo, but on a serious note the thing looked solid, and it looks like you covered any area that might weaken with sealer so props for a good mod.

 

thats one of those R&D things that apparently cost me no money to work with.

 

Noooooo, but on a serious note the thing looked solid, and it looks like you covered any area that might weaken with sealer so props for a good mod.

 

thats one of those R&D things that apparently cost me no money to work with.

 

holy multiple posts batface!

 

God damn thats a common thing around here now ha...

 

thats one of those R&D things that apparently cost me no money to work with.

 

oh well idc who says what u take ur time to do this and all and ship it out as a whole kit ready to be installed i dont think its a bad price at all. dont worry about bashers or haters man

 

jesus f-bombing christ! pages 5-8 so far are utter crap and ruin the thread... why bother guys? do you get off on trying to sound so smart? "i'm going to let every1 know how silly they are for spending $160 on something I can make for far less..." get over it. in NY, the labor rate for car work is $96 an hour.

if the guy takes the time to do the following:

1) mod his car with something that works very well
2) write a how2 on it to share his knowledge and hard work with others...
3) HAND ASSEMBLE the entire thing for people who a) dont want to make it, b) can't make it, c) don't have time to make it, or my favorite, d) people who like it but think they're getting ass raped on price!

YOU FOOLS! jesus go out and make one yourself if you're so damn handy! save YOURSELF the $$, you're not saving any1 any $$ by trying to sound cool and flaming the OP and insulting him, or any1 who bought it. even if stu decides to make say $100 on something, you think your injen intakes cost $200+ in aluminum? NO!

stop threadjacking, and GET THE $%^& OUT. the main point of this mod is not to have a $160 coolant tank, jesus no. it's so you can throw ice in there for super cold coolant for your intake mani. oh, wait... you know that already, or I can assume you do. who would bash something without knowing exactly what it does?

I'm sorry this post has nothing to contribute to the thread, but my god some people are just way too ******* ignorant, condescending, and just plain rude and it bothers the living **** out of me.

::end rant::

and now, to add to the thread... thanks ******** for pissing me off....

in essence, that will add the option b's "easy bleeding" capability to this ice box reservior. unless i'm misunderstanding something, your tank adds extra coolant to the system, whereas option b is simply an expansion tank for bleeding purposes. could you run a line from the bleeder on the stock H/E to a nipple on your 'stu tank' and it will bleed AND serve as an ice box??

 

i havent messed with a bleeding system much because mine bled so quickly. it doesnt seem like it would be hard to do though.

 

so an extra nipple can be added to the tank on the bottom, and a line could be ran to the stock H/E. but then again, since you have a lot of coolant in your tank and it is the highest point in the intercooler system, the air would have to rise to that point. gravity would force the fluid downward and fill any air pockets, am i correct in assuming that?

 

you are correct in assuming that. the only place i ever had get blocked up with air was in the endplate itself. you could attach a nipple, but i dont know how you would fasten it as secure as the others.

 

yes i believe that is what allows it to bleed easily. i only ever had problems in the bleeding process with air stopping in the endplate. after that? golden. you could add a bleed nipple, but i honestly dont know if you could secure it as well as the others

 

**** these double posts i am going crazy

 

interesting... good to know. yea, the water circulates horizontally through the laminovas so if air gets to the top of the cores or to the top of the endplate and stayes there, that could be a pain, whereas in other parts of the system the flow is vertical. again just an assumption.

one could just take some fluid and pour it into the tube on the IN of the endplate while holding the line vertically an keep adding fluid until it is purged. g2 love gravity

as for cooling, there's a guy who has a sale for a cx racing heat exchanger $150 shipped. when i do this stu-option b style system, i'm going to do the dual pass endplate and another heat exchanger all at once so i know i'll have some sick cooling. might as well do it right the first time. the exchanger is this one http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=HTEX will that fit if i keep the stock H/E?

edit... there are pics of it installed on cobalts, but to be honest i don't know if the stock h/e is installed as well, can't tell.

 

Step 9-
This is the most crucial step of install. We will now attach both hoses to the reservoir. First we will attach the hose running to the heat exchanger from the bottom of the reservoir. MAKE SURE YOU LUBRICATE THE NIPPLE AND DO NOT TWIST WHEN PUTTING THE HOSE ON. Clamp the hose down. Now put the reservoir back to where it will mount up (you can mount it now if you like) and use caution when moving it so you do not strain the bottom nipple and hose. You should be able to just slide the hose on, but whatever you do, do not twist the hose because you could risk separating the sealant. Just be gentle and you will be fine. On the hose running from the endplate to the side nipple on the tank, you will have to cut some off. The reason I did not do this is because I did not want to mistakenly cut this hose to short. Simply hold the hose up near the side (about how it would be when mounted) along with the elbow and cut accordingly. Obviously the elbow already has the hose mounted to run onto the tank nipple, but I would measure, cut hose, connect the hose on the other end of the elbow, then mount on the reservoir. Again use, soapy water when putting all hose ends on. Finish by clamping all of your hose ends down with the supplied clamps. Mount the reservoir again if you have not.

Just make sure you keep an eye on the fluid level and check the connections for leaks. The most common leak point is the bottom seal of the tank, but if you were careful it should be fine. If it is leaking you will need to pull the reservoir off, buy some waterproof sealant from an auto-parts store and re-seal it yourself. Again, the other systems I have installed did not leak after I put the hoses on gently. ENJOY AND POST UP YOUR RESULTS!!!

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...stu+mod&page=3

 

thats on the first tank you dipshit. ive already said i resolved this issue threw a new tank. read tool.

 

ok ****...i was just refrencing the ******* post you said that in...that was the thread that I gained most the Info. about your mod. I am glad you fixed the tank and I am glad that it works better. I wasn't informed of you fixing the tank until way after I read that old thread.