As titles states I just ordered a OEM headgasket and Arp head studs for the cobalt. I have all the signs of a blown headgasket. Coolant in oil cap, white smoke at WOT and losing coolant. So now for the LSJ guru's give me some pointers on replacing the gasket and studs. There is no how-to on the forums and I have no service manuals, if anyone has any literature on this it would be greatly appreciated! Whats the correct torque specs for the head and studs? how did you go about doing it? how did you do the timing chain? and the cam alignment? This will be my second HG job I did the HG on my old b16 civic coupe. So I think it could be interesting day once the job is underway.

 

Grab a GM shop manual or a Hanes manual, it will be your best friend... That way it will be step by step for you.

 

are those available locally? and I ordered the arp studs from you! hope they are in stock

 

Most local public libraries have auto manuals you can borrow for free!

 

Really I did not know that! I guess since I haven't been to a library in years.I will look into this though! do you have the studs in stock to ship out monday?

 

Gmtunersource.com. Somewhere on there are build books. Or you can google ecotec build book you should find something.

The job itself is very easy. I had my head on and tqd within 30min and that was going slow. Timing is also easy search around redline forums dot com for timing. If you want PM me an when I get home I'll shoot you some links I used.

 

Yeah, I have used them many times, they should have them there.

We sure do, if ordered now, it should be there by Wed or Thursday this next week here

 

already ordered #19662

 

Got it, we will ship them monday for you.

 

Great I appreciate it!

 

your dealer can print you off torque specs and illistrations too. i had to go to my dealer and ask for a printout when i had to re time my car. make sure there is no coolant in the holes where the head studs thread in. if there is liquid in there your studs wont torque down properly because the liquid has no where to go. some might work its way out over time and then your studs will loosen. you will then lift the head. no good! and btw Cometic makes bad ass gaskets. they are a multi layer gasket and re usable in some instances

 

what all exactly has to be removed I am getting mixed signals. major components Im getting are Header,SC,Intake Manifold,Injectors, valve cover, cam sprockets, front timing cover? crankshaft balancer?Alternator?

 

anyone with access to alldata should be ale to pdf you a guide, i would get it for you but i'm super busy today

 

alldata refers to what?

 

http://www.alldata.com

 

oh go figure a site that you have to pay for how convienent lol

 

Yeah i looked it up and we don't have the head replacement procedure on there, but it does have instructions/diagrams for the timing system.

 

http://www.******************/forums...n-install.html

obviously replace the *** with the site I gave you in pm.

 

Yes I have viewed that link thanks very helpful Im just trying to figure out what needs to be taken off for this job and what I can slide with leaving on for instance the crankshaft balancer I dont see why it needs to be removed

 

new cam gear bolts
new crank bolt
front cover gasket

the front has to be pulled, this is why you remove the crank pulley.

don't half ass it.

 

thanks for you're input! will stop by gm to pick these up.

 

i need the torque spec for the stud into the block... i have the head torque spec for the nuts but need to know how tight these go into the block itself

 

SC, injectors, (removing the alternator will make it easier, but I don't think is required), intake manifold, exhaust manifold, valve cover (how else are you going to get the head bolts out?), front timing cover (you have to remove the crank balancer/pulley to remove the timing cover), cam timing gears.

Yout must replace the cam timing gear bolts and crank balancer bolts. While you have it all apart it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the timing chain tensioners and timing chain as well.

Also, make sure you have a degree wheel so you can torque the head bolts properly.

Install the 10 large head bolts using a torque angle meter and torque them to 22 lbs ft plus 155°. After torquing the ten large fasteners in the correct order, install the four front torx head bolts (2 inside,2 outside) and torque them to 18 lbs ft.

 

Bump for stud/block torque spec

 

search ecotecforums.com for torque specs