if you are just rotating it, with the chain still connected, all is good. They won't line back up. But if the chain jumped a tooth or something, then you'll have to redo it.

 

really? thats good to know! I really didnt want to do it over again

 

when you say three steps should i torque to say 22 then to like 60 , then 85?

i am doing springs and diamond pistons/NBS/ported head

i also am gonna replace all the hydraulic lash adjusters for piece of mind

 

how do head gaskets get blown????? i think i got one. could explain my white smoke at wot and my coolant that seems to disapear slowly over time....

 

LOL if its not one things its another while putting the engine back together I was putting the idler pulley on and I dropped the longer main bolt to it, in the hole of the from located in the wheel well so that sucker is a gonner. Comes to find out its a special bolt that no ace hardware will carry so now its a waiting to game to see when this bolt will arrive.

 

I did that like 5 times. Just kept squishing my fingers down in there to get it.

 

you can spin it backwards till it lines up for piece of mind, it wont hurt nothing... if you spin it forward it takes a gillion times to line up again trust me i did it, my arm was sore for three ******* days,

also when you set up the timing and you had the crank sprocket off did you spin the crank until the accy drive lined up to make sure your balance shafts were in the correct orientation? if you have nbs its not needed?

this could cause unwanted vibration and false knock.

 

lol yea well I heard it roll down the chassis when it fell into the opening in the fenderwell and I bet its stuck at the bend near the bottom of the frame. so its gone just going to have to order one.

I never removed the the crank sprocket so this maybe a possibility

 

its not mentioned in the build book cause they go threw and reset the whole thing but when doing just timing accy needs to be aligned first then timing.

otherwise how do you know the lobes on the balance shafts are in the correct orientation as opposed to the counter rotating force?

 

I took a small string, tied it around a smaller magnet, and pulled my bolt out of the hole that way

 

this timing thing its slightly more complicated then people lead on



very important tool when working on newr cars!!!

http://www.toolking.com/Images/Produ...umWILW9102.jpg

 

^^^def agreed. I have one and i've used it sooo many times its unnnnbeelieveable

 

hip, what's the bs timing you're talking about? I didnt realign those, nor did the chain come off that puts them in the loop.

 

its almost my favorite tool next to a remote hose clamp tool.

http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/upl...pPliers_TM.jpg

im not understanding what your asking? the accy drive it needs to be aliened first, if you didnt remove the chain then yes its in the correct alignment but how do you know that it was timed correct with the crank, if you dont line up all the marks together meaning all 6 timing marks

"So here’s how the accessory chain drive should look when
installed correctly. The No. 1 piston should be at TDC, the keyway
on the crank should be in the 12 o’clock position and the
silver link at the bottom of the gear should be in line with the
dot on the crank gear. The intake balance shaft should have the
gold link lined up with the green dot behind the gear, with the
arrow pointed up. The exhaust balance shaft should have the
silver dot lined up with the white dot behind the gear and the
arrow pointed down. Got that? Good."


timing:

"Now is the time to start positioning the cam
drive chain by placing the crank gear with its
arrow pointed in the 5 o’clock position and
this purple-colored link on the arrow.
Position the intake cam gear (it will have an
“I” marked on it) on the cam and hand tighten
the bolts to hold the gear in position. Make
sure the blue colored chain link lines up with
the single line on the adjustable cam gear.
With the chain in the correct position (purple
key on line) on the exhaust cam gear (marked
with an “E”), position it up against the front
of the cam while slightly rotating the cam
clockwise (from the front of the engine) with
a 15/16-inch open end wrench mated to the
slot in the cam to the gear. Hand tighten the
three 13 mm bolts and center 18 mm bolt
until the engine is timed (then torque to
65 ft-lb)."

quoted from the book

 

i need one of those...thats Badass!!!

 

it works so well i rarly find angles it wont work and usually in that case you can muscle the clamp around a little till you can get the jaws on the two tangs then your golden.

then it always helps you put them back in a orientation to which you can easily access them as well for the future if needed!

pricey i think i paid nearly 100.00 but i usually only buy stuff with lifetime warranty/replacement

 

Well I finished thanks everyone! car runs great!

 

so...did you end up torque to 85ftlbs or 155 degrees?

 

torqued to 85ftlbs since the arp studs directions didn't require a cetrain degree