Heat exchanger
Heat exchanger
I amm looking at upgrading the stock heat exchanger and have questions. First why would you keep the stock heat exchanger if upgrading to a larger fmic. i.e. cobalt addictions pics show stock one removed. Second what is the size of the stock, cobra, cobalt addiction, and cx racing heat exchanger. I have all so found a heat exchanger on frozenboost.com that measures 26x7x3.5, has anyone used it or heard of them.
Hear is the link- http://www.frozenboost.com/product_i...f26254f15c5918
Any help would be great.
Hear is the link- http://www.frozenboost.com/product_i...f26254f15c5918
Any help would be great.
i did the stock h/e delete and have seen cooler temp than ever...
the link you posted is the same one as the ca one and its very close to the cx racing one there all the same size EXCEPT the cobra its junk and should e the only one that is added to the stock the rest are more than big enough...
most people are stupid enough to belive that 2 > 1 but in this case it slows down flow and puts a load on the pump and the stock one is 3/8 of an in from the 160*+ radiator constantly heating it up.... not gm's greatest idea... imo
the link you posted is the same one as the ca one and its very close to the cx racing one there all the same size EXCEPT the cobra its junk and should e the only one that is added to the stock the rest are more than big enough...
most people are stupid enough to belive that 2 > 1 but in this case it slows down flow and puts a load on the pump and the stock one is 3/8 of an in from the 160*+ radiator constantly heating it up.... not gm's greatest idea... imo
Last edited by hungryhip-ccp; Jul 26, 2008 at 08:37 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
well...the question is kind of misleading. You can upgrade the stock one with another one or add an additional heat exchanger. The cheaper option is to add another one. I'll disagree with hungryhip-ccp about people being stupid thinking 2>1. It's about capacity, the more you have the better when it comes to reducing fluid temps. Also, the extra heat exchanger is in front of the radiator and the last place the fluid is prior to going into the pump and into the lamonivas. Seems to me that is a logical way to reduce IAT2 temps. I've logged my car with and without the extra heat exchanger and its shown to reduce IAT2 temps. Seems to me that a $75 investment on my end was pretty good. But if you feel the need to spend more on a new heat exchanger to replace the stock one, by all means do it. Follow whichever advice you'd like. After all, it is your money.
BTW...powell motorsports sells an upgrade for $1000 with the dual pass and option-b kit.
BTW...powell motorsports sells an upgrade for $1000 with the dual pass and option-b kit.
well...the question is kind of misleading. You can upgrade the stock one with another one or add an additional heat exchanger. The cheaper option is to add another one. I'll disagree with hungryhip-ccp about people being stupid thinking 2>1. It's about capacity, the more you have the better when it comes to reducing fluid temps. Also, the extra heat exchanger is in front of the radiator and the last place the fluid is prior to going into the pump and into the lamonivas. Seems to me that is a logical way to reduce IAT2 temps. I've logged my car with and without the extra heat exchanger and its shown to reduce IAT2 temps. Seems to me that a $75 investment on my end was pretty good. But if you feel the need to spend more on a new heat exchanger to replace the stock one, by all means do it. Follow whichever advice you'd like. After all, it is your money.
BTW...powell motorsports sells an upgrade for $1000 with the dual pass and option-b kit.
BTW...powell motorsports sells an upgrade for $1000 with the dual pass and option-b kit.
and i found that with a upgraded h/e as the cx i get lower temps than running two as opposed to one and have not had any problems with heat soaking at all and i live in the desert were temps are 100+ everyday and still no issues im seeing at the highest (drivethru's) im seeing 140 iat-2 with iat-1 of 110-115 when i had both i was seeing as high as 160-170 at long periods of idling after a drive or sitting in a drivethru's... then as soon as i take off down the road temps of 120-125 return, when i had both hooked up it would take along time to go back down and wouldent reach as low of temps after heat soaking... (more fluid to cool off, and sitting sandwiched inbetween a really hot radiator as well as a hot a/c condinsor)
i dont know what your temps are or your condition's but my results show that my set-up is superioir to what you are suggesting but all cars react different to different set-ups....
care to explain your set-up and theaory a little more in detail... im not trying to argue with you doc just trying to get a little more from ya...
to make it quick..more heat exchangers more coolant..yea having one would be more pressure and go thru and if u had one big enough with a dual pass it would be the best...but some people feel more coolant in the system would be better off...its a opinion/your choice..neither are wrong or right...just depends on what u think the best benefits are.....but.....this is my opinion ha
dayum...I had a lot typed too.
the theory is this, more fluid cools better....and the extra h/e was in front of everything and the coolant left the cooler area before it went into the pump. I think a better h/e would work but I didn't feel like spending a lot of money to achieve the cooling.
the theory is this, more fluid cools better....and the extra h/e was in front of everything and the coolant left the cooler area before it went into the pump. I think a better h/e would work but I didn't feel like spending a lot of money to achieve the cooling.
yeah i see the theory of more coolant eguals more cooling, but it also takes longer to cool it off after its heated imo,
as far as it taking longer to heat it up, i see your point...
during my test's i also added RP purple ice when i went with the stock h/e delete so that could have changed the outcome significantly...
as far as it taking longer to heat it up, i see your point...
during my test's i also added RP purple ice when i went with the stock h/e delete so that could have changed the outcome significantly...
I amm looking at upgrading the stock heat exchanger and have questions. First why would you keep the stock heat exchanger if upgrading to a larger fmic. i.e. cobalt addictions pics show stock one removed. Second what is the size of the stock, cobra, cobalt addiction, and cx racing heat exchanger. I have all so found a heat exchanger on frozenboost.com that measures 26x7x3.5, has anyone used it or heard of them.
Hear is the link- http://www.frozenboost.com/product_i...f26254f15c5918
Any help would be great.
Hear is the link- http://www.frozenboost.com/product_i...f26254f15c5918
Any help would be great.
brian add some meth and watch those temps plummit.... even further
even if its only 25% the blower will be ice cold to the touch
and it is distilled water right?
even if its only 25% the blower will be ice cold to the touch
and it is distilled water right?
Last edited by hungryhip-ccp; Jul 27, 2008 at 01:12 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
actually water removes heat better than methanol.The water provides the primary cooling effect due to its great density and high heat absorption properties. The methanol just serves as an "anitfreeze" to the water..and also is used as an octane booster.
this "kit" is easy and around 200 bucks. u run a couple wires and plumb the system and ur good to go
from what i understand, from AIS: the water makes it to the combustion chamber and cools combustion temps, and like you said the meth acts as a octane booster... spill some meth on your hand and blow on it... (or rubbing alcohol same thing) then put water on your hand and blow on it, and you get nothing... the meth cools the intake charge (and is almost completly evaporated by the time it gets to the cylinder's) the water cools combustion temps
i used to run 100% meth then they advised me that i would see benifits from at least a 20% water
i used to run 100% meth then they advised me that i would see benifits from at least a 20% water
Last edited by hungryhip-ccp; Jul 27, 2008 at 01:23 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
yea keeping the water to make it to the combustion chamber is to cool those temps. the methanol wont cool the chamber as good (since it is like a fuel) as water. but for cooling intake charges yes methanol is better...thats why we run a mix haha
im very glad you brough that up though remeber that hint of knock im getting? im gonna try a 50/50 mix instead of my 75/25 seens how cooler combustion temps= less knock... i hope my AFR dont change too much though. its at a 11.5-6 anyways hopefully it wont go past 11.8-9 with the 50/50
it shouldnt lean up too bad...and it may knock more...the water causes a higher compression ratio in the chamber..u want that octane in there...try 100% meth and see if it goes away
ais makes a good fender mount kit
ais makes a good fender mount kit
Last edited by Raven SS; Jul 27, 2008 at 01:36 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
i wouldent buy anything else...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Alumi...spagenameZWDVW
see here for install pics...
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lsj-performance-tech-47/cx-racing-small-one-clean-install-w-pics-120031/
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lsj-performance-tech-47/cx-h-e-cx-heat-exchanger-installed-%2Apics-122662/
ohh **** all that work for nothing i though you meant a h/e... reading > me...
Last edited by hungryhip-ccp; Jul 27, 2008 at 01:39 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
i wouldent buy anything else...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Alumi...spagenameZWDVW
see here for install pics...
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=120031
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=122662
ohh **** all that work for nothing i though you meant a h/e... reading > me...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Alumi...spagenameZWDVW
see here for install pics...
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=120031
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=122662
ohh **** all that work for nothing i though you meant a h/e... reading > me...
Do you have any IAT temp readings with the CX racing HE you have there? I am sure it is still functional and what not. I would just rather have the piece of mind knowing the coolant had maximum exposure through the HE before being sucked back into the Intake manifold.
it is dual pass bro the welds are on the inside... unlike the CA one the welds are on the outside...
what would you like to know about iat's.... thats all weve been talking about in this thread see one page back thats all weve been talking about reading > you... you even get to see the debate between me and doc in which some excellent knowledge and results were shared... read from post 2 and on
then i'll answer any q's u have
and some great knowledge was shared between me and raven.... read brotha read
what would you like to know about iat's.... thats all weve been talking about in this thread see one page back thats all weve been talking about reading > you... you even get to see the debate between me and doc in which some excellent knowledge and results were shared... read from post 2 and on
then i'll answer any q's u have
and some great knowledge was shared between me and raven.... read brotha read
Last edited by hungryhip-ccp; Jul 27, 2008 at 01:56 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

Link to auction
Directly from CXracing themselves. It is NOT a dual pass...


