MY HOW TO GUIDE in HOW TO GUIDE SECTION(LINK)

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-guide-43/how-install-mount-big-cx-heat-exchanger-124669/


Updated pictures on PAGE 3. A full how to guide with pictures to help better explain myself.





It cost me under $200 bucks.
*I only used 2 screws, 2 lock washers, 2 nuts to mount the top part of the bracket (drilled 2 holes to make them fit).
*The bottom side I wire tied together to the 2- 6 inch L brackets I bought from Home Depot which had pre drilled holes.
*12 feet of 3/4 heater hose.
*3-Hose Clamps
*6-Metal wire ties or regular ones
*1 Gallon of Dex Cool! Almost used the whole thing.

I used the stock intercooler/heat exchanger + the CX H/E. So I am running both the stock one plus the CX H/E (Dual Heat Exchangers). Very easy install and for sure bigger than the one fast98 or his website sells(WWW. ottperformance .COM). Fits great when you mount it far back the way I did. I would recommend this to anyone as I would help you over the phone on how to mount it or exactly what I did. Also to make sure it doesn't move anywhere. I have had it on the car mounted for over 3 months and it is still perfectly secure! (ROCK SOLID)

I was about to buy cobalt addiction's (WWW. cobalt-addiction .COM) or fast98's (WWW. ottperformance .COM) his websites heat exchanger, but both are really a decent amount smaller and I really like the way this one turned out for such a difference in price. (saved$ myself a lot of $$money$$)

If you have any questions please feel free to PM as I will do my best to try to help you with any questions you may have.

-Chris

1. Ran the one side (Looking at the car the RIGHT SIDE of the stock h/e) coming out of the stock heat exchanger to the cx h/e. That went up under the front right headlight then down into the front of the right side of the cx h/e.
2. The other side (left side of the cx h/e) went left side and wrap to the right side then made a little circle so it would go back into the pump! (exactly where you took the line that was going out of the stock heat exchanger to the pump.

I bought 12 feet just in case, you only use like 8. Can never be to safe, also I just didn't want to kink any lines.

Hope this helps...

 

very nice.. ill be looking to do this in the future also.

 

sweet mine is in the mail as we speak. ill be going by your materials list to c what i need to install

 

awesome dude! that's a good diagram too.

 

Nice write up. That's alot of parentheses

 

sweet man, that would be great!!!

 

nice! I love my larger cxr h/e too!

 

i know that bigger is generally better, but even the "smaller" cxracing heat exchanger is overkill. Since you have the bigger one you could just take out the stock one. I bought the smaller cxracing h/e and am taking out the stock one all together.

 

Looks good Chris.

 

Like it!!! Will be saving this thread for when I do pick up the same H/E and do the install. Oh on a side not my Balt is also black and I was wanting to see a front view of the painted headlights and bow tie. Looks great. Ill be doing that too!!!

 

i vote for better pictures of the install

 

looks very clean... do you notice a considerable difference in iat2s?... u dont have the dual pass, right?

 

Subscribed for future modding and great info...

 

I would start a new thread, but when I try to do that on this sight, it states that I dont have privledges to do so??????????????



ANyways I just installed my Cobra heat Exchanger, and am wondering what I would need to do the option B. I dont have the dual pass, but I cant imagine it would be that hard to mount a remote tank like this http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...B-P1838C0.aspx


I am sure you can pick something up at the junkyard that would work fine for 5 dollars, and some hoses, clamps, tfittings etc.........hell it should cost under $15 dollars, I am just not sure how you would route the lines. Anyone know?

 

looks good bro we did ours at the same time! lol it definietly runs stronger no doubt. Biggest difference i noticed for all you that havent done it yet is the low end torque. Basically it just picks up power a lot faster to me. But i have no way of knowing numbers wise the difference in the intake temps before and after. But hope this helps any of yall. Any ?'s pm me.

 

Hm, looks nice

 

lovin these wheels

 

Thanks!

 

nice writeup

 

I know its a little taller, but it still fills out the front just as much as my C/A one does. Looks nice on there bro.

 

so you used the drain/bleeder as a drain? and 8ft of hose? wow wouldent it of been much simpler to do it this way...






and use it as a bleeder instead and then route your hoses the other way? i only used 4ft and i got a bleeder out of the deal


and it still looks the same... and actually it is sold as a direct replacement if you check out my thread see post 50 https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lsj-performance-tech-47/cx-racing-small-one-clean-install-w-pics-120031/ you'll see im actually seeing better results using JUST the cx racing h/e... the stock one as you all know is constantly getting heated by the rad, and it also slows down the flow considerably when the pump has to push through 2 h/e, also possibly leading to pump failure, and (im on a roll here) from looking at your routing diagram i see your still using the option a??? option b is a must to get ALL the air out of the system... i tried option a, it wasent cutting it... just somethin to think about... and if your wondering i dont see anything like heat soaking fast or nothing, the cx, racing alone holds double the amount of fluid the stoch h/e holds, plus it starts off cooler than if the stock one is still hooked up soaking up heat from the radiator, i mean aluminum is wanna the fastest conducting metals weather its heating or cooling and its what a 1/4 to 1/2 in away from rad! which is roughly 160*








but to each his own...

x2...

[QUOTE=runriot;2622913]I would start a new thread, but when I try to do that on this sight, it states that I dont have privledges to do so??????????????



ANyways I just installed my Cobra heat Exchanger, and am wondering what I would need to do the option B. I dont have the dual pass, but I cant imagine it would be that hard to mount a remote tank like this http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...B-P1838C0.aspx


I am sure you can pick something up at the junkyard that would work fine for 5 dollars, and some hoses, clamps, tfittings etc.........hell it should cost under $15 dollars, I am just not sure how you would route the lines. Anyone know?[/QUOTE]

go back on crate engine depot and look at the dual pass end plate and look by the pricing and click on istall instructios it has em in pdf on option a & b...

is your butt dyno telling you that?

hey psssst, cuz if so its lying to you

your not even moitoring temps of iat-1 or iat-2 but you bought this before a scanforce...

(bangs head on desk repeatedly) some people... [IMG][/IMG]

 

thanks

 

click

 

Looks good man. Mines been sitting in the box for about 3 months now. Now a I have a reason to install good write up man.

 

Bodnar, show how you mounted it...i have the bigger one and im lowered...i dont want that to become a bad situation. Did you have to cut the crash bar to get it to fit?? I know a lot of other guys did...

Also, i think everyone is agreeing that it would be better just to run the new H/E and the opt b due to the stock h/e getting heat soaked by way of the radiator...