common sense. more dex cool. also the stock h/e you decided to take out when the fans turn on it cools the stock h/e and you decided to take that out. to me i don't get why you would ever take it out. i am sure people will argue that but i am fairly smart and thought about it for a while and realized taking it out would be stupid. esp. when you are stopped on a hot day it is bad since you took it out.

whatever though. each to his own. you can do what you please. i just provided you with a how to guide and the only reason why i did it is because you and now you didn't follow/listen to me lol

 

im following you man calm down lol...i was just sparking a conversation about it....your guide is very helpful...Thank you......The guy at advanced autoparts gave me a weird look when i asked for 10 feet of hose lol

 

Nice write up and looks great! I just ordered mine last night, and haven't really looked at my car and where everything is located yet. Is the install diagram shown above with an option b or just as it came from the factory? This is my first cooling mod, so will this diagram work for me? I don't know much about the heat exchangers thats why I'm doing my research now before I install this weekend lol. Thanks, appreciate it!

 

the diagram is w/o option b kit or dual pass. that is separate.

 

let me lead you to another thread so i dont have to type so much (ps i wouldent of done it without good reasoning and great results!)


read the whole thread theres some great knowledge shared between me and doc and me and ravenss....


https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lsj-performance-tech-47/opt-b-124357/

 

Ya but more coolant seems that it would obviously yield better cooling....

 

correct. please don't over think things. when you over think things or over kill it usually ends up being pointless or it gets worse or not such a great idea. you can read into things or go crazy over something but just keep it simple to what makes sense and what the majority of the people would say. most people go with what there gut feeling is. there is always 1 or 2 people in the crowd who think differently. how well they write or there fancy words

 

lol at you ^^^^^^^^ your a funny guy...

i know what works...


you guys are missing the whole picture... the units you are buying are sold as replacement units not add ons... they will support from 600hp to 1000hp which none of us are anywhere near!

the only add on out there is the cobra h/e which is junk

more is not always better... if that was the case then why are my iat-2's so ******* low!

i'll tell you why........... i am completely bypassing the stock one eleminating the heat soaking caused by being sandwhiched in between a hot ass radiator and a hot condensor!

most people get cruising iat-2's that are 10-20* higher than ait-1.... i am seeing as low as 5* more than iat-1 usually 8* and my temps never break 140 the highest ive seen on back to back freeway pulls from 40-120 is iat-2 128* with a iat-1 at 90*


but hey you keep going with your "keep it simple" idea... i mean like your nos set-up and if i remember correctly your door bell button for a nos switch lol................ your so blind to the fact that someone can and will have better idea's then you.... keep going with that theory, ill put you on my full of **** list so i remember to block out anything you say...lol


feel free to add some theory or test results to your bs... (besides more is better).........lol







ccp

 

sounds good. i am at 300whp +

 

So Hungry your saying that the stock h/e does not cool it down at all but rather heat soaks it and makes it worse?

 

im wasting my breath now..... reading > you...


i gave you a link... of two options now its up to you to choose...

ohh **** my bad i was giving you the wrong link lol my bad dude hold on a min im sorry


ccp

here is the correct link.....

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lsj-performance-tech-47/heat-exchanger-124458/


once again sorry for the reading > you .............

here is the coorect link.....

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=124458


once again sorry

posting correct link > me

 

Nice job. I just bought the smaller CX H/E

 

you know where the stock radiator is. then you should know why gm put it there. when you are stopped the fans face towards the h/e first then hit the radiator. using the stock h/e makes sense and when you are stopped the fans cool the stock h/e then the coolant goes back out to the cx h/e.

if u take out the stock h/e and only have the cx h/e. it probably heats up more on a hot day. less coolant and outfront no fan is hitting it. just my 2cents. each to his own. everyone has there own ideas. i had my way of hitting 300whp + with less than a grand spent in my cobalt and still under warranty cause my dealership said it's chill. i was going to get gm stage 3 kit they were going to cover it but i just went 50wet shot. what can i say.

i don't even want to know how many times i've sprayed w/o the cx h/e and now with it. at least 60 + runs from 40-130 ish. many times. everyone says i am going blow up and it still hasn't and i don't plan on it.

 

ok go out to your car and start and turn on a/c wait for fans to come on and feel in front of the cx h/e were do you think the air is coming from? it has to go through the whole in the bumper in order to get to the radiator.....


heres the main issue its not so much the stock one gets heated by the rad and condensor (which it does) it that the flow of the liquid is greatly reduced with both hooked up.... less flow, less cooling do you understand that theory...

i noticed this beacause when i hooked up the cx in line with the stock i saw no drop in temps i actually saw a slight rise in temps then i started doing research and talking to my buddys at R&E racing and jimbo ss is actually the one who pointed out that its a replacement not a add on (he had 2 pump failures, with both hooked up) still not knowing what the cause was i belive..

so i figured what the hell im bored one day so i simply move one hose around and bam cooler temps than i have ever seen.... so wether you are or not... i am more than happy with my set-up

it was a simple experiment that yeilded me great results... thtas all im saying..

 

reason why he had a falure would be because maybe you didn't run the lines long enough and kinked one of them. i use both and saw a increase in lower temps when my friend hooked it up i forget what it was while running down the highway and while being stopped. i understand your theory your trying to prove but it makes no sense. just a theory. i have more coolant and like you said or anyone can go outside and realize you turn ur a/c on the fans go to the STOCK h/e then to the radiator. so the after market h/e doesn't even get hit or affected by the fans. the stock h/e while the fans are on cools down. now more coolant means that the temperature isn't going to get as high because there is more coolant and it takes longer to heat up. if you do what i did and don't kink any lines it is better.

more coolant = more coolant you must heat up
keeping the stock h/e = the fans cool that down and the coolant in it then goes to the cx h/e and while your driving down the highway cools down the cx h/e. goes back around to the pump then goes out and repeats the process. i fully understand your theory but ti is a theory and that is why you are not sure why the other guys was a fail or something happened wrong. i personally have provided enough to prove what i am saying is right and correct.

if you want to think your way is right that is absolutely fine.

 

Chris, the Heat exchanger is sandwhich'd in the middle of the AC Condensor(front) and the rad(closet to engine)

Not sure if you were getting them mixed up, just throwing it out there.

 

my bad yeah i know. still i don't think people get it that it is there for a reason. the fans cool it. and more coolant the longer it takes to get hotter. common sense.

 

But also the longer it takes to get cooler.

When I do mine I'm removing the stock one. The CX is massive and holds a ton of coolant anyway. And then i'll be loosing the extra weight too which always helps.

 

Seriously though Bodnar...lets think about this. the H/E is right up against the radiator. what is the operating temp of the engine?? I know my coolant temp stays at 180ish, and at idle I've seen it get as high as 223*. Now, if your aftermarket is up against the A/C condenser, then the fans should be pulling air thru the aftermarket h/e also, which, in-turn is sending the heat from the front exchanger back to the stock which is already hot, hence keeping the stock h/e hotter and making it harder to cool the coolant in the new H/E.

I wont bash you about the crash bar. its made that way for a reason, and you modifying it probably just weakened its integrity should you get in a collision. I had a feeling that was how you got that big ass H/E in there because ive test fitted mine numerous times, and unless you cut it or remove the stock, theres no way it would fit without hacking something.

Good info, thanks for the help and pointers, but I think i know which route im gonna go.


And BTW, if you wanted to add more coolant to the system...get an Option B tank...

 

whatever you guys say. that does make a point but summer is half over and come time the winter the 2 will be better. it is 3/4 of the year cold or cool and 1/4 of the year hot for me in jersey. as for the crash bar if u want me to measure it i can fit maybe at best 2 fingers in that gap. that's really really small tiny little cutout. and maybe 1 finger in depth. personally don't think it would do much but i made this write up for someone who asked me and wanted to follow it. i know there are certain people who will not like it and its not for everyone. i personally think the dual h/e's i've talked to certain people on the phone and they said it will benefit. i know in the winter it will cause i don't have option b or dual pass and don't plan on getting ether.

lol 10pounds max? hot damn dan your not that fat. lol

 

I wasnt knockin you man, you did it your way and it worked for you. Also, your right, in your situation upstate it would probably benefit you more in the cooler months. Cars dont sit in traffic much down here, and its always hot, so the faster I can get the coolant cool the better; and I believe that would be with the larger CX only up front with an Option B tank. Also, my GM Tech buddy that's gonna help me put mine in refuses to cut the crash bar, and I dont blame him. I think hungryhip taking his stock out was the more appropriate way to go about it, and its probably his advice I'll follow.

Good luck with that 300whp beast...

 

So much pointless fighting going on in here...

 

Very Nice Dude
This Will Help Everyone Out..including Me
So Any Difference In Hp Or Anything Of That Sort??

 

no fighting joe...just disagreements...

everyone's entitled to their opinion...

Its more of an efficiency thing...keeping the engine/intake air cool helps you retain the power the car has. Heatsoak robs power from the car; this helps keep the car at optimum efficiency to make the power its actually capable of.

 

man i stick up for my point. for me it works and what i did is best for me. lol, hi joe. annoyed of me yet?

like ecotecon18s said, it really doesn't give you power or anything i noticed. with out it or with it. you can't notice a difference. i think it is one of those mod's to just help better your engine and less heat soak. in the winter i don't know if it will help much i would think it would help but it's not like a turbo vehicle where you put that on and gain 40 horsepower unfortunately.