I put a OTTP heat exchanger on my car this past week and was wondering what type of coolant/ water and what temps you guys were getting?

 

90% water 10% coolant during the warmer months, 50/50 during the winter

 

dex cool

iats 2 112 120 idk something good

i have the same Heat exchanger, i hate where the drain is on it cuz im lowered, we trimmed the release thing cuz it hanged lower than the splash guard

 

You need an interceptor to figure out the iats 2 right? Btw I just took the drain right off. Its a pain in the butt to drain it cuz the bolt that I put in, but it helps with scrapping especially when you are lowered.

 

had the ottp h/e too and I ende up scrape'n mine off on a drive way one day with liquids going eveywhere so I just stuck a bolt in it and it works just as well

but you should for the summer run 90+% water and the rest water-wetter, the water-wetter keeps it a lot cooler...bout 20 degrees

 

I run distilled water with RedLine's Water Wetter (for lubrication purposes) at about 16:1.

 

if you are to use water wetter with water it tells you to leave in about 15% coolant and 1 oz of water wetter per quart of water. thats exactly what i do and it works very well. i`ll log my iat`s later for you next week.

 

thats a good idea about the drain, and yea an interceptor gauge will monitor your iat2, if u are being tuned the tuner can see your temps of the iat2 as well

 

You should know to not waste WW in your secondary coolant. I use it solely for lubrication of the pump.

Your engine is toast by the time WW would have any effect on the coolant in the blower system as water must be boiling for it to work.

 

water wetter is not a waste in the laminova system. you prove to me that its a waste and i will take back my statement. i dont even see how it could be a waste theoreticaly.

 

Because its a surface tension modifier, a surfacant.

It works by bringing the surface tension of water to a point where bubbles are harder to form, speeding up coolant flow in hot spots, reducing temperature.

Its a waste in a system that will never see boiling temps. I used it to lubricate the pump because I had some handy.

If water is ever boiling in your IM, you have issues.

 

so lets say it doesnt cool it down. it is still cheaper to buy it rather than coolant for lubrication. so all in all its a win situation.

 

True. It is cheaper than buying a big jug of DC.

I'd still do DC if you had some and were choosing between that and purchasing WW for that sole purpose.

 

My car usually ran around 180. The day after I put the h/e on my coolant temp went to 217which has never happened b4! I was wondering if the mixture isn't right or the pump took as crap, or I hooked it up the wrong way? I was wondering what you guys thought or if any one had the schematics for the install?

 

engine coolant (reading you saw) and i/c system are two seperate systems

 

Air in the system?

Oh yeah. What he said.

OP, where you reading the coolant temp on the DIC? If so, that has nothing to do with your H/E coolant temp.

 

<newbies friend that knows little about the car.
How much should the i/c system hold?(total including ottp, assuming we empty and refill).
Understood that what he's seeing is for engine coolant but from the sounds of it he's seeing a pretty significant temp jump there vs immediately prior install.

I.e. 20 minute cruise before dic maxed 180 and now its as high as 217. He barely broke 210 iirc hotlapping at the track before. And aside from logging, how can he monitor i/c temp? Thanks

 

What custom asked is exactly what I am trying to find out and also if there is air in the system would I just be able to drain the system and start over? Also if the dic readings are high that doesn't mean that the iat2 is high right? Thanks

 

If you're looking to purge the air from your IC system, there is a bolt on top of the factory HE. Lift the plastic grill to see it. Its a 7/16" or 11MM.