heat-exchanger & fans switch MOD...
heat-exchanger & fans switch MOD...
today i went to a friends house to install a fan switch to turn on my fans manual. so that the car can be cool at idle, WOT, and when turned off. i read that you can install a manual switch for the exchanger too.
well i started by find the relays, then found which ones were power and ground. after i install the switch i hooked all the wiring up, which was not to bad. the only thing is that when the fans come on automatically(when switch is in off position) it kicks on the heat-exchanger as well.
my question is... When does the heat-exchanger pump normally come on?
thanks, John
p.s. pics soon to come!
well i started by find the relays, then found which ones were power and ground. after i install the switch i hooked all the wiring up, which was not to bad. the only thing is that when the fans come on automatically(when switch is in off position) it kicks on the heat-exchanger as well.
my question is... When does the heat-exchanger pump normally come on?
thanks, John
p.s. pics soon to come!
Senior Member
Joined: 03-26-06
Posts: 2,271
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From: Michigan
Free bump, I wanna hear the answer too.
I plan on doing this too until I can get HPT.
I've seen a few how-to's but most of them were just for doing direct jumpers, i.e. track day only. But I'm pretty sure PatathSS set his up this way with switches for both under the hood.
I plan on doing this too until I can get HPT.
I've seen a few how-to's but most of them were just for doing direct jumpers, i.e. track day only. But I'm pretty sure PatathSS set his up this way with switches for both under the hood.
https://www.cobaltss.net/gallery/fil...gswitch004.jpg
^this is where i put the switch
https://www.cobaltss.net/gallery/fil...gswitch002.jpg
^this is one of the relays that i connected the switch too
https://www.cobaltss.net/gallery/fil...gswitch001.jpg
^this is the other relay
questions just post 'em....
^this is where i put the switch
https://www.cobaltss.net/gallery/fil...gswitch002.jpg
^this is one of the relays that i connected the switch too
https://www.cobaltss.net/gallery/fil...gswitch001.jpg
^this is the other relay
questions just post 'em....
Senior Member
Joined: 08-08-06
Posts: 1,918
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From: Duncannon, PA
So does that just make the fans stay on or the pump also? I might just rig up something quick to do this, I am heading to the track next weekend and will probably be my only time going. Thanks, this helps.
Also where did you get direct power from? The power comes from the switch right? It is hot all the time as long as the switch is on and that is how both relays get power?
Also where did you get direct power from? The power comes from the switch right? It is hot all the time as long as the switch is on and that is how both relays get power?
Last edited by BriantheLion26; Jul 26, 2007 at 06:30 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Senior Member
Joined: 06-28-06
Posts: 12,577
Likes: 2
From: Canada
I have removable wire/switches for my HE pump and fans that i set up on track days.
best $10 i ever spent.
IAT2s after a run peak at 145, then begin dropping soon after i park. within 30 minutes its below 100*.
Without this, after parking IAT2s would shoot to 160-170.
id be lucky to have them below 120 before the next run.
best $10 i ever spent.
IAT2s after a run peak at 145, then begin dropping soon after i park. within 30 minutes its below 100*.
Without this, after parking IAT2s would shoot to 160-170.
id be lucky to have them below 120 before the next run.
Senior Member
Joined: 08-08-06
Posts: 1,918
Likes: 0
From: Duncannon, PA
I have removable wire/switches for my HE pump and fans that i set up on track days.
best $10 i ever spent.
IAT2s after a run peak at 145, then begin dropping soon after i park. within 30 minutes its below 100*.
Without this, after parking IAT2s would shoot to 160-170.
id be lucky to have them below 120 before the next run.
best $10 i ever spent.
IAT2s after a run peak at 145, then begin dropping soon after i park. within 30 minutes its below 100*.
Without this, after parking IAT2s would shoot to 160-170.
id be lucky to have them below 120 before the next run.
Senior Member
Joined: 06-28-06
Posts: 12,577
Likes: 2
From: Canada
Is your setup pretty much like his? I would like something like you have to set up for next weekend when I go. I don't care what it looks like long as it works. How long can you run it before your battery goes dead. Do you leave it run and leave the hood open I am assuming?
but i basically turn it on at 5:30 when i arrive, and with the car running off and on during the night it never gets low enough to cause any problems, running all the way till almost midnight.
at times ive let the car sit for over an hour with it running and it never gets to low.
(ps, i carry a booster pack with me just in case)
ok basically what i did was shove 18 gauge wire into the neg(-) of the two relays in the pics, then sent that wire out to the switch in my center console.
then i went back through the fire wall and hooked another wire to the positive post(in the fuse box) then hooked the wires into the back of the switch. then grounded the the switch.
now when you flip the switch(car is off) the heat-exchanger pump and the right fan come on cooling down the heat-exchanger fluid.
one more think to remember is when you turn the car on(started) the heat-exhanger pump comes on, turning the fan on too but the other fan will still kick on when temp go above 180 degrees.
so instead of waiting for the fans to kick on, one is already on cooling as you drive!
so cooling when car is off when switch is on(car off waiting to dyno or race) and cooler driving temps.
then i went back through the fire wall and hooked another wire to the positive post(in the fuse box) then hooked the wires into the back of the switch. then grounded the the switch.
now when you flip the switch(car is off) the heat-exchanger pump and the right fan come on cooling down the heat-exchanger fluid.
one more think to remember is when you turn the car on(started) the heat-exhanger pump comes on, turning the fan on too but the other fan will still kick on when temp go above 180 degrees.
so instead of waiting for the fans to kick on, one is already on cooling as you drive!
so cooling when car is off when switch is on(car off waiting to dyno or race) and cooler driving temps.
Senior Member
Joined: 06-28-06
Posts: 12,577
Likes: 2
From: Canada
I built 2 wire setups. one for the fans. one for the pump
I pull the relays that control the fans, and IC pump, stick them in the glovebox till track day is over.
I bought some male plugins from GM that match the exact shape/size of the prongs on a relay, to avoid causing any damage to my fuse block.
From there i have a length of wire to an in-line fuse.
From there to a basic in-line on/off switch.
some more wire back down to another male connector.
I made it so that its long enough to reach from the fuse block, up to sit near my wipers, so that they can be switched on/off without the hood up.
the male connectors are called "metripak 280 male connectors"
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/atta...0&d=1150667138
this is a pic of some jumpered relays.
the two closest to the left side (front of car) are the ones you set up switched.
Notice it goes in the bottom left, and top right holes.
This only runs fans at 50% btw....as i dont want to chew my battery off to quick.
Note: this does set of a CEL, so i wouldnt do this unless you have a way to clear it.
there is a way to do it without a cel, also a way to run the fans faster....but i personally didnt get that far into it.
and im happy with mine, as i can just clear the cel with my interceptor, put the relays back in and away i go.
Please give props to WopOnTour for this information, as he is the guy i learnt all this from.
maybe i should go whip up my next how-to video? heh
I pull the relays that control the fans, and IC pump, stick them in the glovebox till track day is over.
I bought some male plugins from GM that match the exact shape/size of the prongs on a relay, to avoid causing any damage to my fuse block.
From there i have a length of wire to an in-line fuse.
From there to a basic in-line on/off switch.
some more wire back down to another male connector.
I made it so that its long enough to reach from the fuse block, up to sit near my wipers, so that they can be switched on/off without the hood up.
the male connectors are called "metripak 280 male connectors"
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/atta...0&d=1150667138
this is a pic of some jumpered relays.
the two closest to the left side (front of car) are the ones you set up switched.
Notice it goes in the bottom left, and top right holes.
This only runs fans at 50% btw....as i dont want to chew my battery off to quick.
Note: this does set of a CEL, so i wouldnt do this unless you have a way to clear it.
there is a way to do it without a cel, also a way to run the fans faster....but i personally didnt get that far into it.
and im happy with mine, as i can just clear the cel with my interceptor, put the relays back in and away i go.
Please give props to WopOnTour for this information, as he is the guy i learnt all this from.
maybe i should go whip up my next how-to video? heh
you have to test the relays for the negative, if you hook it up wrong way and do positive, youll get a CEL!
if i mess with it more ill do a how to with pics....
Senior Member
Joined: 02-24-07
Posts: 1,481
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From: Wheaton, Illinois
so my drawing was basically pretty accurate??t
i know about switches, just where it leads is what i dont know.
how do you "test" for a negative?
I mean i can just look at the 2 pics you posted and see where the negatives connect right?
all cobalts are the same.. heh
i know about switches, just where it leads is what i dont know.
how do you "test" for a negative?
I mean i can just look at the 2 pics you posted and see where the negatives connect right?
all cobalts are the same.. heh
top right on the left relay(h/e pump relay) and bottom left on the right relay(fan relay)
and then you can also see where i hooked in for power on the tall post on the bottom right where the red positive usually sits. (little black wire) look close!
if you do that then i think your ok. good luck it took me about 2 hrs to test and run the wires and figure out what i wanted to do.
and then you can also see where i hooked in for power on the tall post on the bottom right where the red positive usually sits. (little black wire) look close!
if you do that then i think your ok. good luck it took me about 2 hrs to test and run the wires and figure out what i wanted to do.
Last edited by Johnny B; Jul 26, 2007 at 10:14 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Senior Member
Joined: 03-26-06
Posts: 2,271
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
I have removable wire/switches for my HE pump and fans that i set up on track days.
best $10 i ever spent.
IAT2s after a run peak at 145, then begin dropping soon after i park. within 30 minutes its below 100*.
Without this, after parking IAT2s would shoot to 160-170.
id be lucky to have them below 120 before the next run.
best $10 i ever spent.
IAT2s after a run peak at 145, then begin dropping soon after i park. within 30 minutes its below 100*.
Without this, after parking IAT2s would shoot to 160-170.
id be lucky to have them below 120 before the next run.
I remember those days, lol. I can't wait to see how chilly I can get my IAT's down to with this mod runnin and ice bags in between runs
Should be damn close to ambient when I stage
Senior Member
Joined: 11-11-05
Posts: 9,438
Likes: 0
From: Oceanside, Ca
a little searching goes a long way 
Here is the thread it came from How do I power the intercooler pump with the engine off ????
check it out, there are pics attached that help.
Well last summer I did a complete schematic and instructions for a rewire in order to be able to control the fans and CAC pump with a dash mounted switch.(for both the Redline and the SS/SC) It's posted over in the Redline forums (the upload cap over here prohibits PDF files larger than 19k for what ever reason)
BUT just jumpering the 4 relays (30 to 87) Low, High, Cool/SerPa and Intercooler relays is a LOT easier and now with HPT you can just remap the codes so they dont set.(The Cool/SerPa relay is required so the fans wont run in series at 1/2 speed. If your booster pack is low you can pull that one and cut the current in 1/2.
Make sure you only use FUSED jumpers so that if you make an accidental mistake it wont burn out the internal bussing INSIDE the Fuse block. (I use 20awg fusible link wire)
I also use a knife switch on the battery ground so I can use a booster pack in the trunk to run the fans on full and and CAC pump between rounds and not kill the vehicle battery. Works good you can just close the trunk , lock your doors and go have a hot dog while you fans and pump run full-bore to cool your temps. Then when you get deep into the stage lanes CLOSE the knife switch REMOVE the booster pack, and once you start-up your pump and fans will come on immediately anyways if you have HP Tuners. Pulling the lamps fuses is optional, but if your using HPT a lot (and have the key ON) the lights are a major draw. (Of course not such a good idea at night)
Works awesome - I've got 5 or 6 cars rigged up this way
WopOnTour
BUT just jumpering the 4 relays (30 to 87) Low, High, Cool/SerPa and Intercooler relays is a LOT easier and now with HPT you can just remap the codes so they dont set.(The Cool/SerPa relay is required so the fans wont run in series at 1/2 speed. If your booster pack is low you can pull that one and cut the current in 1/2.
Make sure you only use FUSED jumpers so that if you make an accidental mistake it wont burn out the internal bussing INSIDE the Fuse block. (I use 20awg fusible link wire)
I also use a knife switch on the battery ground so I can use a booster pack in the trunk to run the fans on full and and CAC pump between rounds and not kill the vehicle battery. Works good you can just close the trunk , lock your doors and go have a hot dog while you fans and pump run full-bore to cool your temps. Then when you get deep into the stage lanes CLOSE the knife switch REMOVE the booster pack, and once you start-up your pump and fans will come on immediately anyways if you have HP Tuners. Pulling the lamps fuses is optional, but if your using HPT a lot (and have the key ON) the lights are a major draw. (Of course not such a good idea at night)
Works awesome - I've got 5 or 6 cars rigged up this way
WopOnTour
Just buy 4 "inline" 10A fuse holders or 1ft of 20awg fusible link wire from ANY automotive parts supply and solder the correct terminals on each end of the wire
I strongly recommend you use ONLY the correct Metripack 280 series male terminals when connecting these jumpers (the GM PN# is in the pic above), otherwise you risk permanent damage to the fuseblock.
Here's pics of a fully "jumped" fuseblock (using 20awg fusible link) and one of the "knife" switch or battery cut-off switch (with booster pack) installed at the battery as previously discussed.
Whenever you return to the pits...
1. Connect booster pack as shown
2. Open knife switch
When you're heading for your run
1. Close the knife switch
2. Remove booster pack
*If you want to temporarily disable the fans/pump (to work on the car for instance) you can pull the jumpers entirely or even just the "87" end of the wire. A switch is really unneccessary IMO as once your time at the track is done- just pull the jumpers and reinstall the relays
HTH
WopOnTour
I strongly recommend you use ONLY the correct Metripack 280 series male terminals when connecting these jumpers (the GM PN# is in the pic above), otherwise you risk permanent damage to the fuseblock.
Here's pics of a fully "jumped" fuseblock (using 20awg fusible link) and one of the "knife" switch or battery cut-off switch (with booster pack) installed at the battery as previously discussed.
Whenever you return to the pits...
1. Connect booster pack as shown
2. Open knife switch
When you're heading for your run
1. Close the knife switch
2. Remove booster pack
*If you want to temporarily disable the fans/pump (to work on the car for instance) you can pull the jumpers entirely or even just the "87" end of the wire. A switch is really unneccessary IMO as once your time at the track is done- just pull the jumpers and reinstall the relays
HTH
WopOnTour
The Redline details are all posted over in the Redline Forums.
http://www.r edlineforums.com/forums/tuning-electronics/4649-how-wire-fan-switch.html
(Remove space in link)
(server wont let me upload anymore here due to reaching my upload limit)
The knife switch is the green colored knob you see in the pics at the negative battery terminal.
Wop
http://www.r edlineforums.com/forums/tuning-electronics/4649-how-wire-fan-switch.html
(Remove space in link)
(server wont let me upload anymore here due to reaching my upload limit)
The knife switch is the green colored knob you see in the pics at the negative battery terminal.
Wop
No if you jumper the relays as outlined and pictured in the posts above the fans and CAC pump will run 100% of the time (even with the key OFF) You just leave the relays OUT. (It was meant as a temporary mod for out at the track.) The instructions for wiring the fans/pump relays up to a switch (that wont set DTCs) is posted over in the Redline forums.
I cant upload anything over here anymore due to upload limits
Wop
I cant upload anything over here anymore due to upload limits
Wop
I've constructed a few so far
It included three 30A sealed GM relays and a 3-position toggle switch switch that ran both fans either at 100% or 50% (series wired) as well as the CAC pump (and an OFF position of course- otherwise at 100% it will kill the battery in just 30 minutes)
I'd consider making more if there was enough interest, est cost $100-$150??
We put the switch inside the small "cubby" compartment to the left of the steering wheel.
I also put a high current "knife" switch in the trunk so the fans can be run in the pits with a booster pack keeping the car's battery fully charged. Works good
I've also created a harness to rewire the LSJ fuel pump with 10gauge wire from the generator connector right back to the fuel pump (including the pump ground) with the option to install a Boost A Pump. It only uses a single sealed 30A GM relay but would cost maybe just a bit less due to the cost of the 10ga wire and conduit to run it all inside safely to the rear of the car underneath.
Like I said if there was enough interest, say like at least 10-15 people I would consider spending a couple days assembling them with complete installation instructions.
Wop
It included three 30A sealed GM relays and a 3-position toggle switch switch that ran both fans either at 100% or 50% (series wired) as well as the CAC pump (and an OFF position of course- otherwise at 100% it will kill the battery in just 30 minutes)
I'd consider making more if there was enough interest, est cost $100-$150??
We put the switch inside the small "cubby" compartment to the left of the steering wheel.
I also put a high current "knife" switch in the trunk so the fans can be run in the pits with a booster pack keeping the car's battery fully charged. Works good
I've also created a harness to rewire the LSJ fuel pump with 10gauge wire from the generator connector right back to the fuel pump (including the pump ground) with the option to install a Boost A Pump. It only uses a single sealed 30A GM relay but would cost maybe just a bit less due to the cost of the 10ga wire and conduit to run it all inside safely to the rear of the car underneath.
Like I said if there was enough interest, say like at least 10-15 people I would consider spending a couple days assembling them with complete installation instructions.
Wop
Here is the thread it came from How do I power the intercooler pump with the engine off ????
check it out, there are pics attached that help.