this is why I was asking ...what color are you injectors
green or blue ?

 

okay the screwing around has gone far enough. everyone has made their point and noone wins a arguement online. Everyones dick is twenty feet long so it can stop now. I am sure the moderators would quickly agree with that. But as far as the hesitation what pulley did you swap from? if from a stock then it is not a maf calibration issue. if it was a smaller pulley you switched from originally then you could have had a poor scaled maf in the first place. Check for boost leaks and vacuum leaks after the maf sensor also. If the problem has worstened with the pulley swap then your probably looking at airflow issues. But in the end you need a hpt scan for me to really help you out. Clean the tb, check for vacuum leaks, check plug gap, and make sure your clutch is not slipping. outside of that you will need some type of scan tool. Let me know what you find out.

 

My car still has the factory GREEN injectors in it. Swapped pulley from stock. Cleaned throttle body last night, helped idle and coasting rpm fluctuation but not hesitation. It was doing the hesitating before the swap, gradually getting worse. Can't really say that it got worse after the swap. I did notice when using a Snap-On Solus scan tool that the MAP sensor reading is about 9 inches of mercury at idle when the boost gauge is showing about 12 inches or so, maybe a little more, can't remember for sure due to being blessed with a crappy memory. Wondering if that's the issue. Because it does seem that it's flooding at times, I'm getting a rich mixture code every now and then and a fairly large puff of black smoke on acceleration. Maybe the MAP is sending a false signal to the ECM on acceleration causing to rich of a mixture 'till the O2 sensors pick it up and the ECM corrects it. It does seem that it's worse all together when in open loop. Does anyone have any idle MAP readings I can compare with? I don't know if I should have enough faith in the boost gauge to spend the money on a non-returnable MAP sensor.

 

this will never end lol

 

What will never end?

 

If you are reading 12 at normal idle you have a vacuum leak. Listen around the engine for it. My car runs 21-23 depending on how cold it is, warmed up, etc. etc. Did you have the blower off when you did the pulley? That gasket could be leaking.

 

Just went out and fired it up. It was showing about 15 at a cold idle (around 30 degrees). Yeah, pulled the blower to do the pulley. I'll take some carb cleaner and check for leaks everywhere.

 

Like someone mentioned, check the blower gasket. It is a rubber seal that is reusable, but they can bunch when you take the blower on and off.

 

Yeah, I'm gonna check that after a while.

 

You ask a serious question and get so much smart ass comments. No wonder people are scared to start threads. Bullshit!!!

 

gatta love cybershittalkers---- whats funny is, when you see them at a meet, they just shut their mouth and put there tail between their legs

 

Ain't that the truth. For future reference, I've got a thread going on timing chain tensioner replacement if you know anyone who's having a rattle problem. I'll hopefully be putting up some pics tomorrow.

 

pm me when you get it up please

 

Will do.

 

okay generally a vacuum leak will make the needle bounce some but yea 15 in of vacuum is way too little. also check for exhaust leaks at the flex pipe. that would create a rich condition and a hesitation but you should hear that. but it is most likely a vacuum leak. pull the supercharger off again and check everything out. I am not familiar with injector colors for the lsj application but if that means stock then you are lucky it has not blown up yet. acan idc's sometime if you get a chance, I would love to hear these numbers say thrid gear 6500 rpm wot.

maybe do a leak down and compression check also they are quick and easy and may reveal alot especially looking at plug color with it.

 

It's running rich enough to black the plugs. Had one out last night out of curiosity after cleaning the throttle body. Tomorrow I'll go over the exhaust, check for vacuum leaks and do a compression check. I might pull the valve cover and double check that I got it timed correctly when I did the timing chain, guide and tensioner replacement. I'm still not convinced that the MAP is reading correctly because there's about a 6 in hg difference between it and my boost gauge. I'm gonna check that again and go over it with a fine toothed comb tomorrow, schedule permitting.

 

map does not effect fueling unless you have a maf issue. The only time map will effect fueling is by creating a poor baro reading which yout ltft's will adjust for. If your maf is reading correctly it calculates its fueling based on air density and not manifold pressure. So i am doubting that is the issue. Try unplugging the maf. this reverts the computer into speed density mode and is a simple way of checking maf sanity. which the map does anyways during close loop operation. each sensor watches the other for variation so i would be suprised to see a bad maf that was this bad and not picked up by your pcm. but fine tooth comb let me know what you find and i can try to help. and if anyone feels like i just presented false information please correct me but this is how ls series engines (ls1, ls7 etc...) work and that is what i do most of my tuning on.