hahahaha its been done air to water setups and air to air setups both gain hp over stock and cool much much better than stock setups with alot of cooling parts added to it

 

im sure a air>air setup could be done using long runners going under the blower and over towards the intake side, than the blower blowing down and into 2.5" piping leading to a IC...but i dont think there would be much interest in that

 

I'd be interested in air to air.

 

See for an air-to-air SC the pics of the Lotus engine in the old thread.
(Such set-up will need some pretty solid piping connections as this will see vacuum behind the TB!)

 

Air to Air FTW

 

that something i whiped up in 3mins :p would be something like that...but would need a car on site to make it a production model...althought it is a good idea i may look for myself later

 

Freakta would be your biggest help jn....

 

proof? I thought I read some poor numbers on an air to air set up with the tvs and a ported head somewhere I think thats all i've seen?

 

Yes. Proof please.

 

i hear you i miss my ac for i deleted that **** already, it was worth the loss of the rotating mass. have the flanges arrived yet, to start fab n everything up?

 

Ah, Bonneville. Oh how I miss that place.

 

flanges should arrive tommorow...

 

Air to air is such a fail when using a roots blowers.

Honestly, I'll never run anything but water to air in any car I ever own again that has forced induction.

 

Then you are a moron... lol so what you are saying is that if you get an lnf you will install a air to water on it?

STFU!

 

Did you see the part where he said roots blower? The answer to your question is no.

Lets stay on topic people.

 

lol don't start... did you see the part where he said...

"Honestly, I'll never run anything but water to air in any car I ever own again that has forced induction."

... That was reffering to ANY forced induction
I SWEAR MOM, I CAN READ!!!! READING>YOU

 

Air to water equals better cooling because you can achieve over 100% effciency and shorter piping for quicker spool time, if turbo or centfigual supercharger. On a roots blower it's almost necessary just to allow the shortest length of piping possible.

If you knew the advantages of air to water, and how they work, you'd want one for every kind of forced induction.

 

iat1 was 96 iat 2 was 112 on third back to back pull through third gear with a small desk fan in front of car.... so ya it sucked really bad didnt cool anything hahaha, that was it hahaha. im sure street tuning with some air actually going through the intercooler would show some better numbers

 

I guarentee(sp?) this manifold will provide just as good of results as your method and probably come in cheaper and easier to do.

Oh and it won't sucrifice(sp?) flow.

 

my iat 1 and 2 temps are way higher than that right now. I'm seeing 130 and 157 for my iat's. I do have a dual pass, w/option b, second h/e, and meth. Explain that to me.

 

First off... lol ... you can NEVER achieve 100% efficiency...

Secondly... Don't argue points like shorter piping will have less lag, no sh*t. But in a properly setup an air>air there will be such a minimal amount more lag from the piping it wouldn't matter...

Lastly, tell me why all these engineers who are designing the SS/TC, NSRT-4, CSRT-4, Buick Grand NAtional, EVO, ETC, ETC... are using air>air... it is because in these cases (turbocharging) air>air is more logical and cost effective... Don't tell me you will install a water to air on every forced induction setup you ever own...

Dude get off this forum, I'm going to save you from flaming... I am making a statement right now...

If they are able to design a new water to air intake manifold for our cars. First off it will cost >$600 to break even with design time and materials... (that doesn't count markup to make a profit) and it wont yield as good of cooling numbers as a properly setup air>air...

Don't know according to slowswap you show have a 100% efficient setup which would mean the water is being cooled to ambient temps and the air going through the laminovas would cool the IAT2's down to ambient, being the system is 100% efficient.

 

Actually, I don't really think the cooling loop is the issue. For one, I removed the foglights that would be blocking air getting to the intake. There is nothing to work around and the air has a straight shot to the intake. That most likely means that the maf sensor itself is hot and won't cool down past a certain temperature. It's reading way higher than ambient temps, before the coolant loop would even have anything to do with cooling the compressed air down. The fenderwell has also been sealed off so no hot air from the engine compartment can get inside.

 

Sorry I was looking at your IAT2's, something is def. messed up with those IAT's...

 

I don't know exactly what's causing it, but it's killing my maximum timing. I can run only 13 degrees max at full power.

 

You don't know much about air to water setups do you. A little ice and it'll go over 100%.

If it'll make you feel better I'll agree with you.

You are correct. For a company, it is cheaper to go air to air. But if you're upgrading everything, it's not that much more for a good water to air setup.



Wrong. I bet this manifold provides better numbers then the one guy who has done an air to air. I don't know get how you think air to air cools better?

There are no laminova cores on this new manifold which is why it'll work so well. It will be able to cool very effectivly.