how does duall pass work?
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From: vegas
The option B diagram is also in that thread.
Heres a link directly to it:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/4819425-post15.html
Heres a link directly to it:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/4819425-post15.html
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Joined: 08-09-07
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From: Columbus, Ohio
The option B diagram is also in that thread.
Heres a link directly to it:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/4819425-post15.html
Heres a link directly to it:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/4819425-post15.html
ahhhh. hmm, well the main 3/4" hose off the option B tank could T off into the hose to the right of the stock fill cap. (youd end up with two fill caps, but thats actually kinda cool 
)
I'd cut a very small hose segment, put it on the fill neck's right-hand outlet, then attach a T between it and the purple hose. The small hose segment would basically just join the fill-neck's outlet and the T-fitting.
I think you could optionally cut the purple hose below the 90* bend and T into that.
)I'd cut a very small hose segment, put it on the fill neck's right-hand outlet, then attach a T between it and the purple hose. The small hose segment would basically just join the fill-neck's outlet and the T-fitting.
I think you could optionally cut the purple hose below the 90* bend and T into that.
Last edited by Pyros777; Sep 3, 2010 at 02:15 AM.
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Posts: 992
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From: Columbus, Ohio
ahhhh. hmm, well the main 3/4" hose off the option B tank could T off into the hose to the right of the stock fill cap. (youd end up with two fill caps, but thats actually kinda cool )
I'd cut a very small hose segment, put it on the fill neck's right-hand outlet, then attach a T between it and the purple hose. The small hose segment would basically just join the fill-neck's outlet and the T-fitting.
I think you could optionally cut the purple hose below the 90* bend and T into that.
)I'd cut a very small hose segment, put it on the fill neck's right-hand outlet, then attach a T between it and the purple hose. The small hose segment would basically just join the fill-neck's outlet and the T-fitting.
I think you could optionally cut the purple hose below the 90* bend and T into that.
Well, just in case you didn't know, the engine's coolant system is completely separate from the supercharger's. The DIC doesn't have a provision for viewing the supercharger system's temps either.
If you're seeing 200-220* on the Driver Information Center, then even the most efficient supercharger cooling setup will not lower those temps.
Heck, even the most efficient supercharger setup wont lower the stock system's temps. What it WILL do is slow down the time it takes to heatsoak, and speed up the time it takes to cool back down.
Anyway, 200-220* in the crazy weather you've been seeing in Ohio sounds about right. Thats what I hit when I'm in rush hour traffic.
If you're seeing 200-220* on the Driver Information Center, then even the most efficient supercharger cooling setup will not lower those temps.
Heck, even the most efficient supercharger setup wont lower the stock system's temps. What it WILL do is slow down the time it takes to heatsoak, and speed up the time it takes to cool back down.
Anyway, 200-220* in the crazy weather you've been seeing in Ohio sounds about right. Thats what I hit when I'm in rush hour traffic.
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Well, just in case you didn't know, the engine's coolant system is completely separate from the supercharger's. The DIC doesn't have a provision for viewing the supercharger system's temps either.
If you're seeing 200-220* on the Driver Information Center, then even the most efficient supercharger cooling setup will not lower those temps.
Heck, even the most efficient supercharger setup wont lower the stock system's temps. What it WILL do is slow down the time it takes to heatsoak, and speed up the time it takes to cool back down.
Anyway, 200-220* in the crazy weather you've been seeing in Ohio sounds about right. Thats what I hit when I'm in rush hour traffic.
If you're seeing 200-220* on the Driver Information Center, then even the most efficient supercharger cooling setup will not lower those temps.
Heck, even the most efficient supercharger setup wont lower the stock system's temps. What it WILL do is slow down the time it takes to heatsoak, and speed up the time it takes to cool back down.
Anyway, 200-220* in the crazy weather you've been seeing in Ohio sounds about right. Thats what I hit when I'm in rush hour traffic.
If you don't feel any pressure or pulsating in the lines, and there is no coolant movement when you look down the neck of the fill cap, you may need to install a new coolant pump.
This could definitely be the case, especially considering you have an 06. The pumps on these cars usually last about ~2 years depending on how often you drive the car.
This could definitely be the case, especially considering you have an 06. The pumps on these cars usually last about ~2 years depending on how often you drive the car.
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Posts: 992
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From: Columbus, Ohio
If you don't feel any pressure or pulsating in the lines, and there is no coolant movement when you look down the neck of the fill cap, you may need to install a new coolant pump.
This could definitely be the case, especially considering you have an 06. The pumps on these cars usually last about ~2 years depending on how often you drive the car.
This could definitely be the case, especially considering you have an 06. The pumps on these cars usually last about ~2 years depending on how often you drive the car.
If you wanna do option B tank without the dual-pass, you still T it in where the stock filler goes. Gains from option B by itself will be minimal at best.
To lower your driving temps, get a tune that brings your fans on earlier. Stock programming doesn't turn them on until 224 degrees. If you bring them on at 195, car never goes over 200. T-stat is 185 though, so you can't get it cooler than that and you don't need to.
If you have 50,000+ miles on the stock IC pump, it's dead. I replaced mine twice in 60K miles.
To lower your driving temps, get a tune that brings your fans on earlier. Stock programming doesn't turn them on until 224 degrees. If you bring them on at 195, car never goes over 200. T-stat is 185 though, so you can't get it cooler than that and you don't need to.
If you have 50,000+ miles on the stock IC pump, it's dead. I replaced mine twice in 60K miles.
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From: NY
The best way to keep the car cool in stop and go driving is to have the a/c on. The condenser, which is in front of the intercooler, gets pretty cold and the fans also help to draw that cool air over the intercooler.
Dual pass only works well when you're moving and your temps rise at WOT. If your IAT's aren't bad then it's really not worth buying.
When I'm driving on a 95 degree day, my IAT2's are ~110 tops, and that's with coolant in the I/C and not water. It's when I'm sitting in traffic they decide to climb up to 150 and beyond. Then you pull away from a light and the car is slow as ****. Not good, lol.
Yo quiero turbocharger.
Dual pass only works well when you're moving and your temps rise at WOT. If your IAT's aren't bad then it's really not worth buying.
When I'm driving on a 95 degree day, my IAT2's are ~110 tops, and that's with coolant in the I/C and not water. It's when I'm sitting in traffic they decide to climb up to 150 and beyond. Then you pull away from a light and the car is slow as ****. Not good, lol.
Yo quiero turbocharger.
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Joined: 08-09-07
Posts: 992
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From: Columbus, Ohio
If you wanna do option B tank without the dual-pass, you still T it in where the stock filler goes. Gains from option B by itself will be minimal at best.
To lower your driving temps, get a tune that brings your fans on earlier. Stock programming doesn't turn them on until 224 degrees. If you bring them on at 195, car never goes over 200. T-stat is 185 though, so you can't get it cooler than that and you don't need to.
If you have 50,000+ miles on the stock IC pump, it's dead. I replaced mine twice in 60K miles.
To lower your driving temps, get a tune that brings your fans on earlier. Stock programming doesn't turn them on until 224 degrees. If you bring them on at 195, car never goes over 200. T-stat is 185 though, so you can't get it cooler than that and you don't need to.
If you have 50,000+ miles on the stock IC pump, it's dead. I replaced mine twice in 60K miles.
Senior Member
Joined: 08-09-07
Posts: 992
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From: Columbus, Ohio
The best way to keep the car cool in stop and go driving is to have the a/c on. The condenser, which is in front of the intercooler, gets pretty cold and the fans also help to draw that cool air over the intercooler.
Dual pass only works well when you're moving and your temps rise at WOT. If your IAT's aren't bad then it's really not worth buying.
When I'm driving on a 95 degree day, my IAT2's are ~110 tops, and that's with coolant in the I/C and not water. It's when I'm sitting in traffic they decide to climb up to 150 and beyond. Then you pull away from a light and the car is slow as ****. Not good, lol.
Yo quiero turbocharger.
Dual pass only works well when you're moving and your temps rise at WOT. If your IAT's aren't bad then it's really not worth buying.
When I'm driving on a 95 degree day, my IAT2's are ~110 tops, and that's with coolant in the I/C and not water. It's when I'm sitting in traffic they decide to climb up to 150 and beyond. Then you pull away from a light and the car is slow as ****. Not good, lol.
Yo quiero turbocharger.
The best way to keep the car cool in stop and go driving is to have the a/c on. The condenser, which is in front of the intercooler, gets pretty cold and the fans also help to draw that cool air over the intercooler.
Dual pass only works well when you're moving and your temps rise at WOT. If your IAT's aren't bad then it's really not worth buying.
When I'm driving on a 95 degree day, my IAT2's are ~110 tops, and that's with coolant in the I/C and not water. It's when I'm sitting in traffic they decide to climb up to 150 and beyond. Then you pull away from a light and the car is slow as ****. Not good, lol.
Yo quiero turbocharger.
Dual pass only works well when you're moving and your temps rise at WOT. If your IAT's aren't bad then it's really not worth buying.
When I'm driving on a 95 degree day, my IAT2's are ~110 tops, and that's with coolant in the I/C and not water. It's when I'm sitting in traffic they decide to climb up to 150 and beyond. Then you pull away from a light and the car is slow as ****. Not good, lol.
Yo quiero turbocharger.
Dual-pass works better than any other single cooling system mod you can do. It actually keeps the coolant in the manifold cooler. H/E's are a waste IMO, along with bigger surge tanks and **** (I ran both on my car, just saying), but the endplate makes a difference.
Part throttle driving with no boost, your IAT2's only rise over ambient due to latent heat in the blower and intake manifold. As soon as you hit boost they will climb though.
humm ok, so gotta buy aeroforce, andhp tuners and learn to do that **** myself it would be more easier seeings how Wicked is an hour away and its hard to plan around each others schedule.. As far as the pump lol damn they really go dead that damn quick..? Wow guess I'll be getting one of those as well.. thanks for the help.
The pumps are cheap, under $100 brand new. Change it. The brushes are super soft and wear out quickly. Every one i've taken apart has had the same failure, brushes were just totally worn away.
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Joined: 06-03-07
Posts: 14,142
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From: NY
The condensor is like a radiator, it gets hot, not cold. The fans come on whenever the a/c is on though, this is why you see a drop in coolant temps. You will actually be pulling warm air from the condenser through the intercooler system H/E though.
Dual-pass works better than any other single cooling system mod you can do. It actually keeps the coolant in the manifold cooler. H/E's are a waste IMO, along with bigger surge tanks and **** (I ran both on my car, just saying), but the endplate makes a difference.
Part throttle driving with no boost, your IAT2's only rise over ambient due to latent heat in the blower and intake manifold. As soon as you hit boost they will climb though.
Dual-pass works better than any other single cooling system mod you can do. It actually keeps the coolant in the manifold cooler. H/E's are a waste IMO, along with bigger surge tanks and **** (I ran both on my car, just saying), but the endplate makes a difference.
Part throttle driving with no boost, your IAT2's only rise over ambient due to latent heat in the blower and intake manifold. As soon as you hit boost they will climb though.
JUNK.
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Joined: 08-09-07
Posts: 992
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From: Columbus, Ohio
HPT is up to you, if there's nobody local then yeah, best bet is buy it yourself. Don't need an Interceptor if you have HPT, you can log all the info or use it as a real-time readout on the laptop while driving.
The pumps are cheap, under $100 brand new. Change it. The brushes are super soft and wear out quickly. Every one i've taken apart has had the same failure, brushes were just totally worn away.
The pumps are cheap, under $100 brand new. Change it. The brushes are super soft and wear out quickly. Every one i've taken apart has had the same failure, brushes were just totally worn away.
