HOW GOOD IS YOUR HEADER Really?
ported exhaust manifolds are not the same as a header. It will not produce the same gains, especially when you have a more heavily modfied car. If you stick with S2 or something close to it, it should be suficient enough.
I was able to remove almost 1/4 inch of material from the small point of the collector. That has to make a difference. Also, as boost builds, exhaust flow pattern becomes less relevent, and all you really need is raw airflow. Scavenging and exhaust velocity are not nearly as much of a factor on a S/C engine as on a N/A one.
acually a header does more than just let more air flow, if it is a tuned lengh header, it allows exhaust gas coming from one cylinder to create a vacuum for the next cylinder so that the first exhaust gas pulls the next exhaust gas and so on and so forth. thereby making your engine not work so hard to push the exhaust gas out of the cylinder.
Have you dynoed your gains? Or are you estimating?
Have you dynoed your gains? Or are you estimating?
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True, but it is a cheap mod and simple if you have the tools to do it yourself. The factory manifold design is almost a 4-2-1 shorty header, which is better than some of the crap that you get from the aftermarket community. The only real gains will come from a long-tube header that is substantially larger.
I was able to remove almost 1/4 inch of material from the small point of the collector. That has to make a difference. Also, as boost builds, exhaust flow pattern becomes less relevent, and all you really need is raw airflow. Scavenging and exhaust velocity are not nearly as much of a factor on a S/C engine as on a N/A one.
I was able to remove almost 1/4 inch of material from the small point of the collector. That has to make a difference. Also, as boost builds, exhaust flow pattern becomes less relevent, and all you really need is raw airflow. Scavenging and exhaust velocity are not nearly as much of a factor on a S/C engine as on a N/A one.
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ZZP shorty ceramic header and 3" catless downpipe.
Well it is in. with some help from a friend (who had a blown out downpipe that need my pipe till his was covered by warranty.) heres a review.
Comparison with stock -Header - well stock is a shorty header that goes 4-2-1. ZZP goes 4-1. the stock header pipes are smaller visually compared to the 1 5/8" ZZP. The stock collector was way smaller with a 2" compared to the ZZP 3".
Down pipe - Stock - major constriction at the top of the header in the flexpipe. now I see why GMP exhaust is only 2.25" cat back. you dont need anything more. aftert the cat the pipe is quished a little at the 2nd O2 bung. slight constriction just before the rear exhaust pipe.
ZZP - 3" mendrel bend no cat what else can you say. it will flow. alot. it can be orderd many different ways. I chose - 2.5" reduction to bolt up to factory rear exhaust and an addition of a 02 bung. I love this header. what I didnt like is where the o2 bung was placed. it was put 32" away from shorty header. ZZP says this has not caused a problem, but wideband instructions would deem this to be too far to be accurate and heating up the O2 would take longer. It winter it may never reach 600f in -40f weather (Canada). I put in another bung where it should be. now it is only 9" away from header.
Install - car has 35000K or I think that would be about 25000miles. done pretty well all with hand tools. the header nut were tough to crack but managed to do it. the heat shield for the motor mount had to be bent over to make room for the WBO2 in the new position. if the O2 bung that I had welded in was a little higher (just repositioned a little) it could had clearence to get by. the pipe itself with header was 1 1/2" shorter. it bolted together but I will get it changed. there is too much stress on the exhaust mounts and flex pipe to leave it like this. I want to have so I can bolt stock exhaust back in if I want so will likely modify the downpipe.
Run it -
Initially - well make sure your not in stop and go traffic for too long. ceramic coating has to bake. it smells like you have an exhaust leak. 10 rides cures this. It is quiet if your not on it. on start up you can tell it is not stock with a little high revs on start up but it confuses people cause it looks stock.
WHen you get on it - it is impressive. you know it is not stock. catch 22 is that it is borderline ricey. some say it is good, some say they like it but would like a deeper tone. for doing performance exhaust it will do still I do the rest of it.
Performance - well with my set-up I did so many other changes I can really tell how much I gained. I went from GMS2 to ZZP header, 3" downpipe, 60lbs injectors, HPTuners, and a 2.6" pulley. With all this I am still tuning. I like it.
bottom line- here it is.
good - definitely will flow better over stock. you can tell just by looking at it. bolts in well.
bad - Shorty header and downpipe overall is shorter by an 1 1/2" than stock. Optional o2bung gets put in a spot IMO to far away from the header for the WBo2 as set out by the manufacturer of the WB (Autometer). just dont order the extra bung and get an exhaust shop to do it. cost $15 to put one in. the bung came with my WB.
WOULD I BUY IT AGAIN? - YES OF COURSE. just without the o2 bung and then put one in myself.
Comparison with stock -Header - well stock is a shorty header that goes 4-2-1. ZZP goes 4-1. the stock header pipes are smaller visually compared to the 1 5/8" ZZP. The stock collector was way smaller with a 2" compared to the ZZP 3".
Down pipe - Stock - major constriction at the top of the header in the flexpipe. now I see why GMP exhaust is only 2.25" cat back. you dont need anything more. aftert the cat the pipe is quished a little at the 2nd O2 bung. slight constriction just before the rear exhaust pipe.
ZZP - 3" mendrel bend no cat what else can you say. it will flow. alot. it can be orderd many different ways. I chose - 2.5" reduction to bolt up to factory rear exhaust and an addition of a 02 bung. I love this header. what I didnt like is where the o2 bung was placed. it was put 32" away from shorty header. ZZP says this has not caused a problem, but wideband instructions would deem this to be too far to be accurate and heating up the O2 would take longer. It winter it may never reach 600f in -40f weather (Canada). I put in another bung where it should be. now it is only 9" away from header.
Install - car has 35000K or I think that would be about 25000miles. done pretty well all with hand tools. the header nut were tough to crack but managed to do it. the heat shield for the motor mount had to be bent over to make room for the WBO2 in the new position. if the O2 bung that I had welded in was a little higher (just repositioned a little) it could had clearence to get by. the pipe itself with header was 1 1/2" shorter. it bolted together but I will get it changed. there is too much stress on the exhaust mounts and flex pipe to leave it like this. I want to have so I can bolt stock exhaust back in if I want so will likely modify the downpipe.
Run it -
Initially - well make sure your not in stop and go traffic for too long. ceramic coating has to bake. it smells like you have an exhaust leak. 10 rides cures this. It is quiet if your not on it. on start up you can tell it is not stock with a little high revs on start up but it confuses people cause it looks stock.
WHen you get on it - it is impressive. you know it is not stock. catch 22 is that it is borderline ricey. some say it is good, some say they like it but would like a deeper tone. for doing performance exhaust it will do still I do the rest of it.
Performance - well with my set-up I did so many other changes I can really tell how much I gained. I went from GMS2 to ZZP header, 3" downpipe, 60lbs injectors, HPTuners, and a 2.6" pulley. With all this I am still tuning. I like it.
bottom line- here it is.
good - definitely will flow better over stock. you can tell just by looking at it. bolts in well.
bad - Shorty header and downpipe overall is shorter by an 1 1/2" than stock. Optional o2bung gets put in a spot IMO to far away from the header for the WBo2 as set out by the manufacturer of the WB (Autometer). just dont order the extra bung and get an exhaust shop to do it. cost $15 to put one in. the bung came with my WB.
WOULD I BUY IT AGAIN? - YES OF COURSE. just without the o2 bung and then put one in myself.
Last edited by Asphalt Assault; May 19, 2007 at 03:28 PM.
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