How to remove stock boost gauge?
Auto Meter Electrical Gauges cost twice as much as the mechanical. You only need 2 of the 4 wire to hook up the mechanical, and if you use the right wires it does turn on and off with your instrument lights.
If you get a mechanical gauge you get faster response and it leaves the switched power open for an AeroForce Interceptor. I should know. I have both.
Pink wire goes to the power wire of the Interceptor.
Black w/ white stripe goes to the black wire of the mechanical boost guage.
Gray wire goes to the white wire of the mechanical boost guage


If you get a mechanical gauge you get faster response and it leaves the switched power open for an AeroForce Interceptor. I should know. I have both.
Pink wire goes to the power wire of the Interceptor.
Black w/ white stripe goes to the black wire of the mechanical boost guage.
Gray wire goes to the white wire of the mechanical boost guage

Last edited by Cobalt_Supercharged; Mar 13, 2007 at 12:39 AM.
Auto Meter Electrical Gauges cost twice as much as the mechanical. You only need 2 of the 4 wire to hook up the mechanical, and if you use the right wires it does turn on and off with your instrument lights.
If you get a mechanical gauge you get faster response and it leaves the switched power open for an AeroForce Interceptor. I should know. I have both.
Pink wire goes to the power wire of the Interceptor.
Black w/ white stripe goes to the black wire of the mechanical boost guage.
Gray wire goes to the white wire of the mechanical boost guage



If you get a mechanical gauge you get faster response and it leaves the switched power open for an AeroForce Interceptor. I should know. I have both.
Pink wire goes to the power wire of the Interceptor.
Black w/ white stripe goes to the black wire of the mechanical boost guage.
Gray wire goes to the white wire of the mechanical boost guage


The wires are in the connector that plugs into the stock boost guage. The bottom is the diagram showing the connector that is in the pillar and the wires that are associated with it. That is the diagram directly from GM.
ok im not sure, but i thought a mechanical boost gauge only had 2 wires? a power and ground, and then a vacuum line?
oh ok are you saying that the black with white stripe goes to the ground to the new boost gauge, and the grey goes to the white power wire? so you dont have to go all the way to the engine bay to hook up the wires, just cut off the old wires and splice with new wires?
oh ok are you saying that the black with white stripe goes to the ground to the new boost gauge, and the grey goes to the white power wire? so you dont have to go all the way to the engine bay to hook up the wires, just cut off the old wires and splice with new wires?
Last edited by stvn; Mar 13, 2007 at 09:12 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
ok im not sure, but i thought a mechanical boost gauge only had 2 wires? a power and ground, and then a vacuum line?
oh ok are you saying that the black with white stripe goes to the ground to the new boost gauge, and the grey goes to the white power wire? so you dont have to go all the way to the engine bay to hook up the wires, just cut off the old wires and splice with new wires?
oh ok are you saying that the black with white stripe goes to the ground to the new boost gauge, and the grey goes to the white power wire? so you dont have to go all the way to the engine bay to hook up the wires, just cut off the old wires and splice with new wires?
so i purchased the pillar that goes over the stock one, i understand that u have to screw it into the stock one but i do not want to make it look shitty like with holes.
so im asking is there another way to keep it on without screwing it in incase if i end up selling the car...
or should i just go to a junkyard and put holes into another one and put stocker back on when time to sell.
so im asking is there another way to keep it on without screwing it in incase if i end up selling the car...
or should i just go to a junkyard and put holes into another one and put stocker back on when time to sell.
Yes. Actually I just drilled a couple holesand made some makeshift brackets so I could remount the stock gauge if I wanted to. The How-to's actually cut the entire tab off. Not to wise if you want to return it stock since the factory pillar is $120+ from GM.
If you purchased the AutoMeter gauge pod like mine, it does not go over the stock pillar. It replaces the stock pillar. No need to drill holes in the stock pillar.
so i purchased the pillar that goes over the stock one, i understand that u have to screw it into the stock one but i do not want to make it look shitty like with holes.
so im asking is there another way to keep it on without screwing it in incase if i end up selling the car...
or should i just go to a junkyard and put holes into another one and put stocker back on when time to sell.
so im asking is there another way to keep it on without screwing it in incase if i end up selling the car...
or should i just go to a junkyard and put holes into another one and put stocker back on when time to sell.
hmm i didnt know it measured hp and acceleration times. everyone is always asking me what im running. do you think it will be retarted to get a 3 gauge pod, and only have 2 gauges in it for awhile, untill i get enough money for the interceptor?
It's an estimated HP and acceleration, not actual. Although there is an adjustment feature for the HP if you get it dynoed and it shows different numbers. That is up to you. It might look a bit goofy, but if you don't mind leaving it like that til you get the other gauge why not.
It's an estimated HP and acceleration, not actual. Although there is an adjustment feature for the HP if you get it dynoed and it shows different numbers. That is up to you. It might look a bit goofy, but if you don't mind leaving it like that til you get the other gauge why not.


