BoSStwick

Its kind of a long story, but I'll make it short. I purchased ZZP's Stage 3 Kit roughly five months ago, maybe less. I chose the #60 injectors with the kit and sent my PCM to ZZP for a tune. When it arrived I put the PCM into the car. What resulted was a functioning car with no check engine light but a decently strong idle surge. I tolerated the surge for about four months until now. I emailed ZZP and told them the situation, they then emailed me back telling me to send my PCM to them for no charge because they had an updated tune they would be glad to give me. Well, I did this roughly a week and a half ago and the PCM arrived today. I excitedly put the PCM in and started the car... and no more idle surge! But then, my enthusiasm was crushed as the check engine light burst on. It idled great for the first five minutes but then emitted a quiet gargling sound that didn't sound quite right. I took the car out (this is after the car sitting 2 months in the garage for winter) and gave it a roughly 15 minute drive. While driving I noticed my gauges would not light up, I turned on my lights and turned them off repeatedly with no success. It was after I gave it a little gas they slowly turned on in a blinking sketchy sort of way. I also noticed that when I come up to a light or a stop sign the cars rpm's drop and then jump (almost like idle surge) and the gauge lights almost struggle to stay on. My first thought was the battery but I quickly ruled that out because it wasn't doing this when I started my car with the old tune, which was right before I took the PCM out for it to get sent in for the better tune.

Overall, ZZP sent me my PCM back with no idle surge, but gave me a check engine light, a glitchy electrical system, and idle drop at stop signs. It's drivable, meaning it didn't stall on me for the 15 minute drive, but I'm not a fan of driving a car that's as unpredictable as it is now.

JapEatr

iTrader: (9)

dude sounds like your alternator or battery

BoSStwick

Cool thanks, I'm glad one of my guesses were right haha. The only thing that confuses me is that I didn't use my car at all between the time my old tune was on now the new one. Mabye ZZP can chime on in here so I don't have to write an email to them.

JapEatr

iTrader: (9)

charge the battery and go drive it, after sitting for two months it is likely weak.

that will throw the electrical system into fits

383_Stroker

iTrader: (3)

Alternator or battery x 2

otherwise, make sure all your cables are seated fully on the ecm.

Wert842

iTrader: (3)

Definitely battery. Go get it checked.

More than likely zzp tweaked the tune for the idle, but since the car was sitting it weakened the battery.

BoSStwick

Oh I forgot to say that on my aeroforce I saw that the battery was at a steady 14.3. That seems normal right? I'm trying to learn as much as I can bare with me haha.

383_Stroker

iTrader: (3)

Whats it at when the engine isn't running?

BoSStwick

11.5

383_Stroker

iTrader: (3)

Bad battery indeed

JapEatr

iTrader: (9)

agreed, low amps combined with low voltage equal unhappy PCM/BCM

BoSStwick

Great! Thanks again guys, I was worried it was a bigger problem. To charge up the battery do I have to use a trickle charger or can I just let the car run for 30 minutes?

Tjolley

Start the car u should see 13.5-14.7 volts with the Car running.

Also take the car to a autozone they will test the batterie and alternator on the car for free.

turbosmart4

iTrader: (18)

Why charge ur old battery? Get a new one and sell the old one

BoSStwick

Just to clarify, my engine light ended up being for misfires. I went home, took out my spark plugs, cleaned them, added some di-electric grease, then tightened them up to 15 ft pounds and no more check engine light, and no more misfires! The battery might still be screwed up though because my lights and rpms sometimes randomly drop and my lights dim extremely low while driving, so maybe there were two issues to begin with. Either way the big problem is solved, and I'm back to going past 100 in places I probably shouldn't!