DarkChild

iTrader: (2)

I have a video which I will try to upload if I can but my question is. Why does my IAT2 temperature fluctuate so much? If I am cruising it will stay at 80-100*F but I soon as I put it in neutral it climbs pretty quickly to like 120*F (General temp area). Then once I start to drive again it goes back down to what it was at.

I have an Ottp H/E, Opt. B, Dual pass, and a TVS with the stock 3.15" pulley. I have a full 3" exhaust and DP bolted to a Bad-mab header. I thought that should help a little. More so with EGT but still...

I bought a new I/C pump last year and if it is shot again I am going to be upset. Is the TVS just that hot or could there be air in my system? I have a Methanol kit which I have yet to install. I hope that helps; only under WOT though. At the moment under WOT... IAT2's skyrocket to 180* on a run.

thedude411

iTrader: (1)

i have the same set up and pretty much the same results as you. if the intercooler pump wasnt working it would be a lot higher than 80-100. my intercooler pump died last summer and i was seeing 160+

mine dont jump to 180 on a WOT run tho...

DarkChild

iTrader: (2)

I think the blower is just that hot. Thank you. I was getting a little worried. As for a what I mean by a run, 40-120MPH. It goes from the normal temperature to about 180*F.

I'm going to put my meth kit in and get the damn car tuned and finish it once and for all.

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

check your ic pump

breds2k

iTrader: (1)

my buddys 06 just got HP tuned, and the intercooler pump wasnt up to par, plus he did a stage 2 and didnt realize he needed a spacer or dual pass, so we had to limp his car home.

Gotta do a dual pass, phenolic spacers and new IC pump.

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

a spacer or a dual pass isent needed they just help recovery times you have problems elsewhere

breds2k

iTrader: (1)

it must just be from the ic pump being shot, and something to do with the battery dieing during tuning, that was NOT good.

asherby85

iTrader: (2)

My bf was data logging my car yesterday and I did a WOT pull and temps were getting to 187* so I ordered a new IC pump from OTTP on my phone while I was driving.

tylerjclance

iTrader: (7)

If you're hitting 180
then your ic pump is having issues.

The ic pumps for our cars SUCK :-/
i just replaced mine

sujomatt

iTrader: (3)

No one has designed a mechanical style pump?

breds2k

iTrader: (1)

ya i wonder why they are crappy? and were ok before stage 2 install, i wonder what screwed it up.

DarkChild

iTrader: (2)

I didn't want to hear that the pump was broken... again. What a piece of sh*t. I guess I will attempt to rebuild my old one.

That could also be why my car is knocking out of the blue under WOT. Awesome...

bluebalt07

iTrader: (8)

180 is way too hot. I wouldn't do anymore WOT runs til I got a new one if I were you

nhanson

iTrader: (1)

Agreed.

Try a brushless pump. I found one on ebay from CX racing

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

its an electric motor that is sealed what do you expect

how could they and what would power it

they are crappy because there is no way to clean and lubricate the brushes if you could clean all the **** out of it from time to time it would last longer

insylem

The LSJ has a power steering blank out plate. What if some one could make a mod to take tha off and use the intake camshaft to drive it?

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

it would probably move to much to fast and cool less eficantly not to mention it would probably
look like ass located there

DarkChild

iTrader: (2)

Link please. I am willing to test it out.

Edit:

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=WAPM

I just bought one off of the site. I hope it works good.

heathkidder

iTrader: (20)

The temp ur checking is it the one in the info or a diff. One

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

The temps go down for driving versus idle because of the cooler inlet air flow. TB open but no load = fresh cool air hitting the IAT2 sensor. You have a bad pump if they go that high immediately.

I don't know why people bitch about the pumps, they are cheap, they run all the time and use soft brushes, I changed it twice in 60,000 miles over 3 years. Plan on doing it once a year and stop whining, it's not that expensive.

You can open them up and rebuild them. It's just a PITA to put them back together. I've replaced worn stock brushes with brand new ones and had a working pump again, for about $10. I'm betting the replacement ones were probably harder as well, and would last longer. I didn't use that pump personally so I can't say.

nhanson

iTrader: (1)

You got it.

DarkChild

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I bought it. Can someone post the replacement parts you need so that I can rebuild the 2 broken ones? For spares.

I8URVET

So i need to hop in here, my car has been running very bad when i hit 190 engine temp and 90 AIT, but im confused with AIT and AIT2? which one am i seeing on my PLX? it says AIT, do i need parts or what to read AIT2?

383_Stroker

iTrader: (3)

IAT2 is the important one, that the post-supercharger temperature

I8URVET

Thats what i keep hearing but i dont think the PLX scanguage reads it?