IAT2's after H/E Install
05-12-2009, 01:46 AM
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IAT2's after H/E Install
What should my IAT's be at after a 50-110 WOT run? I was seeing 188-194... Right now, there is only about a gallon of coolant added and I think more will need to be added. What is the best way to bleed the air out of the H/E?
HAMMER TIME
05-12-2009, 02:01 AM
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check out my sig for what i have done, at the top of third gear i see 135 tops
with the dual pass intercooler endplate it will bleed out the air into the option b tank
with the dual pass intercooler endplate it will bleed out the air into the option b tank
05-12-2009, 02:10 AM
#6
after the car is cooled down, normally every morning i did it after i installed my ottp dual pass h/e. i just opened up the filler neck and kept adding coolant, till finally i didn't need to keep adding. but, after we did install it, we took the coolant line coming off the pump and held that as vertical and as high as we could. i'm pretty sure we temporarily coupled it to a longer hose. so the end of the hose was the highest part in the system, and then just kept pouring and pouring untill it was flowing out of the pump. then reattached the hose
05-12-2009, 11:02 AM
#12
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190 IAT means don't drive hard, holy crap!
If you do't have the GM option B setup, then there is no easy way to bleed the lines. You have to drive the car and just keep adding more coolant. It can easily take a couple of weeks to bleed all the air out.
On the stock HE there is a bleed screw on the top passenger side (which is where the option B hooks up). If you get a NPT barb fitting and put it in there then run a hose from the barb to the fill neck you can bleed it that way. An aftermarket HE may have a bleed screw on it somewhere as well and if so you would need to do the same thing to get the air out of it as well.
If you do't have the GM option B setup, then there is no easy way to bleed the lines. You have to drive the car and just keep adding more coolant. It can easily take a couple of weeks to bleed all the air out.
On the stock HE there is a bleed screw on the top passenger side (which is where the option B hooks up). If you get a NPT barb fitting and put it in there then run a hose from the barb to the fill neck you can bleed it that way. An aftermarket HE may have a bleed screw on it somewhere as well and if so you would need to do the same thing to get the air out of it as well.
05-12-2009, 12:22 PM
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190 IAT means don't drive hard, holy crap!
If you do't have the GM option B setup, then there is no easy way to bleed the lines. You have to drive the car and just keep adding more coolant. It can easily take a couple of weeks to bleed all the air out.
On the stock HE there is a bleed screw on the top passenger side (which is where the option B hooks up). If you get a NPT barb fitting and put it in there then run a hose from the barb to the fill neck you can bleed it that way. An aftermarket HE may have a bleed screw on it somewhere as well and if so you would need to do the same thing to get the air out of it as well.
If you do't have the GM option B setup, then there is no easy way to bleed the lines. You have to drive the car and just keep adding more coolant. It can easily take a couple of weeks to bleed all the air out.
On the stock HE there is a bleed screw on the top passenger side (which is where the option B hooks up). If you get a NPT barb fitting and put it in there then run a hose from the barb to the fill neck you can bleed it that way. An aftermarket HE may have a bleed screw on it somewhere as well and if so you would need to do the same thing to get the air out of it as well.
05-12-2009, 03:51 PM
#15
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The car will pull timing when the IAT2 gets that high, so it won't hurt the car unless you keep doing it. You may just want to be careful until it can get bled all the way.
05-12-2009, 05:36 PM
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logging is dne through an aeroforce gauge. the pump is working and staying around 120 during normal driving. im running the stock H/E and the ZZP one.
05-12-2009, 06:15 PM
#19
How do you know your pump is working just because of 120 running temp?
If it recovers semi quick, it probably has air in it, needs purging. come to think of it, even with bubbles in my system with stock H/E, just with DP I wasnt running that high, that is why we are all pointing at the pump.
05-12-2009, 06:23 PM
#20
2006RedCobaltSS What kind of mods do you have besides the heat exchanger? (pulley size, exhaust, etc)
120 is not too horrible for a hot day, it should not go above 140 though even at w0t. The PCM progressively pulls timing to avoid melting a piston and or detonation.
120 is not too horrible for a hot day, it should not go above 140 though even at w0t. The PCM progressively pulls timing to avoid melting a piston and or detonation.
05-12-2009, 06:46 PM
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aint that the truf
good luck with that... well relying on that anyways...
but yes your right
but yes your right
Last edited by hungryhip-ccp; 05-12-2009 at 06:46 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
05-12-2009, 06:56 PM
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ok first off everone in this thread does not live where he lives maby its 23469834956349 degres out there lol but anyhow i would say like the others to just check to make sure coolant is flowing.. its easy to look at.. bleading it i would do it the way some 1 b4 me said use the stock h/e and do the opt b into its self and it will self blead( prob take a whie thought lol)
1.Tap off where the opt b tank does
2.run a line from that bleeder to the filler neck( on top) and let it go and go...( idk if having the cap off the neck while its running willwork but idk...
3. you could always blead it into a clean tank or something of the sort( the gallon jug u filled it with and keep adding it back in... that will get rid of the air.)
1.Tap off where the opt b tank does
2.run a line from that bleeder to the filler neck( on top) and let it go and go...( idk if having the cap off the neck while its running willwork but idk...
3. you could always blead it into a clean tank or something of the sort( the gallon jug u filled it with and keep adding it back in... that will get rid of the air.)