i live in the desert of so.cal i know what hot is, and 190 is piston popping hot, period

 

Yes I hear you! Something is wrong... Dont WOT ever again! lol

 

im sure you know all about heat... i see your running slugs... you pop one motor already?


nevermind i see coming up.... i thought you were forged now and coming up was the turbo build...

 

Oh yah my motor is toast!

Slug is coming. lol Some minor complications with getting a kit, but will be coming soon (fully forged and turbo)!

But I want the OP to reply. I dont like waiting.

 

im at work posting from my phone. i did a WOT now that i added more coolant, went up to 138. that was a 1st and 2nd run. im going to see if i can get my buddy to come over and turn the pump on via HPT

 

once you go turbo then the potentail truley starts to shine. now forge it and fix the fueling problem (returnless) and the power really starts to show off some numbers, throw in some race gas fully ported head, gmr cams and springs. looking at or close to 500whp


all on the hahn manifold and air to air of course.

if 440 can be done on stock heads and cams... but sorry op im done,

 

Cruising IAT's at 40 MPH. What should they be?

 

anywhere from 9-20* above iat.


IAT is gonna be the temp outside, IAT-2 is gonna be after the air has passed the SC

 

damn... Maybe my pump is out. 120-134 IAT2 while cruising. After a WOT run, 147 then 30 seconds later, back to 120-134.. This car is making me mad. Going back to a mustang soon.

 

That is definately high IAT2 for cruising. You shouldn't be seeing more than 90 or 100 at cruising.

 

lolz my IAT1 the other day in wonderful florida was 122*F, IAT2 134*F at cruise

 

Yea, thats what I was figuring. I guess Ill just keep driving and filling it until it doesn't take anymore. Nothing else I can really do. Just don't have time to do the option B right now. Starting summer classes and working 40 hours+ a week

 

I was going to suggest this method. It will drain your battery because it takes a while so be prepared.

 

It doesn't take awhile lol....you can force it on and it will take all of about 2 seconds lol.

The problem with the pump is that metal shavings get built up on the inside and they get stuck. If you tap the pump with a hammer 4 or 5 times gently this should loosen up those shavings. If not take it into the dealership and or just buy a new pump. They are under 100 bucks and are pretty simple to change.

Either way your pump is currently not flowing and this issue NEEDS to be fixed before you do hard wot pulls again.

 

he was referring to the bleeding of air taking a while. not turning on the pump. It took me about an hour to get it to where I could drive it then remove the cap and let the air out. My battery didn't drain, the car still started fine. You need to drive it to get the coolant hot and expanded/contracted to get the full effects of removing all the air. probly a few short 10 min drives will allow you to remove the air

 

Ah ok I was going to say lol. I never had a problem with air in my system, although he has a bad pump so this is all pointless. He needs a new pump.

 

hahahah drain your battery... yah maybe if it was running all damn night and day. The amp pull on that tiny pump isnt **** compared to the battery.

I ran mine for 1 hour, then waited (I had to do something else) then for another half hour.. Started like a champ!

 

when the car pulls timing off the car when it is hot does that effect the boost. will the boost drop a little.

 

Your wrong... air in the system, im staying at 100-118 now driving on highway, only goes up to 140 1st-3rd pull then back down..

 

The option B tank that GM has ... what exactly does it look like and where does it mount?

 

no. timing wont effect boost. but if the IAT2 gets way hot like 200*, it will pull boost along wiht the timing

 

i think that is what is happening to me. I would boost to 17 psi with the 2.9 pulley now since i changed my heat exchanger it is barely getting to 15 psi. I hooked it up correctly. I think there is still a lot of air in the heat exchanger system. what would be the fasted way to bleed the air out.

 

Dont feel bad mike, my IATs were at 250 once when AJ logged me......My car still runs...But damn does it limp after i race. I just got my Pump workin again though so im okay and no more pulled timing

 

2006RedCobaltSS - What are the temps outside because those temps are still a little high for cruising. You shouldn't be any more then 25 degrees higher then ambient while cruising or the pump isn't working. Also keep an eye on the temps because the pump is known to turn on and off while its going out.

 

i live in miami and on my DIC display it reads about 95* ambient temp, and on my interceptor, cruising at 45ish, i usually see about 125-130*....