That is not what I said.

Zero is the only truly acceptable number.

 

I was going to leave the thread.

I just wanted to say to the originator of the thread that in a properly modified car, KNOCK IS Unaceptable.


Don't settle for garbage, an engine is supposed to be managed actively, if it's stock, then the stock computer will work fine, adding bolt on parts to a car makes it no longer stock.

The reality is that perhaps the car can run a long time in it's untuned state, but to say that Knock is Normal or Ok is a Redneck and Totally BS Approach to modifing automobiles.

Peace Out Billy BOB..

 

Thats the problem, there isn't any gas here thats higher then 92. I thought the gas I've been getting was 91 octane but it's 92.

 

I never said knock is normal or okay, but it does happen and nonetheless we must deal with it. ESPECIALLY since there is NOTHING we can do about it on these cars.

 

just an interesting point here, Cobra's do not have any knock sensors at all. The SC interferes with the device and it cannot properly detect knock. The car does knock under part throttle and load, and you guys are right, you can't ever completely get rid of it.

But under WOT, the car is tuned to NEVER get any knock. I would agree that you never want knock, and you really don't want it under WOT, and you should not rely just on your knock sensor.

 

It is interesting that Ford chose not to use them but I don't think it is for the reason you mention. We have adapted the MP112 (race version of the M112 on the cobra) to our 3800's and still use our knock sensors just fine. You CAN get rid of knock and most modified engines do however if your are hampered by the PCM it can be challanging for sure. Please remember that some of the KR your seeing is not really knock but the PCM pulling timing due to torque management settings. In the 3800 world and I'm assuming the LSJ as well GM has things such as torque limiters in the PCM to reduce stress on the drivetrain. When those limits are exceeded the PCM pulls timing using the knock retard system and this can register as KR. As Rob mentioned adding race gas will show if its real knock or either false or torque management. If you still get the KR then you know its not real.

BTW race gas = 100 or higher octane.

 

My biggest problem is going from 2nd to 3rd, and 3rd to 4th. If I giver the shift and let off a bit it shows up to 4 or 5 KR. Since I can't get 100 octane gas here is there anything else I can try to see if it's real KR or not? I don't wanna run this kit if I get this much KR. I seem to get it in the last 500rpm as well. I get 1 to 2.5 KR, My Maf WOT setting is on the second from the richest too. I don't think I'm anywheres near beeing lean so I don't understand it. I understand the timing is not set to be used with this 2.8" pulley. Someone said something about a MAP clamp to tune down the signal to match the MAF. Anyone know anything about this?

 

Oh ya, I was going to try and get a dyno this weekend. Do you think the dyno guy will have any ideas?

 

What octane are you running again?

NM just read 92 (or 91). High octane is pretty much mandatory to run a car with high boost (such as yours) or you WILL get KR. You may have better luck dropping down to a 3.0 pulley.

 

I thought I was running high octane?!? We have reg, plus and supreme. I run the supreme, does everyone else run higher than 92 octane pump gas with a 2.8" pulley?

 

1) They (L67's) chip pistons, not heads or headgaskets, of course you wouldn't know since you have never owned one.

2) Call all the auto manufactuers and tell them they are idiots because they sell untuned cars and cover it up with knock sensors

3)I agree, no KR is best and should be everyones goal but you have to set a limit! You CAN'T expect to have no KR the 5th time you have it to the floor with-in a short time period! You have to give the engine time to cool down some, so that is where the knock sensors help. Those times you forget how much you flogged the car and your first 3 wots were KR free and now that it is all hotter than hell you romp again and get some KR. You are protected, somewhat

4) I'm still trying to figure out why you post on this forum since you don't even own a cobalt?

 

I wonder why it seems no one else is having this problem? I don't think everyone runs race gas all the time or anything. I can't even drive in 5th gear at 70mph up an incline without getting 5 or 6 KR. I know I'm not lean, or at least I don't think. I'm going to order a Wideband A/F gauge this week. Can you get KR by beeing too rich? I don't really think this is fake KR cause it's always when the car is under a bit of a load. I'm starting to get really pissed off that I spent my money on this and can't even use the car. I'm getting 2 or 3 KR at WOT and my O2 sensor read around 890-930.

 

Since you can only get 91 Octane, i suggest you go to a bigger pulley or add water injection.

 

See thats shy I'm wondering what everyone else with the kit is running for octane level. I don't understand my no one else seems to talk about this problem. I'm sure not everyone runs over 92 octane. I don't know why no one mentions this when talking about this kit. I wanna have 270hp to the wheels. So the only way I'm gonna get it is with race gas? Sounds pretty crazy to me.

 

I was just looking into the octane ratings here. Come to find out our Supreme (which I run) is 93 octane.

 

I guess no body else with the Intense kit posts on here. I'd like to hear from some other people with a scan gauge and 2.8" pulley, and what octane they run and what Knock Retard shows on the gauge. It seems I'm the only one with this problem......

 

I have the Intense kit with a scan gauge. I usually run 94 octane Sunoco gas. I saw 1-2 degrees of KR this morning sitting at idle when I first started the car and let it sit for a minute. And I've put about 3000 miles on the car with the kit on it. Really there is no problem with this kit. Just put it on and go. And just think, in a few weeks when the PCM is done by them too, you will already have support from them as a returning customer.

 

I run an intense stage 3 on my redline with a K&N and I have 0 KR with a 2.7" pulley on 93 or 94 octane. Only time I get KR is when letting off/getting on the gas. 0 KR on WOT runs.

 

I run 93 octane, i get some tip-in KR but none under WOT!

 

JMC007 runs a 2.6" on the canadian gas and gets 4-5deg KR!

 

Hey FAST06SS, so 4 or 5ged kr is ok? I live in Canada too.

 

Ok people need some feed back. Has anyone with the intense taken they car to the deallership to get a check up yet and if so what parts of the warranty did they void if they did any at all. Any help ,on this one would be great.

 

Are you crazy? That is just asking for trouble...kiss your engine warranty good bye if u try that

 

A friend of mine was working on a system that he tied into the Knock Sensor. Originally he had a headset hooked to it so he could hear the signal form the sensor for tuning.

He later installed a Red Warning light to it when the signal became over a particular threshold.

I do not feel that you will have any major problems, just basic kinks to work out.

All of my hostility in this thread was basically just to challenge the statement that Knock Was OK.

I do not bring this up to start it again, just to appoligize to you for doing it in your thread.

Another good tool is adding a WB02 and EGT.. These two are the most usefull things you can install in a modified car.

The WB02 will show you truly if your car is running Lean or Normal, Leaning out will lead to knock and is easily fixed once identified.

The EGT will let you know also about the state of your A/F and the overall condition inside your combustion chamber. Sadly these two happen to be the most expensive ones to buy.

 

If it is less than a second or 2 i'd say ok, if it is constant, NO WAY!!!! Sorry about your lack of good gas issues. Just add water injection, i'm going to before summer!